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Help!!! fresh rebuilt won't start.

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Jay68SST View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 7:49am
Originally posted by madmax madmax wrote:

how did you adjust your valves/lifter pre load? are your rocker arms adjustable or just torque down style?



Stock hydraulic lifters, and stock torque down style rockers.
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Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 9:16am
I meant to say, what do the compression test numbers look like for each cylinder?

If the compression is correct, you probably can rule out cam or valve related issues and focus on spark and fuel.

What does the spark look like? Blue/white, orange, etc and how far will it jump?

Is there fuel? Maybe run the throttle by hand and make sure the shooter squirts smoothly. Also pull the fuel filter and see if you can shake and rust dust out of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by Greyhounds_AMX Greyhounds_AMX wrote:

I meant to say, what do the compression test numbers look like for each cylinder?

If the compression is correct, you probably can rule out cam or valve related issues and focus on spark and fuel.

What does the spark look like? Blue/white, orange, etc and how far will it jump?

Is there fuel? Maybe run the throttle by hand and make sure the shooter squirts smoothly. Also pull the fuel filter and see if you can shake and rust dust out of it.

Going to checking all that on Sunday. I am pulling off the valve covers, taking out the spark plugs and turn by hand to verify my cam setting is correct. I am also going to check the compression of each cylinder also.  Once I verify everything I am going to set #1 cylinder TDC on compression and drop the distributor in pointed at #1 spark.  Going to follow the manual that I have and advance the distributor until the points just barely open.  Before I put the plugs back in I am going to set the timing with a timing light, and check the spark and re-gap all the plugs

As for fuel, I am running an electric fuel pump and it works fine, I have it remotely setup running out of a 5 gallon fuel can.  The carb was tested and tuned on another engine (MOPAR big block 400) and basically removed from one and put on the other.

Hopefully this weekend it will fire and run, if not it is coming out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomslik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 3:51pm
any chance the distributor gear is slipping on the distributor shaft?
roll pin broke+/or missing?

67 american 290/4speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/12/2018 at 4:11pm
I’m wondering how your fuel pump is wired. Wonder if there’s an issue there. I use an oil pressure switch in mine. Closed under 10+ lbs pressure and closed under cranking. What I mean to say is that power from the starter solenoid goes to the normally closed terminal and triggers the fuel pump relay while cranking then power from the ignition switch run terminal goes to the normally open terminal that closes when there’s fuel pressure and powers the fuel pump relay.

Not 100% necessary to do that, but maybe look at fuel pressure and your pump wiring in general. Are you using a bypass regulator and return line? Does the pump fill the bowls and hit your desired pressure then maintain pressure under cranking? Look at your carb setup as well. Though this does indeed sound like a timing/valve issue, is your secondary throttle stop screwed in too much and allowing your secondaries to draw in too much air while cranking? There are a lot of little things that could be affecting you, but generally if your carb will give you some fuel and your timing is close and you have spark, it should at least run.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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madmax View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madmax Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 1:24am
Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:

Originally posted by madmax madmax wrote:

how did you adjust your valves/lifter pre load? are your rocker arms adjustable or just torque down style?



Stock hydraulic lifters, and stock torque down style rockers.

chances are your lifter preload is too much and holding the valves slightly open thus reducing the cranking compression needed to fire the cylinders.
i have built lots of amc engines as well as others, i have always needed to shim the pedestals to get the proper lifter preload when using other than stock cams.  crane and comp both sell kits for this. you will need to have the intake off to do this correctly. iircc the lifter preload should be .040 to .060
its a little hard to measure but if you watch the plunger on the lifter as you tighten the rocker arm bolt it should just start to move down from the retainer on the lifter body plus aprox a 1/4 turn. 
hope this helps 

here is a link on setting preload

http://cranecams.com.au/pdfs/pp1110c.pdf


Edited by madmax - Jan/13/2018 at 1:44am
American Heavy Metal

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70 amx black
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69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 10:49am
Did you install the cam gear with the cam key in the oil slot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 2:13pm
Hopefully the fuel can is not on the ground with the pump above it. It would be struggling to prime the pump. Just my 2c from what I've read.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 2:45pm
Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:

 

Going to checking all that on Sunday. I am pulling off the valve covers, taking out the spark plugs and turn by hand to verify my cam setting is correct. I am also going to check the compression of each cylinder also.  Once I verify everything I am going to set #1 cylinder TDC on compression and drop the distributor in pointed at #1 spark.  Going to follow the manual that I have and advance the distributor until the points just barely open.  Before I put the plugs back in I am going to set the timing with a timing light, and check the spark and re-gap all the plugs

As for fuel, I am running an electric fuel pump and it works fine, I have it remotely setup running out of a 5 gallon fuel can.  The carb was tested and tuned on another engine (MOPAR big block 400) and basically removed from one and put on the other.

Hopefully this weekend it will fire and run, if not it is coming out. 

NO! STOP. This is wrong. If you do this your points will be on the back side of the cam in the distributor. Your timing will be off by a mile. You have to RETARD the distributor so the points come up onto the front of the cam. Remember when the engine is running, the cam comes up to the points which are stationary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/13/2018 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by tached_out tached_out wrote:

Originally posted by Jay68SST Jay68SST wrote:

 

Going to checking all that on Sunday. I am pulling off the valve covers, taking out the spark plugs and turn by hand to verify my cam setting is correct. I am also going to check the compression of each cylinder also.  Once I verify everything I am going to set #1 cylinder TDC on compression and drop the distributor in pointed at #1 spark.  Going to follow the manual that I have and advance the distributor until the points just barely open.  Before I put the plugs back in I am going to set the timing with a timing light, and check the spark and re-gap all the plugs

As for fuel, I am running an electric fuel pump and it works fine, I have it remotely setup running out of a 5 gallon fuel can.  The carb was tested and tuned on another engine (MOPAR big block 400) and basically removed from one and put on the other.

Hopefully this weekend it will fire and run, if not it is coming out. 

NO! STOP. This is wrong. If you do this your points will be on the back side of the cam in the distributor. Your timing will be off by a mile. You have to RETARD the distributor so the points come up onto the front of the cam. Remember when the engine is running, the cam comes up to the points which are stationary.

 
Instead of "advance" I should have said "rotate". This just get it close.

I have a 1968 AMC Service manual and that is how they say to set ignition timing. Page 4-28 and 4-29. I am going time with a timing light by cranking the motor over without starting (spark plugs will be out, no fuel either).


Edited by Jay68SST - Jan/13/2018 at 3:45pm
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