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Headlight / Wiper Switches

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Bandana View Drop Down
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    Posted: Mar/22/2017 at 2:17pm
Need some thoughts / experiences.  On my 70' AMX, I had the dash overlay and cluster out last week replacing bulbs, installing new speaker / bracket and switch bezels. After getting it back together my wipers now don't work (they did) and my right front blinker doesn't work when the headlights are on. Not sure if I had this issue with the blinker before working on the dash.
Anyway, putting the headlight switch back in was a real PITA as you all probably know and I wound up man handling it pretty bad trying to hold it under the dash while getting the damn threaded piece started. Don't doubt that I messed something up. My question is - what it the easiest way to check the wiring on these switches. The darn heater / fan controls obscures the wiper switch, both of which obscure the headlight switch when looking up under the dash making it impossible to see anything. Do I need to take the overlay and cluster back out to check the wiring - only to knock something else loose going back together again?? What a bad design by AMC!!!Censored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2017 at 7:38pm
I suspect that the sheet copper grounding strap that connects the wiper switch to the headlight switch fell out of place. This provides a ground path for the wiper switch through the headlight switch body. Be sure that the black ground wire is reattached to the tab on the back of the headlight switch. The strap slips over the threaded shaft on the wiper switch and is sandwiched between the headlight switch body and the dash. The bezel nut that secures the headlight switch secures it.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bandana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 6:54am
Thanks George. Didn't know there was such a copper strap. Very likely that it was not on the switch when the threaded shaft went back in.. I wish there was a way to get at everything under there. Trying to work up the courage to pull the dash overlay and get back at it. My hands and back are starting to heal from Saturday......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 6:59am
On 70 Javelin/AMX dash that copper strip is mechanically fastened to the dash structure, not like 68/9 where it is "loose" piece......they made it pretty "murphy" proof, no matter if you had Vacuum or electric wiper option....FYI.  Those dashes are just really bad to work on.  The best things I have found that help is to remove the steering column and the front seat, so you can lay under the dash and see, better feel where things need to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bandana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 7:31am
Good to know on that strip. As hard as it is to get that light switch installed I figured trying to keep the copper strip in the equation would make it a real bear. If the strip is there maybe its just a loose wire. I have the seats out of the car. Wouldn't even try working under the dash with them in... Way too old for that monkey work. LOL Removing the steering column sounds like a pretty dramatic way to gain some work space - but I'll have to look at it. I sure can't get at anything right now...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 401MATCOUPE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 10:00am
Steering column out will give you so much room!!  2 screws hold the lower column closeout cover in place.  The rest is easy, two wiring harnesses under dash, two nuts at steering box, 2/3 bolts at firewall (pull the carpet back to see, 2 nuts under column at dash. That is it. If you still have interconnect rod between column and linkage just forward of firewall...that is the only really tough part...but once it is disconnected, a friend on the outside to help you guide the end of column out without catching firewall of flange.  trust me, I have done a lot of 70 AMX/Javelin and this makes huge difference.....I am doing a 70 AMX dash this weekend to help out another AMC'r.


Ross K. Peterson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bandana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 5:16pm
I'll look into the steering column removal. Thanks for the tip!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bandana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2017 at 7:39pm
Ok, so after a week of cool down I got back at it today and took the dash back apart to fix the electrical issues.  First observation:

There is no copper strap between the HL and wiper switch. The headlight switch has a designated ground terminal (spade terminal) on it that looks good.

There was a black wire connector that was off the wiper switch. After reconnecting it the wipers work  - on slow speed only!!! The TM shows 6 wires going to the wiper switch. Brown from the headlight switch was ok, black to the washer pump is not there, the blue black pair were present (black was the one that was off) and then there should be a red / yellow pair.... Well there is the red but no yellow and no sign of it anywhere...  Tried jumping the wire at the wiper motor to the switch but it did not create a fast mode... At a loss here????

Most significant issue at this point is the front right blinker will not work when the headlights are on... The blinker works fine with no headlights. The read works fine and the left side front and rear work ok.  Put the headlights on and the left side is fine, the right rear is fine but the front rear does not work????  The front right light does blink much brighter than the left side when it does work without the headlights? Any thoughts?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2017 at 7:53pm
Let's see here... flasher relay needs power and ground to flash. If headlights are on, and flashers fail to flash. Either the ground is not properly grounded, or a parking light / turn signal light is bad.

Older cars with flashers would stop flashing all together and stay on when a bad bulb failed. You may have to look at all your bulbs when parking lights are on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2017 at 5:54am
Something's not right with the wiring. Brown is the 12v power feed to the wiper switch but it doesn't come from the headlight switch, it comes from the ignition switch ACC terminal which is fed from the ACC terminal on the fuse block. The single black wire is the 12v feed that goes to the windshield washer pump when you press the wiper switch in to activate the windshield washers.
Check and follow the wires coming from the wiper motor that are within that black sheath. You must have the red/yellow as well as the blue/black pairs . I'm also almost positive that the ground strap between the headlight switch and the wiper switch must be present as it provides the ground path for the wiper switch body. According to Ross that ground strap is secured to the back of the instrument panel so it shouldn't be missing. If it IS missing you will need to create a ground path for the wiper switch. A large ring lug slipped over the threaded part of the switch shaft before it's placed in the dash should work. Of course the ring lug will need to have at least a 16ga wire attached to a good grounding point. It does not need to ground to the headlight switch, just any good grounding point somewhere in the dash area.

As far as the turn signals go you're going to need to check the grounding path for the both the head light, the parking/turn housing and the side marker circuits. On the 1969 models there's only one grounding point and it's on the passenger side. 70's may be different. Follow the black wires back to the grounding point which on 69's is in the radiator support area.

If the various ground circuits around the car are compromised or missing all sorts of odd electrical issues will occur as the current return path will typically be by returning backwards through another component in an entirely different and unrelated circuit.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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