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I love Wendy's Frosty drinks!

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FSJunkie View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 2:28am


...except that is not a melted Wendy's chocolate Frosty. That is the oil I drained out of my 1984 Eagle 4.2L. It's about 1/6th water, coolant, or some other water-based junk. Will eventually separate out but it's emulsified there. 

I noticed it had two loose head bolts (literally completely loose) when I first got it two years ago, so I tightened them and prayed everything would be ok. I don't know how or why they were loose but they were. I then parked it in a field and forgot about it for two years. I woke it up a few days ago. Checked the oil and it looked fine but higher than normal. Checked the coolant and it was lower than usual. No big deal, I topped up the coolant and started it. It ran perfectly like it always has (seriously a really good running engine) before I heard the lifters start to clatter. That is NOT normal for this engine, so I shut it off and pulled the dipstick. Melted Wendy's Frosty. Ouch

Drained the oil. Gloppy Wendy's Frosty the whole way. Replaced it with clean oil with Seafoam and a new filter and ran it for a while to clean all that out. The lifters quieted right back down and it runs like it always has: perfect. Seriously this engine is very smooth, quiet, and a very strong runner. 

I don't think condensation from sitting did this. I think the head gasket is leaking at best and the head is warped or cracked at worst. So....looks like I get to pull the head off now. 

I was hoping I didn't have to take this engine apart. It is a 166,000 mile engine of unknown history. I know an engine of that mileage has some ugly things inside it that I'd rather NOT know about, but it always ran as perfect as could be, so my attitude was "don't f&#k with it". Do not open that can of worms. Well, looks like I am opening that can now. Hopefully I don't find too many ugly things inside. I'm figuring on a valve job, timing set, and maybe cam and lifters but I'm really avoiding pulling the engine out. 

So anyway. That's what I'm up to. Big smile As much as I like a good Wendy's chocolate frosty, I'd rather my car not make them. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 5:26am
Well you could sacrifice a radiator and put some block sealer in it but just changing a head gasket would be a better option. Also, isn't there a front left head bolt that extends into the water jacket and needs to have sealant on the threads when installed?

Up here we could expect something like that for not having enough anti-freeze in the coolant but not a factor down in Arizona is it?

Edited by vinny - Jan/09/2018 at 5:30am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 6:49am
I ran K&W block sealer (not radiator stop leak) in a little Daewoo I had bought my daughter 10 or so years ago. It started losing coolant internally and I thought it was a cracked head. No head available locally. So I decided to try the block sealer. Follow the directions to a T and it won't clog the radiator. It's silica based and has to harden. Flush thoroughly when done. You have to flush all the coolant out, run the sealer with just water, then flush it all out again, let dry, then refill with coolant. If you're concerned about the radiator disconnect the hoses and flush it some more.

This worked for about 8 months before it started leaking again. Found a head in a junkyard in Charlotte -- about 2.5 hours one way. Decided to pull the head first. Good thing, turns out it was just a deteriorated head gasket! If I hadn't been suspect of the head I'd have done that right away. I was rather impressed that it sealed a head gasket that long though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 12:48pm
Makes me wonder if it's a cracked block? Reason I say that it if the head gasket was leaking...it would leak in the cylinder....or possibly where it seals on the passenger side? But...Who knows? The 258 isn't known for head gasket problems.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 5:43pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Makes me wonder if it's a cracked block? Reason I say that it if the head gasket was leaking...it would leak in the cylinder....or possibly where it seals on the passenger side? But...Who knows? The 258 isn't known for head gasket problems.....


Lifter problems - absolutely.  Head gasket problems - you are correct! Not so much.

However, the wildcard in the scenario would be Was it a factory head gasket?

If not, who knows what mutton head was in there previously and was inept enough to not torque head bolts?  That is the right question, detective.


Some might not be aware that locally, I'm the goto-Guru of the Mopar 2.2 (and lesser extent 2.5).
Between the ones I've owned, family have owned, friends have owned (and they were VERY poopular around here once upon a time)  that I've worked on easily 50 and gotten to know them intimately. Giggitty.

I had a friend who's wife had this hunny of an '86 Turbo Daytona that kept popping head gaskets.  It got to the point that my friend could change them out in a few minutes by simply lifting the head, sliding a new gasket in and bolting it down.

