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Proportioning Valve Placement

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 6:32am
But he is correct to a degree, and not only that, when you "called him out" he POLITELY noted that he had not worded his response well, and that he realized he may be sounding like a know-it-all.  Smart-*** replies don't do anything but degrade the entire list. If someone is wrong (especially if it's me!) please point it out and explain why you think they are wrong, as that helps everyone. Could end up just being a difference of opinion, but that's ok, at least those reading will know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 7:07am
I wrote an extensive article on AMC disc brake balancing systems in AMC Magazine, Issue #19, Summer 2011. Here is a summary of what AMC used for balancing and when:

YEAR(S)     SERIES        DISC BRAKE BALANCING DEVICE
1965-67    10, 80         Non-servo rear brakes
1967           01             Non-servo rear brakes
1968          10, 80        Non-servo rear brakes
1968-70     ALL            Proportioning valve only
1971-74     ALL            Three-way combination valve (pressure/metering/proportioning)
1975-76     ALL            Two-way combination valve (pressure/metering)
Early 77      10             Two-way combination valve (pressure/metering)
1977-78     ALL            NONE - Pressure differential only
1978         40 (4 cyl)    Two-way combination valve (pressure/proportioning)
1979        01, 60          NONE - Pressure differential only
1979       40 (6 cyl)      NONE - Pressure differential only
1979       40 (4&8 cyl)  Two-way combination valve (pressure/proportioning)
1979       AMX (6&8 cyl) Two-way combination valve (pressure/proportioning)
1980       60                  NONE - Pressure differential only
1980-87    ALL              Two-way combination valve  (pressure/proportioning)

Want more information on brake balancing theory?

Note that "pressure/..." actually means "pressure differential/...". Not enough room in the original chart to put it all in.

If you'd like to see the entire article send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it. It's three pages of text and one of illustrations, a bit much to post here!


Edited by farna - Nov/29/2018 at 7:24am
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 1:05pm
Very good, Frank. That makes it easy to keep track of the year to year changes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RTTComanche17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 2:16pm
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

oh and another thing most people miss when they put really tall rims on cars is that the brake rotor size needs to increase as well. the ratio of rim to rotor radius is a measure of how much leverage the wheel has over the brake -- large wheels have a longer lever and put extra load on the brake.

Great point! But, don't forget to add that *generally* a larger wheel also increases the rotational inertia and CG height as well. Brakes stop the mass of the car and the rotational inertia of all connected rotating components. Greater wheel inertia puts even more load on the braking system.
CG height impacts front/rear weight distribution under braking/acceleration. Too much change (under braking) and you may be able to lock the rear tires when before you could not due to a lighter rear end under hard braking. (ie. proportioning valve is no longer valved correctly for the system)

Just some more interesting thoughts! ...or down the rabbit hole we go?...

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1967 Rambler American #2 - project car, but it runs!...for now...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by RTTComanche17 RTTComanche17 wrote:

Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

oh and another thing most people miss when they put really tall rims on cars is that the brake rotor size needs to increase as well. the ratio of rim to rotor radius is a measure of how much leverage the wheel has over the brake -- large wheels have a longer lever and put extra load on the brake.

Great point! But, don't forget to add that *generally* a larger wheel also increases the rotational inertia and CG height as well. Brakes stop the mass of the car and the rotational inertia of all connected rotating components. Greater wheel inertia puts even more load on the braking system.
CG height impacts front/rear weight distribution under braking/acceleration. Too much change (under braking) and you may be able to lock the rear tires when before you could not due to a lighter rear end under hard braking. (ie. proportioning valve is no longer valved correctly for the system)

Just some more interesting thoughts! ...or down the rabbit hole we go?...


Yep... I added some info earlier tovmy brake upgrade about how much bigger wheels and tires and bigger brakes can be negative on weight and off the line performance.

The max size on disc is 13" using OEM specs, once you get into 14" and larger... The weight goes up a lot, especially on rotational mass.

Though my 18" rims weigh 2 lbs more than the 17" rims I had. The big difference is tire.  Though, the tread diameter is the same as stock. What makes it really noticeable is getting up into the 19" and 20" rims with 15" and 16" discs. Thats  if you can fit them proeprly in the arch or suspsension. Modernising does not mean better, just looks cooler.



