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Bleeeding brakes |
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Samuelsc360 
AMC Apprentice 
Joined: Aug/19/2017 Location: Chesnee SC Status: Offline Points: 145 |
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 Topic: Bleeeding brakesPosted: Sep/18/2018 at 4:43pm |
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I recently converted my manual disc brakes on my 75 Hornet to power using the entire system from a 77 Hornet. I have an NOS booster, rebuilt master cylinder and used distribution block. My problem is that I can't get any fluid through the lines either by pumping the pedal or by vacuum pump. And no I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder. I've been doing brakes for 47 years and have never had to bench bleed the master. Any ideas.
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1971 SC360
1973 Ambassador Sedan 360 1973 Hornet X 360 1973 Javelin AMC 401 1975 Sportabout X 258 |
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67RogueX-Code
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Jan/21/2009 Location: Sylvania, Ohio Status: Offline Points: 1302 |
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Posted: Sep/18/2018 at 5:24pm |
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47 years? 53 years here... go bleed the master cylinder, and chalk it up as having learned something new.
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Bob Wilcox
67RogueX-Code |
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purple72Gremlin
AMC Addicted
Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16611 |
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Posted: Sep/18/2018 at 6:01pm |
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40+ years, and I always bench bleed the MC.....
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THE MENACE
AMC Addicted
Joined: Nov/04/2008 Location: So. California Status: Offline Points: 4438 |
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Posted: Sep/18/2018 at 6:12pm |
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Only about 51 years here! Assuming you also installed all new brake lines in that 48 year old car than I would agree with 67RogueX-Code. "Bleed the master cyl." Then bleed the right rear, left rear, right front, and then the left front being sure the fluid is topped off as you go. |
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Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX" Still Owner: SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE) 70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed 70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's car) 72 Gremlin Autocross Project. |
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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Posted: Sep/18/2018 at 6:39pm |
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The stoplight switch is different for manual verses power brakes. The power brake stoplight switch has a lower tension spring in it. Using the manual brake stoplight switch with power brakes may result in no stop lights. Switches for cars with cruise control also have extra terminals coming off them to disengage the cruise when the brake pedal is pressed. You may have a plugged differential pressure switch, or what you called the distribution block. All it does is compare the pressure in the front and rear brakes and shift a shuttle valve inside if there is a large pressure difference to light the warning light on the dash. They plug up sometimes. |
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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Llewdrac
AMC Fan 
Joined: Feb/14/2008 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: Sep/20/2018 at 4:11pm |
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Here's something to check... did you check that your rubber lines were ok? Reason I ask is that I recently went to do mine on a Javelin that had been sitting for years, and the rubber lines had sealed shut where they're swegged to the steel. Same symptoms as you describe; couldn't get fluid through for love nor money. I'm now fully rebuilt, but struggling with some sorta issue; a power disc-brake Javelin should stop on a dime, and mine isn't :P
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69ambo
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Joined: Dec/16/2017 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Posted: Sep/20/2018 at 4:21pm |
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I'm having the same problem with my 69 Ambassador! Everything is new bench bled master cylinder eliminated the pressure diff. valve and still no fluid anywhere. PM me when you get yours working cause I have ran out of things to try!
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Posted: Sep/20/2018 at 5:24pm |
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The first thing is, always bleed the master.
The second is don't believe that a NOS master/power boost combination will work as expected even when advertised as direct replacements. In both cases, try setting up bleed tubes on the car. If you don't get fluid then the boosted pin is not set or the mismatch of NOS parts just does't work. You can end up at the other end of the scale also with today's NOS parts and have too much brake, no feather. Been there, done that. Factory original rebuilds always seem to work the best.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Sep/20/2018 at 8:56pm |
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Make sure there is clearance - meaning that the pedal rod isn't pushing on the master cylinder piston and if power brakes, adjust the rod so that the master cylinder piston can come back FULLY. Too often lack of fluid out the lines when bleeding is because the master cylinder was replaced and there's just enough difference and no one adjusts the rod to ensure that the master's piston can FULLY come back with a tad bit of clearance. If the rod is pushing the piston forward at all, it can cause a ton of bleeding trouble.
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Samuelsc360
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Aug/19/2017 Location: Chesnee SC Status: Offline Points: 145 |
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Posted: Sep/21/2018 at 6:36am |
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According to the TSM, the rod isn't adjustable on the 77.
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1971 SC360
1973 Ambassador Sedan 360 1973 Hornet X 360 1973 Javelin AMC 401 1975 Sportabout X 258 |
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67RogueX-Code wrote: