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How to long term store iron parts?

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6PakBee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2017 at 11:20am
I clean up surfaces and then paint them.  A little stripper later and you are good to go.  I've been doing this for years with cylinder bores and crankshaft journals with good success.
Roger Gazur
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Photon440 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 12:08am
A few thick layers of Plasti Dip will keep things covered, and peel off later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RonFrancis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 8:05am
Do you have a name or link? Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401harry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 2:57pm
I like the CRC stuff too. Current favorite is the 656 which is the marine version of 556 which is actually called powerlube now. The 656 seems to cling a bit more and is thicker. I have also used the CRC Marine fogging oil and replace the adapter hose with a regular spray head. Really oily stuff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbgjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 3:02pm
I like Seafoam green.  I have freshly machined parts from 2007 that I coated, sealed and shipped overseas and then back again. Still look great today. Scrub it down with acetone and build.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by 401harry 401harry wrote:

I like the CRC stuff too. Current favorite is the 656 which is the marine version of 556 which is actually called powerlube now. The 656 seems to cling a bit more and is thicker. I have also used the CRC Marine fogging oil and replace the adapter hose with a regular spray head. Really oily stuff

I use the 6-56 aka Power Lube on Machinery in my Machine Shop that I don't use alot to keep everything from rusting, nice coating on fresh cast iron surfaces that lasts too.  If I am going really long term, I have a bunch of Aeroshell 5 I coat things by hand....but the only reason I use it....it was free and I got like 3 cases of it, turned obsolete for newer model aircraft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401harry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/18/2017 at 4:59pm
Just realized i was on my last can of 6-56..3 more on the way from Amazon at 8 bucks a can no tax free shipping....life is good
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 9:01am
IMO this question of how to store your parts is rather important so thanks for all inputs.

From what I've read and learned, corrosion begins to form instantaneously on most metal surfaces with exposure to oxygen.. eg: 'iron oxide' and 'aluminum oxide'

I like to treat bare iron surfaces with a phosphoric acid treatment like 'Oshpo' -brushed on sparingly (it will stain paint), let it 'work' for about three minutes, then rub it all off with a rag.

This'll leave a more gray color with slightly shiny appearance.

Then I like to wrap the part in several sheets of newspaper, then put it into a plastic bag, but making sure the bag is not fully sealed to let the part 'breathe' (otherwise I think the plastic bag will 'sweat' with ambient temp changes... sometimes I'll poke a few holes in the plastic bag to reduce chances of sweating)

I think the newspaper insulates the part from potential moisture condensation inside the plastic bag and absorbs moisture away from the object if there is... makes like a 'barrier paper'... which is a technique picture framers use to protect a fine work of art inside a semi-sealed picture frame's airspace (sometimes done in 'museum framing')

The 'cheapie' nylon bristle brushes work best to apply phosphoric acid type 'rust killers' (more expensive 'hair' type brushes get ruined quickly by the harsh chemicals) To clean the brush I just rinse them in a bucket of water and use compressed air to dry the bristles...


This seems to work well for me, and when they are stored this way in a dry place, they seem preserved/not 'rusting away', the next time I open the bag to see the part... 

...and I don't have to re-clean any oily coating if want to use the part...

-I'm still cautious and curious to know more about what the phosphoric acid 'rust killer' does to a bare metal surface through microscopic inspection, so I don't really mean to give advice, but just to say what I do, and describe the results I'm getting...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401harry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 2:24pm
I would never use OSPHO on a stored machined part. OSPHO is primarily Phos acid acid and will remove or convert rust to inert iron phosphate through chemical reaction but will also etch clean metal which is good for paint adhesion but destructive to machined surfaces. When doing paint and body if I have to leave a section of bare metal I would rub it down with OSPHO to prevent flash rusting overnight but never for long term even indoors. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RonFrancis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/19/2017 at 3:05pm
My main concern is  brake drums and I have a spare rebuilt (not for sale) 196 OHV and at this point I have filled the engine with a lot of oil. 
The cylinders could have a little oil in them but I want to be able to turn the crank a few turns every few months to keep it shinny in there.  it's had a full rebuild and then the guys car burned up.  It will be my back up in case something major happens to the one in my car.Smile
Ron Francis
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