TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > Electrical - non engine
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
Author
Message
Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: May/13/2013
Location: Escondido CA
Status: Offline
Points: 95
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Headlight switch problem for the true electrical g
    Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 3:52pm
First let me say that this is NOT a problem with my AMX. Well...sorta.

If I solve this problem, I can finish up the loose ends on THIS project and sell it so that I will have the funds to finish my AMX! So, PLEASE bear with me...

I'm trying to convert the hide-away headlights on my '67 Cougar from the original vacuum motors to electric.

On one end I have a simple headlight switch. On the other end I have two linear actuators (One per headlight door...) each with a built-in limiter switch that extends/retracts by reversing polarity of the two wires.

What I need is a means of operating the two motions using the headlight switch.
Somewhere in the middle I need to place two of these:


This was put together several months ago by my old boss and good friend Jerry. Since I am very electrically challenged I asked him to show me how to install it in the car. He asked me if I was actually ready at that point and I  said well, no. He told me he would help me when I was actually ready for it. Now I'm ready but I'm about 4 months too late as Jerry passed away in December. So, now I'm reaching out to some of the most prolific and brightest auto electrical minds on the internet. I can really use your help...

BTW the relay parts he used were NTE R14-11D10-12 & R95-110

Brian
(Cornelius Rambler)


Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Offline
Points: 4820
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 4:24pm
Off topic, the best electric system for head lights were on my 65 Riviera. Both lights opened together synchronised by a shaft system very much like a windshield wiper transmission.

The only difference is length of rods and the motor was the same used in power windows and seats. And hid in the confines of the bumper.

Since it was a one year production, you may never see every detail on setting one up, up close.

No need for timing just convert a ford wiper motor and modify the wiper transmission to use lever opening doors. Very simple and easy to maintain.

Problem with electic doors done by timers, is after time the doors require more time to open and to close by wear and tare on the motors, plus you get one eye open syndrome when a timing circuit fails.

I would use a simple two way slide switch to place swap power lead to motor, with ground when open. This way no timing contol is needed. Plus to close power muct be switched to what was originally ground to reverse the motor.

If you want a controller to time open and closing I made one... for my Honda Accord Coupe. It is VCM with a custom setup to make a manual performance intake manifold work without the ECU to control when to open and close. To open or activate the motor, a simple 12v signal is needed. To close, the signal is switched off. Once closed no power is sent to the motor, or motors. Very simple and effective. Plus the parts are easily obtainable at Fry's or Radio Shack, or a big distributor such as Digi key.

Can post my timing circuit to activate a motor or driver relay for more than one motor.



71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: May/13/2013
Location: Escondido CA
Status: Offline
Points: 95
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2017 at 11:31pm

"If you want a controller to time open and closing I made one... for my Honda Accord Coupe. It is VCM with a custom setup to make a manual performance intake manifold work without the ECU to control when to open and close. To open or activate the motor, a simple 12v signal is needed. To close, the signal is switched off. Once closed no power is sent to the motor, or motors. Very simple and effective. Plus the parts are easily obtainable at Fry's or Radio Shack, or a big distributor such as Digi key.

Can post my timing circuit to activate a motor or driver relay for more than one motor."



I'd appreciate it. While I'm still hoping that someone will see this and can decipher where my buddy Jerry was going based on the pix above, help of any kind is greatly appreciated!



Back to Top
Lyle View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: Jul/17/2014
Location: Ontario
Status: Offline
Points: 239
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 7:21am
Posted above are relays that I "assume" would be put on the headlight circuit to power the headlight cover motors. One relay double throw would be set up to to open and close depending if power from the headlights was on or off. The other two relays would power each motor and would likely have individual limit switches in circuit for determining open and closed. You need two motors and four limit switches as each side will drive at different speeds and eventually the system would have one side out of sink if you did not wire this way.
I believe the Riviera had one motor that used an internal AMP limiter to determine open and closed limits.
Hope this helps.
Back to Top
Lucas660 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Apr/16/2012
Location: Vic, Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 1043
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 7:59am
I assume that the actuators have only 2 wires? The limit switches should have diodes in series inside. The relays should change polarity depending if the headlamps are on or off. If you can verify the wiring for the actuators I could draw a diagram for you.
Back to Top
Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: May/13/2013
Location: Escondido CA
Status: Offline
Points: 95
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 1:02pm
Originally posted by Lucas660 Lucas660 wrote:

I assume that the actuators have only 2 wires? The limit switches should have diodes in series inside. The relays should change polarity depending if the headlamps are on or off. If you can verify the wiring for the actuators I could draw a diagram for you.

Thanks! And yes, to clarify, the actuator has two wires...YELLOW & GREEN.

Applying power to the YELLOW and connecting ground to the GREEN retracts the actuator piston thus opening the headlight door. Reversing and applying power to the GREEN and ground to the YELLOW extends the piston and shutting the headlight door.

Luckily, the 2" throw between the fully extended and the fully retracted actuator piston mimics the throw of the original vacuum motor rod. So, the preset shut off of the limit switch in either direction works just fine!

So there 'ya go. Thanks and thanks to everyone that has responded to this thread!

 
Back to Top
Lucas660 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Apr/16/2012
Location: Vic, Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 1043
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:02pm
This will work if you replace ignition with the headlamp feed. Stolen from a Hyundai forum but the same principle applies. You could run the constant 12v feed from ignition switched but you would have to make sure the headlamps are switched off before switching off the ignition.
Back to Top
Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: May/13/2013
Location: Escondido CA
Status: Offline
Points: 95
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:30pm
Back to Top
304-dude View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/29/2008
Location: Central Illinoi
Status: Offline
Points: 4820
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:31pm
Problem is you cant use your headlights when ignition is off. IIRC, the headlight switch should have a constant 12v source. That should be tapped to the motor drive relays. The output of the headlight switch should be what drives the relay switch to open the doors.

In principle the head lights will light up and activate the doors simultaneously. When the lights go out, the doors close.

Very safe and will work like the Riviera light setup and many other door type head lights.

Not familiar with the relays so I cannot say how they wire up, let alone how they interconnect with the open and close sensors you are using.


71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
Back to Top
Cornelius Rambler View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: May/13/2013
Location: Escondido CA
Status: Offline
Points: 95
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cornelius Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/24/2017 at 4:32pm
Thanks Lucas!

Question: The B+ is sourced from where?

Brian
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down



This page was generated in 0.078 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2012 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or