HEI Distributor on a 232

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   Just installed it and there's a  3/32 gap at the clamp. Washers are OK? I ve also heard of  grinding down the end of the shaft. That idea doesn't really appeal to me.

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69gladiator Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/15/2013 Location: stratford,ct Status: Offline Points: 242	Post Options Post Reply Quote 69gladiator Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/31/2014 at 11:43am
	Just installed it and there's a 3/32 gap at the clamp. Washers are OK? I ve also heard of grinding down the end of the shaft. That idea doesn't really appeal to me.

Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/31/2014 at 12:19pm
	I think you'll find that the interfence is at the radius where the shaft tapers down, and not at the end of the shaft. You can carefully grind that radius area back (maintaining the shape of the original radius) until it's just slightly undersized compared to the width of the tip, and then the original machined tip surfaces will still be the contact point between the dist shaft and the oil pump. Also note that the I6 gears will fail - the things I've found that will really eat them up: 1) Tight distributor shaft endplay. Don't succumb to the temptation to reduce the clearance between the gear and the distributor body. 2) A high volume oil pump. It's more load than the gear ever was designed to handle. In practive the stock oil pump is plenty even with the bearing clearances set to the wide end of the tolerance. 3) High RPM (say 5500+) in conjunction with the above two. If you're racing you're probably going to have all three things in play, so it's smart to keep some gears on hand and check/change it often. I think it might be wise (and pretty cheap) to cryo treat the gear, but that wasn't available back when I was racing regularly.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/31/2014 at 2:25pm
	A washer or two will be fine. If you have a 3/32" gap I'd use a 4/32" (1/8") spacer. A washer big enough to go over the dizzy body there should be roughly 1/8" thick anyway. A bit more won't hurt, you just need AT LEAST 3/32" to prevent any binding.
	Frank Swygert

69gladiator Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/15/2013 Location: stratford,ct Status: Offline Points: 242	Post Options Post Reply Quote 69gladiator Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/31/2014 at 3:24pm
	Latest update: The dizzy finally wiggled all the way down. It appears flush to the block. Do I need the washer anyways? The shaft on the new one is the same in length as the Prestolite. One other thing, do I need to increase the spark gap?

billd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894	Post Options Post Reply Quote billd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/31/2014 at 7:11pm
	Don't ever use washers to make up for a distributor not seated against the block. Some distributors may require extending the flat up the shaft a bit, some do not. It can vary. But if it didn't go against the block then you force pressure against the oil pump and cause troubles. I've seen pumps and distributors destroyed by folks not willing to make sure the distributor goes against the block, then removes it and installs the gasket. You want it to have a bit of clearance so fit the distributor with no gasket, make sure it goes against the block, pull it back out and then install it with the gasket. That will give you the proper gap. If you use washers you are shoving it against the end of the oil pump. Also don't gap the plugs over .040. Anything more is just not necessary. If you go too far you load the system and can cause the spark to seek easier paths, burning out coils, etc. I left mine at .035-.040 I've even installed a few with no increase in plug gap as a properly tuned engine in good physical condition will do just as well at .035 or so. These aren't high compression high speed engines. A 6 will never ever use all the power of an HEI anyway. there's simply not the compression, speed or load to utilize all that they can put out and any ignition system only puts out what's needed to fire the plug and no more.
	http://theamcpages.com http://antique-engines.com

carnuck Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Mar/31/2010 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 3942	Post Options Post Reply Quote carnuck Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/01/2014 at 2:16pm
	On the spark gap, it depends what plugs you run. The Autolites in my '82 Eagle made more ping (head was shaved before I got it), even though there was more power, so I switched to NGK BKR6EKs and run .045 gap. Starts instantly and no more ping running at 12 degrees at idle. Passed the sniff test for the last time without a cat too.
	Got an Eagle? http://forums.amceaglesden.com

69gladiator Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/15/2013 Location: stratford,ct Status: Offline Points: 242	Post Options Post Reply Quote 69gladiator Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/01/2014 at 4:23pm
	Thanks. I will pull it out and reinstall with out gasket. If it does not fit agimst the block, I will file/grind the end of the shaft. It seems ok but I will take billds advice.

69gladiator Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/15/2013 Location: stratford,ct Status: Offline Points: 242	Post Options Post Reply Quote 69gladiator Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/02/2014 at 4:00pm
	Double checked fit and it is fine. Fired it up and it runs better. Is it me or is the timing mark on the pulley hard to find? Timed it by ear and it seems fine. We were having a hard start when engine is hot situation before and its still there. It was hoping that the old coil was not liking heat .Any thoughts?

amc67rogue Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/05/2008 Location: Phx. AZ. Status: Offline Points: 1578	Post Options Post Reply Quote amc67rogue Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/02/2014 at 6:00pm
	The timing mark is not very big , mark it with white chalk. Use a timing light.
	Keith Coggins 67Rogue X code

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/02/2014 at 6:29pm
	I always timed by ear. That way you get the most advance you can safely run with the gas you are running. The hard start when hot could be timing related, but check the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Is it steel? If so change to a rubber line or insulate the line. Modern fuel evaporates much easier than fuel made 20 years ago, and will vapor lock easier.
	Frank Swygert