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Inner & Outer Tie Rods 70 Javlein

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 11:10am
Originally posted by ccowx ccowx wrote:

Seems there is two of us dealing with the same basic issues. I am also in the process of setting up my alignment on a 70 today.

I have the tie rod thing sorted out, but my steering wheel is 180 out. How do I turn that around? The rag joint only works one way, but the wheel does not seem to be able to be flipped around because of the horn assembly.

What am I missing here?

Thanks!

Chris


Pull the steering wheel with the wheels straight and turn the wheel to point correctly.

There should be a small mark on the wheel hub on the shaft opening for centering the hub. It should be at the 12 o clock mark.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 11:27am
Pardon my stupidity, but that is not coming through very clearly! The steering wheel is off, I took off the black plate and snap ring. The problem is that there is a small silver plate that puts the horn wire and plastic sleeve in one spot and I can not rotate it 180 because it only fits the splines on the steering shaft one way.

Thanks!

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 11:48am
Originally posted by ccowx ccowx wrote:

Pardon my stupidity, but that is not coming through very clearly! The steering wheel is off, I took off the black plate and snap ring. The problem is that there is a small silver plate that puts the horn wire and plastic sleeve in one spot and I can not rotate it 180 because it only fits the splines on the steering shaft one way.

Thanks!

Chris


Correct... actually you can install the cup 3 different ways, but only one allows alignment with the center cap.

Now I a wondering did the miss alignment happen once you removed the steering wheel or was it that way before the steering wheel was removed.

The center badge can be rotated but, there is a notch to keep it from rotating. Also to remove the badge to check alignment can break the plastic if not careful.

I have been in the same question with a 74 steering wheel as the cap is not in the same alignment as my 71 cap. So there are differences with how the notched cup is to be installed on various years.

Once you install the steering wheel to the shaft with spokes correctly aligned with wheels straight. Check how the horn button tab is to be in the clock setting. The notched cup can either be set at 12 o clock, 4 o clock or 8 o clock. If the horn center cap and badge require anything other than that, the badge needs to be corrected, assuming that someone changed a 71 horn center cap out with a later button if not original to the car.

I can post pictures of 71, and 74 differences in clocking for the aluminum cup, but it all requires the center cap to have perfect alignment with its badge or center button.

Hope you see what I am explaining.

Edited by 304-dude - Jun/24/2017 at 12:25pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 12:00pm
The issue is not the horn button, it is the spokes of the rim blow wheel. It is curved up like a smile, not down as it should be, ie the steering wheel itself is 180 degrees out.

What I am trying to correct is that some idiot in the past put the tie rods in with them adjusted all the way to the side so that I had one turn to the left and two to the right. That is fixed but now the wheel is 180 out! I assume the wheel was rotated in some fashion to compensate and position the steering wheel correctly.

I can not undo the rag joint apparently and the horn assembly inside appears to only fit one way. ???

Thanks!

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 12:27pm
My bad! I just went out and pulled the steering wheel again. The issue is that the plate that is held in place with the snap ring can not be rotated. That is the plate that engages the steering lock and all that. It is set up so that it is splined only one way on the steering shaft. I could grind off a tab from the plate and make it so that it will swap 180, but I hate doing stuff like that.

What am I missing?

Thanks!

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 12:31pm
If the past owner removed the rag joint and turned it 180 degree from the original fitment on the steering gear, then you may have an issue.

Though, when I modded my steering column, and removed the steering shaft end, I did not see any issue that kept the end from not being turned 180 degrees. I no longer have that end available, or is misplaced somewhere.

Don't know exactly, but I can search for a picture of a 71 on up steering gear coupled with rag joint to see if there is something about it that keeps the shaft from being flipped.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 12:37pm
You might have hit on something with the rag joint/steering gear thing. Let me check on that.

Thanks!

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 10:30pm
the steering BOX, internally, has a correct center position in the gear that rides in the worm. that's where centering starts. ignore the wheels at the start. the gear is "right" on the worm when centered, the pull-through friction is set at that one spot. the gear has additional clearance as you turn it off center. it's a really critical position.  count turns locks to lock, go half way, then there ought to be a notch or nick or punch mark on the steering rod up from the box

the steering WHEEL ought to be centered when the steering shaft is centered, but could be off if you pulled it and didn't put it exactly back onto the right spline. if it's not center punched etc you could find the center location and punch it and pull and reinstall the steering wheel.

this is really critical to correct steering. the car will drive terrible if its off. it will feel awful. steerign should be "tight" when centered and driving straight down the road. when you're in a turn the sector has a lot more backlash but it needs that when turning.

none of my car have rag joints, in addition to safety, they add an opportunity to misalign i guess.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2017 at 10:50am
So Einbeier, hopefully you made the show! I have hope for you because last night I spent about 2 hours doing trial an error to get mine aligned, maybe even for good. I did the lazy way and modified the locking plate to go 180 degrees. The rag joint was not coming off with any home tools, so it was that or wait until Monday and have the shop do it. I then tinkered with the tie rods until I got the wheel centered and the car not wandering. I will verify with a tape later today, but preliminary eyeball measurements look ok.

As a side benefit, I also got the horn working. First time I have ever had it work in 29 years of ownership! Did I mention lazy? Bad news is that all the dry steering seems to have created an air pocket in the PS pump, but hopefully that will work itself out.

Thanks!

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote einbier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2017 at 4:21pm
Well Thanks guys! Everything is up and running had a nice drive to the show. I am really suprised how close you can get it. Was driving straight as an arrow. And my new Wilwood 12" rotors and 6 piston calipers are doing a fine job of stopping. 

Thanks Jeff 


Thread done.
1970 Javelin Mark Donohue
1970 Hornet Shirley Shahan
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