71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:55pm
Originally posted by 71SC360 71SC360 wrote:

WOW! FSJunkie you've missed your calling... You really should be in politics!

lol. he might be a good administrator. he's good at cars too.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/29/2018 at 11:59pm
Originally posted by RTTComanche17 RTTComanche17 wrote:

Great point! But, don't forget to add that *generally* a larger wheel also increases the rotational inertia and CG height as well. ...  down the rabbit hole we go?...


INDEED, down we go! lol. it's a *system*, everything interacts! makes one appreciate the solidly decent job AMC (and OEMs in general) did with this stuff.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2018 at 6:23am
"Though my 18" rims weigh 2 lbs more than the 17" rims I had. The big difference is tire.  Though, the tread diameter is the same as stock. What makes it really noticeable is getting up into the 19" and 20" rims with 15" and 16" discs. Thats  if you can fit them proeprly in the arch or suspsension. Modernising does not mean better, just looks cooler."

I'm a bit surprised the larger wheels weigh more, but depends on what they are made of and the style. More goes into looks rather than weight savings. The original purpose for "mag" wheels was to save weight, but those originals were made of magnesium (hence "mag" wheels) at first and expensive, now they are all aluminum and usually weigh as much or more than steel wheels. The reason I'm surprised your bigger wheels weigh more is that hte rubber diameter is the same -- more wheel, less tire sidewall height. The rubber tire is usually a bigger weight contributor than the wheel.

"Looks cooler" is subjective! I don't mind the 16" wheels at all, 17 & 18 are getting a bit big on the old cars to me, anything over 18" just doesn't look right at all. You're showing your age in saying the big ones look cooler... but then maybe I'm showing mine saying they don't!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2018 at 7:52am
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

"Though my 18" rims weigh 2 lbs more than the 17" rims I had. The big difference is tire.  Though, the tread diameter is the same as stock. What makes it really noticeable is getting up into the 19" and 20" rims with 15" and 16" discs. Thats  if you can fit them proeprly in the arch or suspsension. Modernising does not mean better, just looks cooler."

I'm a bit surprised the larger wheels weigh more, but depends on what they are made of and the style. More goes into looks rather than weight savings. The original purpose for "mag" wheels was to save weight, but those originals were made of magnesium (hence "mag" wheels) at first and expensive, now they are all aluminum and usually weigh as much or more than steel wheels. The reason I'm surprised your bigger wheels weigh more is that hte rubber diameter is the same -- more wheel, less tire sidewall height. The rubber tire is usually a bigger weight contributor than the wheel.

"Looks cooler" is subjective! I don't mind the 16" wheels at all, 17 & 18 are getting a bit big on the old cars to me, anything over 18" just doesn't look right at all. You're showing your age in saying the big ones look cooler... but then maybe I'm showing mine saying they don't!!

Main reason my 18" wheels are a wee heavier is that they are wider and taller, with a wee more material in the spokes. 

From 27 lbs to 29 lbs is not that critical to me, it's when you put the added weight of the wider steel belted tire and big heavy brakes, its a bit of a juggle on balancing performance across the board.

I dropped the idea of using big truck axles for my 9" Ford rear, once I found Explorer 4x4 8.8 rear axles were so much lighter. I think they are just as light as a set of AMC axles and hubs, if not lighter.

Though the 14" rotors are very heavy compared to 13" and are a wee thicker but not much. I almost want to keep the 13" rotors just because.

I too don't like 18" and larger wheels on older cars... and it was a bit of tooth pulling to get myself into giving up my 17"  rims for the change to 18". Once I start on body rework for the wheel openings, I hope to make the wheel and tire combo look more reasonable.

Mostly my larger wheel / brake change up is for the performance gains with wide sticky tires, and to push the boundary of making my car almost as modern as current Mustangs and Camaros, outside of electronics to control things, like EFI and stability control.

I hit my limit as for any other changes, not for the fact of being able to fit, more or less, because i dont see any benifit in going bigger. Once you see the steep curve with larger wheels and brakes start to flaten, then the money is about showing off or making ever so smaller gains.

With all the changes to wheels and brakes being out on my own one of a kind, there will be a lot of brake balancing tests for proper function. I learned that long ago with adding bigger drum brakes when I swapped my rear from a Coronet. The extra drum shoe size made the rear a bit touchy compared to stock. Not a great issue, until you got into a panic stop. My trick in fixing was to use the best pads up front and cheapy segmented and riveted shoes in the rear. Simple enough for my driving at the time.






71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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