Ignition key

You can remove the steering wheel to release the lock from the column.

Back in the 80s, I was able to make a key reading the stamped numbers on the tumblers. Just be careful to keep them in order, else when assembling, you may have the wrong cut done.

You may use a TSM to check how keys are set on the numbering system.

My original key was factory cut very shallow at the base with a large tip end, so after time it would crack or just twist off when locking or unlocking. Thus breaking off in the ignition. It definitely had an odd key number when it was coded.

You probably won't want to wait for it but if you can find any post 1969 AMC service manual it will tell you how to remove the lock cylinder.  I believe you need any key that will fit in the cylinder and then after removing the steering wheel and anti-theft locking plate you have access to the cylinder.  You need to insert a key in the ignition (any key that fits) and trip a little latch with a stiff piece of wire and remove the lock cylinder.  You can take the cylinder to a locksmith and get a key made.   If you have the original owner's manual for the car (not likely but possible) check the for the key codes in that book entered by the dealer that sold the car new.  Joe

My American, the ignition+doors are the same, (old 74 Ford was too). Pulled lock out of door, took to locksmith. Made a key in minutes. My opinion, for what its worth, is less work taking door apart than the steering column. Cheaper than having them come to you.

I don't know if the steering column in a 77 suburban is the same as a 71 Hornet as far as the ignition key cylinders are concerned, but many years ago I took my 77 Suburban to a locksmith because the cylinder had ge-sproinged, meaning a little spring came sneaking out. The cylinder was junk. The lock smith threaded a sheetmetal screw into the cylinder and attached it to a slide hammer. A couple of whacks later the cylinder was out, he cleaned out the little broken pieces inside and slid a new one in. Problem solved. That cylinder and new key worked fine up to the day I sold the Burb.

I'm not suggesting you should try that with your Hornet, but it did work for the Suburban.

Just did this on my 77 Pacer, bought a new lock set and keys for $15 off e-bay.