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1965 classic v8 2 piece propeller shaft

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Hutch1969 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/13/2019 at 8:00am
Hello, I have a Rambler Classic with the 287 V8 and I’m trying to figure out how to separate the 2 piece propeller shaft so I can replace the center support bearing, or would it be easier to remove the rear coupler and remove the bearing from that end? It just seems that since the center bearing is located more towards the front of the splined shaft it would make sense to separate the shafts. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2019 at 8:41am
No; I would not expect that rear flange to come off the shaft

Is this another basketcase car that has been taken apart for many years?

IE: Are you certain the center carrier bearing must be replaced or is this just another excuse not to put the car back together (car's name is Humpty Dumpty?)

-please take no offense for second guessing your diagnostic

Yes; the splined area is where it must come apart.

I'd say it'd be good to at least locate a 'plan B' spare driveshaft just in case yours gets destroyed.

Two junkyards here in Texas should have one: John's Salvage in Seguin, Tx. and CTC Auto Ranch in Denton, Tx. -both junkyards have websites.

My first thought is, since it's stuck, and become a one piece driveshaft by corrosion formation (iron oxide/rust) I would begin to figure out how to make a spreading fixture that would use 'worm screws' to apply spreading force to the area while using a torch to heat the flange on the tubular portion. It may take a lot of heat until you can see oil bleed into the (cherry red/orange) slip yoke area. Even then, I expect it will be very difficult to pull the stuck splined area apart ...without some type of custom made spreading tool.

I think you are going to need a lot of 'good luck' to make this happen. IE: lots of patience and perseverance, trying one hundred different ways in order to get your desired result. IE: you must totally reject the idea of becoming defeated/giving up.

Tasks like this 'build character'. Lets see what other people will say....

...on second thought, it all might be easier if you simply cut the tubular portion in order to press out the splined shaft, then have the tubular section re-welded and rebalanced at a driveshaft shop (shop who works on Jeeps should know where to get the driveshaft re-welded and balanced)
 

 
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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Hutch1969 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hutch1969 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/14/2019 at 11:31am
Thank you for the response, and no the car is not a basket case! Lol! The original 287 is tired so I pulled it and found a rebuildable 327 which is currently at the machine shop. Since having to remove the entire driveline to get the motor out i figured I should have the transmission rebuilt also which is also currently at the transmission shop. So while having all this apart I decided to check the u-joints and upon inspection I noticed the torque tube trunnion was also bad along with the shaft yoke, the ball stud centering yoke that was cracked in several places along with the centering pin severely worn down. I have just received my torque tube trunnion kit, ball stud yoke, unjoints, and slip yoke yesterday. So I also looked at the center bearing whic the rubber surrounding (retainer) is still in good shape but the bearing doesn’t seem to spin freely and it kind of feels like it’s binding up a little when I spin it. So I’m thinking it just makes sense to take care of it now instead of putting it altogether and have it fail and have to take it all apart again. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2019 at 6:56am
Sounds like a plan!  Unfortunately, it looks like the center bearing on the two piece shaft isn't easy to get off. The TSM states that the two piece shaft is serviced as an assembly. In other words, the solid shaft appears to be a press fit into the tubular and doesn't come apart -- probably pressed to a certain length. The bearing doesn't come off -- as I said "serviced as an assembly".

So where does that leave up 53+ years later? If I were going to attempt to replace the bearing, I'd try to remove the slip coupler on the solid end. It's pressed on, but is a splined fit. Don't know what it would take, maybe take it to a machine shop and ask for ideas? You might want to call Galvin's and see if they have any advice. I know they sell a complete shaft assembly.

One final option -- have a full tubular shaft made. You don't need a u-joint at the back and you don't really need a CV joint at the front -- 56-62 V-8s have a single joint. I don't know what a drive shaft company does for the rear slip joint, but some people do have a tubular shaft made when the CV joint goes bad. Might want to take the shaft over to a driveshaft shop and talk to them. I suppose they could cut the slip joint off the solid shaft and weld it to a tubular end...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hutch1969 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2019 at 8:36am
Thank you, Farna for your response!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/17/2019 at 9:40pm
i would take it to a good, problem-solving, hot-rod- or antique-restoring driveshaft shop. Cooks Machine Works here in Los Angeles. they're both top-notch and reasonably priced. http://cooksmachineworks.com/

a place like that could disambiguate this for you. bring the thing to 'em and have them check it out.  i doubt it will cost you anything.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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