Headlight relay harness

     Anybody using relays to take the load off of headlight switches, dimmer switches, A/C switches, firewall bulkhead ??  I can build a custom relay harness to solve these problems. My headlight harness can be mounted under the battery box for a clean look, or anywhere you want to mount it. I'm retired so I don't do this as a business, just a hobby to stay busy. I have been doing mainly Mopar, But AMC is family.
      Anyway, I can't post pics till I have 30 posts, so message me if interested.  

Very nice, Bill.  Looks factory.  Joe

You shouldn't have the full Jeep PDC and ECM in the engine bay in the first place. The Jeep wiring bus is for a Jeep. The Eagle engine bay, especially with all the stock equipment is just way too cluttered to accommodate. I found it much easier to integrate the wiring into the Eagle harness and be done with it while eliminating redundant connections to and from the firewall. The only thing I haven't been able to get around to is setting up a Fr-IGN/SW bus bar to give +12v signal to whatever needs it when the switch is on. So far I think that's only going to be the fan controller, so I'll wire that in at the bulkhead connector.

The old ECM location seems to be the ticket for the new one. I threaded everything for that section and the OBDII diag through that one section of firewall on the passenger side. So now instead of hunting for a mounting location for the bulky computer, I'm using that likely inner fender location near the battery for a Flexalite variable fan controller. Your setup looks great but it's so busy I would never be able to get into anything common. Tuneups are already a nightmare with how tight everything is near the A/C pump but this looks worse. I would put a huge red plastic boot over the hot cable since that's really the only thing worth worrying about at this point. The rest is ace and makes me consider getting my cruise control working again, which I probably wouldn't do with the stock vacuum pig that you seem to be using. Come to think of it I haven't had mine hooked up in ages. I don't even have a body ground from the main cable. How many body grounds are you using? I count only three on mine:
• Combined engine ground @dipstick tube
• ECM ground behind wiper fluid bottle
• Primary firewall ground from bulkhead connector

lover boy wrote: Anybody using relays to take the load off of headlight switches, dimmer switches, A/C switches, firewall bulkhead ??

There should never be a load signal going through the firewall. I recognize this as a source of voltage drops for headlamps in some vehicles and my Eagle for some reason. I'm in the middle of eliminating this problem the hard way. Also updating all my lamps to LED/HID and the Eagle is the worst sore spot for this. The MPFI swap, manual swap and Jeep PDC minimization has gotten me to truncate that section of the harness to a small bus of mini relays for the IGN/SW, Auto-Shutdown and Starter solenoid commands. The only thing I haven't done is leave provisions for some sort of neutral safety mechanism and I'm starting to think it would have been best to leave it for clutch-out in case of attempted theft or actual safety since I plan on eviscerating my ignition switch for push-button. My only real concern is the proper circuit rating for high powered lights. The LEDs shouldn't consume much but I might be using dedicated inverters and I'm not sure how to go about integrating them. At the moment I'm considering running my foglamp qualifier circuit through the parking lamps instead of low beams in case I swap my foggers for some other lighting equipment and don't want low beams on. Does this make sense?


Edited by DaemonForce - Nov/19/2017 at 10:50am

All these years and all of the hundreds of people who have done conversions as I have and you are the very first to diss and suggest it's improper.

DaemonForce wrote: You shouldn't have the full Jeep PDC and ECM in the engine bay in the first place. The Jeep wiring bus is for a Jeep. The Eagle engine bay, especially with all the stock equipment is just way too cluttered to accommodate.

The jeep "wiring bus" is for anything with that engine and other items I chose to run through the pdc and PCM.

Since I have done this sort of thing since the early 1970s, since I was an early teen, I found it pretty easy, actually. And since there's really nothing "common" to get into, I didn't sweat much. Oil changes - made sure that stayed easy as far as filter access. I can get it from the top (both hands, actually, if needed) or from the bottom. I can even look over the PDC and SEE the filter pretty easily.
Dipstick - check - it sticks right up there but in 30K miles, going about three thousand to five thousand between (synthetic oil) even pulling the dipstick isn't a common thing. Tune-ups? Huh? On a 4.0? Naw, pulled the plugs twice in 7 years, mostly as I was curious. They are still like new. So what is there to access? Nothing. There's only a cap and rotor to the "distributor", and a sensor that rarely ever needs touching - even that's simple to remove, though - and you never have to touch it since timing is controlled via PCM. Drop it in, bolt it down, done. (I have two NOS spares anyway)

I had no real problems and people have said it actually looks stock/factory.
IMO - it's far far better to use new electrical parts that belong with the engine - and have the computer fully control everything from cruise control to voltage regulation, AC and more.
The computer controls my Eagle's AC as well. Can't do that with how you did it so you still have AC control, full clutch power at about 4 or 5 AMPS running into the cabin and through the switch and thermostat.
Since I ran mine through the PCM, that means the AC clutch power does NOT go through the firewall into the cabin. The AC switch and thermostat simply sends a signal to the PCM to trigger AC control. That means the stat and switch should last almost forever unless either fails for mechanical reasons.
My fog lights run via the PDC relay, the electric JEEP fuel pump is controlled via PDC, starter control, all of it. Even the NSS is hooked up via the PCM. 

Space was freed up by removing the intake heater relay, fog light relay and starter solenoid/relay. The cruise straddles some of the electrical stuff. My engine compartment is no more crowded than many cars now, and it's far more efficient. I have a proper dash "check engine light" or as Jeep called it, MIL light (I used to call the MIL the mother-in-law light as it nagged in the old days)

Heck, I even added power windows - and rewired them through relays to save load on the door wiring and switches, power locks - run via relays, so I can fix up my remote lock system.

But to say bluntly "I shouldn't have the full Jeep PDC and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) in place is totally baffling to me. It was EASY. Mounting was EASY - ok, the PCM was a bit tricky to figure how to mount something flat to a non-flat surface, but since the PCM never has to be touched and only needs air circulation to keep it cool, i hid it under the right hood hinge area.  I can see placing it behind the right kick panel may be an option but I was concerned about AIR FLOW......... maybe that's not a problem, but didn't want to wire it that way and then find out later after burning up a hundred dollar part. 
Now I have standard Jeep wiring under the hood for many things and have removed the LOAD going into and out of the cabin area.
AC - doesn't run clutch power inside.

Easy to use a headlamp relay. I use the one below on my 68 AMX. Easy to connect.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-35W-H4-9003-Halogen-Lamp-Harness-12V-40A-Relay-1-5m-Copper-Wire-Length-Kit/232505415506?hash=item3622671752:g:ZlkAAOSwgYVZzerr&vxp=mtr