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Pinion Angle

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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/17/2018 at 4:17pm
Thanks !  for posting pics... No longer have my car... Disapprove and now I wonder...
Where it shows the way it does in that AMC Spec Book...
And iirc when I got under my AMX and checked, the Pinion was UP !...
So now I'm thoroughly confused what mine was / is and no longer have the car to go look ! LOL
Where I had it for 30 years and made multiple 1/4 passes with 26x8.5 slicks
I thought maybe I twisted Rear Hsg Tubes or perches or something...
Had the 3rd set of new leaf springs on it, new shocks, stock Torque Links set per TSM, etc
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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/17/2018 at 5:12pm
Originally posted by PHAT69AMX PHAT69AMX wrote:

Found this, puts it in understandable terms I think, and what I did was probably WRONG (bottom right),
but this does reference the phrase "Rear Pinion down 2 degrees no matter what rule"... LOL
Relative elevation of Trans Yoke and Diff Pinion seem to be significant factors,
and angles of course, and that information on my car I failed to collect or record...
Questionable memory is the top left diagram is how my car was stock... 

 


Sorry, the lower right made me go "HUH???" because that's how AMC shows it, and how my Eagle is set up and Merrell Axle told me my driveline angles were fine.
I spent a year or more going over all of this and have dozens of pages on the topic, documents, pictures, etc. from Spicer and others. 

When you replace the rear springs - leaf springs, that is - you cannot assume the place the axle mounts to is the same angle. Even if the height is the same, the arch is the same, all of that, the angle where the differential sits can cause it to be off.
Use commercial angle shims for adjusting as they are made for this purpose, don't slip, have provisions for the tie bolt, etc.

Jump rope? Really?

U-joint angles are critical - but you do NOT want zero - that will tear up joints.
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Someassemblyrqd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Someassemblyrqd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/18/2018 at 7:21pm
Picked this from you tube.  Angles are extreme but the point is well made.



Edited by Someassemblyrqd - Dec/19/2018 at 10:26pm
Greg E.
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Red Devil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2018 at 11:34am
U-joints work well in either a "Z" or "W" arrangement.  The "Z" arrangement, where driving and driven members are parallel, is what most car sites show as ideal ... and it works if the rear U-joint angle is well controlled with a linkage suspension and doesn't increase under load.

The TSM shows the "W" arrangement, which also works and may be better if the rear axle tends to rotate up under load, so the U-joint angle decreases under load rather than increasing.   Different suspension arrangements will react differently so depends on arrangement if "Z" is preferred over "W" .

In both cases, the driving and driven angles want to be the same, or very close, keep the angles small and a minimum of about 1/2 degree to ensure the bearings roll consistently to prevent premature wear.

Hope this helps, RD
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