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Holley 1920 Questions |
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RTTComanche17 
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Joined: Apr/19/2009 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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 Topic: Holley 1920 QuestionsPosted: Jun/20/2017 at 12:19am |
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I'm having issues with the 199 in my '67 American stumbling (to the point of almost dying before it catches itself) when you give it throttle at anything faster than a snails pace. So thinking a bad accelerator pump since it idles fine and and doesn't seem to have any issues if you slowly step on the gas pedal. She starts right up after sitting for a week or more.
But before I order a rebuild kit, I would like some of your opinions on this carb. Should I change it because it will only give me trouble down the road? If so, this would be the time to do it. I'm on a pretty tight budget, so I can't buy an Offenhauser or Clifford intake, but I do have an old iron 2bbl intake from a '67 232 in the backyard (but no carb or linkage). I don't know how much effort and new parts would be needed for that. Or is there a better 1bbl to get? There's also some sort of aftermarket cruise control on the car that I don't think works so I'm going to remove that as well. It connected to the carb with what looks like an old ceiling fan pull cord. I'm a complete amateur when it comes to carbs. Basically, I need something reliable that will last me for a couple years. Eventually I will be doing a 4.0/T5 swap so this does not have to last forever. Carburetors are a black box of voodoo to me...
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1967 Rambler American #1 - junkyard rescue parts car
1967 Rambler American #2 - project car, but it runs!...for now... |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
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Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 12:35am |
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carburetors *can* be voodoo, but stock, just careful work will suffice. as long as the casting isn't corroded or hammered or abused! they can go bad from corrosion and become uprepairable. but you can tell visually after cleaning. if it its all smooth metal, discolored is OK, then its fine. *minor* pitting in fuel bowls is generally OK, but its not OK in the venturis, air horns, etc.
the voodoo in carbs involves surface emulsion and subtieties of liquids in capillaries at near zero pressures, but 99% of that is taken care of by the precision cast metal. float level is critical, as is clean, unmolested jets -- NEVER drill or poke wire or sharp objects into precision holes in anything brass as a rule of thumb. you nick 'em and they change characteristics. metering rods that ride in jets should be smooth, etc. gaskets good. and dont force anything (though sometimes screws do stick hard, that's a dillema for you to solve :-) there's nothing wrong with those old 1 bbl Holleys and Carter YFs. they actually perform well in their flow range. the YF has a tendency for the body screws to come loose after a couple years, i've noticed. you can't have fuel too clean. fuel injection fuel filters arent overkill. TWO filters in old cars is a fine idea. there's a lot of crud in old tanks unless youve cleaned it. dirt clogs carbs, transient dirt causes weird symptoms. care and cleanliness, pretty much. and get a TSM and follow it, or rebuild sheets. very often the ID tag on the carb has critical model info for which stupid little ball to use from the kit. eg. float level is critical, 1/32" diff can be noticable -- and also a means to tweak the settings of an otherwise unadjustable carb.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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mixed up
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Joined: Jun/16/2015 Location: Monroe mich Status: Offline Points: 2178 |
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Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 1:26am |
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take your time take pictures if needed pay attention when taking it apart and follow the spec on adjustment is my advice there realy not hard to do
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69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd 80 ford fairmont |
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pacerman
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 8:55am |
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Read about the carb in your TSM. Understand the circuits and what they do and then get a good carb kit and a quiet clean place to work and a gallon of soak-it type carb cleaner and rebuild it yourself. If helps if you can disassemble,clean and then reassemble the carb in a day or two so you don't forget the little nuances of how it goes back together. Adjust the float level, etc. in accordance with the instructions on the rebuild kit. Rebuilding one will only seem strange the first time or two. After that, it will be easier. The 1920 is a pretty good carb and does not present some of the difficulties of some of the other single barrel carbs. A source of compressed air to blow out the passages helps too. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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RTTComanche17
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Joined: Apr/19/2009 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 4:07pm |
This is what I was hoping to hear. Didn't want my first trip into the world of carbs to be with an overly complicated pile of garbage carb. I'm definitely able to learn and am very good with small parts and precision work so the rebuild itself should go smoothly. Now if only I had known that you needed more than the Model number to order the rebuild kit... Car is being stored about 45 mi away from where I am. Also, apparently, floats are extremely difficult to come by and are basically discontinued (from the few online places I've looked for rebuild kits), so here's to hoping I don't need to replace mine... They are some sort of plastic and can absorb fuel over time as they get older from what I've been able to read. |
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1967 Rambler American #1 - junkyard rescue parts car
1967 Rambler American #2 - project car, but it runs!...for now... |
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pacerman
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Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 5:44pm |
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The Holley 1920, 1908 and 1904 are basically the same carb. There is some difference in the float and needle assembly but in my experience at least some of the kits come with both types of float and needle. There's a good chance you won't need a float, but if you do need parts, check out Mike's Carburetor Parts (online) and I think Carb King is still in business. Anyway you could do a google search on Holley single barrel carbs or some such and find a vendor or two. There is a new manufactured replacement carb for the 1904 and 1920 if you want to go the deluxe route with all new parts. I don't know where it is made but I think there are usually some on Ebay. I think you did say budget was a priority though so rebuilding will probably be a solution.
BTW the way the Holley 1909 is an entirely different carb and was used on some flathead Rambler motors. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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Kenosha62
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Joined: Jan/24/2009 Location: Sacramento Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 3:51pm |
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From experience I've learned to always take the carbs apart in a large "bus tray".
Any large shallow tub (mine has 6" sides) will work it's easy to keep it clean and when any unknowns pop or spring out they won't roll away  I know it's obvious but it took me a couple of oops to learn to prep everything BEFORE I cracked a carb open. I don't learn fast but I do learn eventually  |
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pacerman
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Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 5:48pm |
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Another caution: no kids or cats in the area while there are carburetor parts on the workbench.
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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tomj
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Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 10:08pm |
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HA! lol, listen to Kenosha62 and pacerman! wise words.
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomslik
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Posted: Jun/25/2017 at 7:48am |
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a couple of things not mentioned is, lock the doors so nobody bothers you and turn off the cell phone;)
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67 american 290/4speed |
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pacerman wrote: