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Vintage Air install in 71-74 Javelin

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CHAR View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CHAR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/09/2024 at 7:06pm
This thread is a bit old but full of good info.  My 72 has original air on it (all of it).  If a clean out, dumping the sight glass and valve and sticking with the R12, and a recharge doesnt work, I'm going to replace/repair the dryer-receiver, maybe replace the condenser to the horz unit with a sanden comp.  Can I keep the evap. valve with the change in charge?  Also, I have the idler pulley and the alt and york unit with a single sheave.  Do I need the dual belt arrangement for it to work with the sanden?
72 Javelin SST P code 360/auto/AC/rear defrost /Go Pack/Polar White w blue cord interior.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/09/2024 at 7:13pm
I have a Sanden in my '72, with the a/c and power steering on one belt and the water pump and alternator on the other.  The compressor itself only has one belt on it, though it has a dual pulley so I suppose I could run two if I had to.  Might not hurt to do that as my single belt slips sometimes.




Edited by CamJam - Apr/09/2024 at 7:25pm
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2024 at 5:25am
Originally posted by CHAR CHAR wrote:

This thread is a bit old but full of good info.  My 72 has original air on it (all of it).  If a clean out, dumping the sight glass and valve and sticking with the R12, and a recharge doesnt work, I'm going to replace/repair the dryer-receiver, maybe replace the condenser to the horz unit with a sanden comp.  Can I keep the evap. valve with the change in charge?  Also, I have the idler pulley and the alt and york unit with a single sheave.  Do I need the dual belt arrangement for it to work with the sanden?
If it hasn't had a charge in it for a long time, do yourself a favor and replace the drier. It's most likely saturated and not functioning. Look for oil stains on the condenser. If there are, or the fins are coming off, you should replace it as well. That's what's going to make it work well. You might consider changing the hoses with new, barrier hose to keep the refrigerant in. Them old hoses are prone to leaking.
Yes, you can reuse the expansion valve as long as it functions. You won't know that until you charge it. The one in the 71 I did, worked just fine when I did it.

You're much better off running 2 belts with the Sandon compressor. As Cam mentions, it will slip with one belt. Replacing the alternator pulley with a double sheeve pulley should get you there.





The first picture was from my car when I added A/C. The second is from the 71. I didn't use the idler pulley. It would squeal when you first turned it on. If I were keeping the car, I would have used 2 belts because one isn't enough IMO. Plus, today's V belts are all junk. They simply don't last. Wooster Kevin has a 2 belt setup and has to replace them twice already in 5 years, because they wear down so quickly.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2024 at 7:27am
Not a Javelin, but I'm using the original expansion valve in my 63 Classic. It's charged with R-134a, but works fine. Also using the original evaporator and housing inside the car. The entire inside unit is original, but I'm running a Sanden style compressor with serpentine belt (4.0L) and a Chrysler LH parallel flow condensor with a universal drier. It all works well together. New hoses are barrier type. I wouldn't run 40+ year old hoses. I had to mate all the under hood O-ring fittings with the flare fitting inside, so had to have new hoses anyway. I do wonder if an expansion valve calibrated for R-134a instead of R-12 would work better.

The only thing that doesn't seem to work is the original temp control. It doesn't seem to make a difference where it is set. The compressor switched line runs through it, but I can't tell any difference when I move it. I only run the AC when it's over 80 outside, and the evaporator could be larger for the wagon, so it might be working. The AC was sized to make it more comfortable in the car, but it's not as cold as newer cars! Wasn't designed to be in the early 60s.
Frank Swygert
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