It wasn't until I asked him one day:  "Are you replacing the head bolts with aftermarket or are you getting them from the dealer?"

His response:  "Why would I replace the head bolts?"

Mine:  "Uh, well, they are torque-to-yield bolts."

Him:  "What's that?!?" Confused

Me: "Single-use bolts, dummy." LOL

Granted, my buddy was a gearhead and generally knows what he's doing.  Classic Mopars most certainly can re-use head bolts.  The modern stuff cannot!  But nobody told him that! The whole time they owned that car I think it'd gone through 12 or 14 head gaskets.  It wasn't until the 15th one that I told them to bring it by my place and I'd do it properly.  They then sold the car thinking it wouldn't last.

Yeah, we saw that thing roaring around for 10 YEARS after they'd sold it.  Each owner loved it and they were hard on that little car.  It eventually toasted the Turbo from one owner, or several, not doing regular oil changes.  Though I'm sure a new Turbo and a new oil line and it'd have been up and running.

The moral of the story kiddies is that it really pays to know what you're working on.  We may know what we're doing - it's the previous owners we have to worry about!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by Fluffy73 Fluffy73 wrote:


Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

Makes me wonder if it's a cracked block? Reason I say that it if the head gasket was leaking...it would leak in the cylinder....or possibly where it seals on the passenger side? But...Who knows? The 258 isn't known for head gasket problems.....



Lifter problems - absolutely.  Head gasket problems - you are correct! Not so much.

However, the wildcard in the scenario would be Was it a factory head gasket?

If not, who knows what mutton head was in there previously and was inept enough to not torque head bolts?  That is the right question, detective.


Some might not be aware that locally, I'm the goto-Guru of the Mopar 2.2 (and lesser extent 2.5).
Between the ones I've owned, family have owned, friends have owned (and they were VERY poopular around here once upon a time)  that I've worked on easily 50 and gotten to know them intimately. Giggitty.

I had a friend who's wife had this hunny of an '86 Turbo Daytona that kept popping head gaskets.  It got to the point that my friend could change them out in a few minutes by simply lifting the head, sliding a new gasket in and bolting it down.

It wasn't until I asked him one day:  "Are you replacing the head bolts with aftermarket or are you getting them from the dealer?"

His response:  "Why would I replace the head bolts?"

Mine:  "Uh, well, they are torque-to-yield bolts."

Him:  "What's that?!?" Confused

Me: "Single-use bolts, dummy." LOL

Granted, my buddy was a gearhead and generally knows what he's doing.  Classic Mopars most certainly can re-use head bolts.  The modern stuff cannot!  But nobody told him that! The whole time they owned that car I think it'd gone through 12 or 14 head gaskets.  It wasn't until the 15th one that I told them to bring it by my place and I'd do it properly.  They then sold the car thinking it wouldn't last.

Yeah, we saw that thing roaring around for 10 YEARS after they'd sold it.  Each owner loved it and they were hard on that little car.  It eventually toasted the Turbo from one owner, or several, not doing regular oil changes.  Though I'm sure a new Turbo and a new oil line and it'd have been up and running.

The moral of the story kiddies is that it really pays to know what you're working on.  We may know what we're doing - it's the previous owners we have to worry about!
The 258 doesn't have torque to yield headbolts....I don't think.... I check any newer engine for torque to yield head bolts. I replace the bolts if so. I've not fooled with a mopar 2.2. But with the engine sitting and water goes in the oil...if the cylinder had water in it, it would miss...and hydrolock...... which is why I asked about a cracked block. But he says it runs goid... I had a cracked block in the one car, ran ok, but water in the oil....and it overheated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/09/2018 at 11:03pm
I'm not spending too much time worrying about what it might be because I'm about to find out pretty soon. Just a few steps from having the head off.

Somebody replaced the plastic craptastic valve cover with a finned aluminum one. Of course they buggered up some of the threads in the head and pasted it on with orange silicone. Predictable. One more thing I'll have to fix. I bet that is how some of those head bolts alongside the valve cover came to me loose: the moron previous owner loosened then during their "great valve cover adventure". It ran like that for who knows how long before I retightened them, so I'm betting that ruined the head to block sealing. Like I said, I'll be finding out for sure soon enough. 


