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Heater control valve 64 Classic

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dogbone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Heater control valve 64 Classic
    Posted: Aug/20/2015 at 9:43pm
Pulled this apart and it's obviously going to need some attention. Are they fixable, or just replace them? This one seems to have a temp control mechanism. Looks like it's frozen, not sure if I can get it free, or even if I did if it would leak.

Is this molded hose still available?




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dogbone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2015 at 9:57am
anybody have luck referbing the heater valve or finding a molded hose like this?

NAPA sells a spring that can be put inside a 5/8" hose for bending, just not sure if it would bend this much or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocklandrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2015 at 12:14pm
There are vendors out there that can rebuild Ranco heater control valves. I had one done from my '56 Olds years ago. I think it would be easier to have it rebuilt than to find another one. If you have a local independent auto parts store take the old hose along with you and see if they can match it with something close. They might be more willing to do some hunting around than one of the big chain stores. With them if it isn't in the computer they can't help you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2015 at 12:23pm
Just this morning stumbled across the hose, it's an exact match. Kennedy shows a rebuilt kit for a heater valve, not sure if it's for one of these or not. Guess I'll need to call. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/19/2015 at 7:33am
Those thermostatic valves (won't open until water is hot) are notorious for leaking. Of course they are usually 30+ years old before leaking... yours is at least 50 years old now, so I wouldn't say it was a "bad design" or anything! Most replace that valve with an in-line valve for a 5/8" heater hose. I don't have the part number, but you can get one from NAPA by looking in their catalogs. I think it's a 60s Chrysler application that I'm using. It just goes in the hose, doesn't bolt to anything. There are plastic 80s Honda valves that work (I have no other info on those) that bolt to the firewall. One fellow screwed a plate over the hole where the Ranco valve was and screwed the Honda valve to the plate.  I didn't like the look though -- obvious modern plastic valve. I had to make some more mods to the blower cover on mine, so cut the "tower" that holds the Ranco valve off. My cover was warped and allowing the squirrel cage blower fan to hit the sides, making noise. I cut the center out and made an aluminum plate to fit and carry the motor. Left about 1/2" around the edge to bolt the plate to. Warping problem solved! Painted black, it looks like it could be factory. Some other makes have a plate with the motor that comes off in a similar fashion, though I can't unbolt the plate to remove the motor on mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/19/2015 at 7:50am
Well, even if it doesn't leak it's probably not going to work like its supposed to. The components are pretty stiff from rust etc. so they are going to require some work. A swap out to a simple valve would probably be the best. I've got an old Nissan that's been junked I'll check and see what it's got on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dogbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/28/2016 at 8:59pm

Rubber valve inside the tube. I couldn't think of anything to replace it with, so I put it back. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/29/2016 at 6:34am
You can get repair kits for the valve. I never really liked these things. The cable controls flow, but is paired with a thermostatic control. I think there is a little flow when the cable is opened all the way, but the thermostatic part prevents full flow until the water is hot. The idea was to provide a bit more consistent heat. By restricting water flow until the water is hot you should get a little faster warm-up of the heater, as the water stays in the hot block a bit longer. It's really only a minute or two at the most though. To me it was a problem that really wasn't a problem, mostly because you don't really notice a slightly faster warm-up. Saw T-shirt I really liked: "I'm an engineer. I invent complicated solutions for problems you never knew you had."   Too true in many cases!! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/29/2016 at 11:09pm
Heater system is completely different down under but I just used a 5/8 universal heater tap(cable controlled). 
I picked it up from my local family run auto parts store.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/01/2016 at 6:04am
That's what I always use. You guys didn't get the Ranco thermostatic valve in the 63-66 model big cars? Hmm... is the heater box on the lefts die of the car? If so, that would explain the different setup, but could have still used the Ranco valve...

Is the owners manual different? I'd think it would be, maybe even printed "down there". If you run across a spare (or one on-line/scanned in) I'd like to have one.
Frank Swygert
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