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fuel pressure

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Ramzilla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 7:40am
Good idea about return line. Only thing is that means I have to drop tank to hook up extra lines. Looks like a lot of undercoating around tank and straps. I looked inside with camera tank looks clean because of that I did not think I would need to drop and clean inside. No fuel inside since 1979. I did search about Bypass Regulators. Summit has one that has one inlet two outlets one return and one for gauge. What pressure electric pump would I need to push fuel back out the return line? Carbs only need about 5 to 6 lbs. Not sure exactly how extra pressure pump I need to use for returns. Also I saw post about Vent line so tank does not build up pressure. WOW a lot to think about. Thanks for input. Ramzilla     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheelz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 8:28am
You dont need electric pumps unless running fuel injection imo. I am running a fuel cell in the trunk to a Fram canister filter mounted to rear frame then 1/2 aluminum hardline to a Robbmc 550 mechanical pump. It feeds both carbs without issues or regulators or return lines
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 12:43pm
On the Holley web page they have a rather lengthy Carbureted Fuel System Bypass Regulator write up...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobsterfl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2019 at 5:53pm
Lots of great info here.  For what it's worth, I knew that my Javelin would be sitting for long periods of time, so I installed an electric Carter pump near the tank so I would not have to crank the engine too long.  The pump is wired to an "ignition on" source, so I simply turn the key to on for 15-20 seconds to allow fuel to fill the carb, pump the gas twice, and off we go!  I also installed a Mallory pre-luber oil pump for the same reason.  It also comes on with "key on" but has a self timer that shuts off after some number of seconds, and , yes, I can see the oil pressure come up on the gauge.  So, for cold starts, I have both the oil system and the fuel system primed and ready to go.  I don't believe Mallory makes this oil pump any longer, but there are some remote oil pumps on the market for turbo applications that might work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2019 at 6:25pm
When you get a chance let me know the routing of the oil lines on that pre-luber. And do you need to have check valves installed and where. I have a remote oil filter adapter that I plan on using so it would be easier to plum lines to pre-luber. Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobsterfl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2019 at 7:38pm
Looks like my reply didn't post so I'll try again.

I drilled a hole in the oil pan (rear of pan near the bottom) and soldered in a pipe fitting.  Then ran hard line along the passenger side pan rail terminated with a short piece of braided hose to the Mallory pump.  I believe the kit had some kind of check valve built in to prevent backflow.  Coming out of the pump another piece of braided hose to the oil pressure port on the block behind the oil filter.  I will try to take a couple of pictures and update this post in the next few days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2019 at 8:26pm
Thanks looking forward to pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2019 at 7:48am
Originally posted by 401fanatic 401fanatic wrote:

Fresh 401 modified and about 5 hrs on it now. When it sits for a while I loose fuel pressure prime. It cranks a very long time before I see fuel in my sight glass at the carbs.  New carter street strip mechanical pump. Once I get fuel to the carbs it runs great. Why am I loosing prime all the way back to the tank?


Question, which intake are you using.


My feeling is a HOT (over heated) intake heat stove is to blame.


This issue also makes for other problems on a hot day.


On a summer only engine I always recommend the exhaust cross over be blocked.
Gremlin Dreams
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 401fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2019 at 2:56pm
offy duel quad intake. Cross over is blocked. My starter isn’t working and I made the mistake of putting the cheap stainless headers on it which I will not reuse. Saving up for some Doug’s headers. Issue is not corrected yet. Working 6 days a week leaves no time for car. If I have to I’ll put an electric fuel pump on it. I’d just rather not have to. 
74 javelin 401 t-10 3.91 twin grip.
74 javelin 401 998 3.54 twin grip.                            
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2019 at 1:18pm
Have an electric pump on the 215 in my Land Rover. The ticktick type.
Edelbrock 500 carb on phenolic spacer.
Every time I switch on I hear it ticktick as it refills the carb.
 
On the 327 in my Ambo, I have an electric rotary. Hear it whine as it refills the Holley, then it settles down. Phenolic spacer, crossover closed, but it still does it.
Seems this evaporation thing is just the way it is nowadays.
 
Had an electric rotary on the Rolls-Royce as well. Didn't hear it, so I guarantee if you mount it on rubber bobbins, when the car is running you won't hear it.
 
Ivor
63 Canadian Ambo 990 V8 327
Lightweight V8 SIII
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