Sad 4.2L. Cry I will make it better. Smile I have not decided what color to paint the head and valve cover when I reassemble it. The stock black is boring, so I may go with AMC blue. It will look pretty underneath all the emission plumbing. LOL

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/11/2018 at 7:14pm
Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

The 258 doesn't have torque to yield headbolts....I don't think.... I check any newer engine for torque to yield head bolts. I replace the bolts if so. I've not fooled with a mopar 2.2. But with the engine sitting and water goes in the oil...if the cylinder had water in it, it would miss...and hydrolock...... which is why I asked about a cracked block. But he says it runs goid... I had a cracked block in the one car, ran ok, but water in the oil....and it overheated.



I know the 258 doesn't - I never meant to imply that I did. I apologize if I came across that way.  What I meant was that my friend, who had built multiple Big Block Mopars and Small Block Chevy's was familiar with the classic iron but was not as aware when it came to the modern stuff. (modern also being a relative term, this was nearly 20 years ago).

I meant more that previous owners may not be as knowledgeable about our cars as we are.  Quite honestly, when I get a new car in; I treat it like the previous owner was a moron. I don't trust ANYBODY'S work until I double check it.  heck, when I was professionally spinning wrenches, I'd double-check my own work. If you look up the definition of "pedantic" in the dictionary, you'll see my ugly mug.

I've seen people build engines without ever using a torque wrench. Confused

I've seen people rebuild carburetors and leave out pieces. Angry

I've also gotten carburetors from supposed "professional" remanufacturers with parts jammed in with such force that the carb body is ruined. Cry

I refuse to patronize our local Hyundai dealership because on TWO separate occasions with two completely different Hyundais - I've had brake calipers fall off a day after a brake job.  Dead

I don't want to come across as overconfident or cocky, but every time I've put trust in somebody else's work, it's bitten me in the bum.    So nowadays, unless I've worked on it and made sure it's 100%, I just don't trust it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/11/2018 at 7:15pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

I have not decided what color to paint the head and valve cover when I reassemble it. The stock black is boring, so I may go with AMC blue. It will look pretty underneath all the emission plumbing. LOL


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/11/2018 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by Fluffy73 Fluffy73 wrote:


Originally posted by purple72Gremlin purple72Gremlin wrote:

The 258 doesn't have torque to yield headbolts....I don't think.... I check any newer engine for torque to yield head bolts. I replace the bolts if so. I've not fooled with a mopar 2.2. But with the engine sitting and water goes in the oil...if the cylinder had water in it, it would miss...and hydrolock...... which is why I asked about a cracked block. But he says it runs goid... I had a cracked block in the one car, ran ok, but water in the oil....and it overheated.




I know the 258 doesn't - I never meant to imply that I did. I apologize if I came across that way.  What I meant was that my friend, who had built multiple Big Block Mopars and Small Block Chevy's was familiar with the classic iron but was not as aware when it came to the modern stuff. (modern also being a relative term, this was nearly 20 years ago).

I meant more that previous owners may not be as knowledgeable about our cars as we are.  Quite honestly, when I get a new car in; I treat it like the previous owner was a moron. I don't trust ANYBODY'S work until I double check it.  heck, when I was professionally spinning wrenches, I'd double-check my own work. If you look up the definition of "pedantic" in the dictionary, you'll see my ugly mug.

I've seen people build engines without ever using a torque wrench. Confused

I've seen people rebuild carburetors and leave out pieces. Angry

I've also gotten carburetors from supposed "professional" remanufacturers with parts jammed in with such force that the carb body is ruined. Cry

I refuse to patronize our local Hyundai dealership because on TWO separate occasions with two completely different Hyundais - I've had brake calipers fall off a day after a brake job.  Dead

I don't want to come across as overconfident or cocky, but every time I've put trust in somebody else's work, it's bitten me in the bum.    So nowadays, unless I've worked on it and made sure it's 100%, I just don't trust it.

I understand. Been there myself. I'm picky myself. I've rebuilt a few engines. The one is a 350 chevy.. Been run hard, not had the oil changed, and has 100+k, and still running..it's taken 4 rear ends out....lol
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