Big Nut Axle

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   Hi! Anybody got a idea where to find a pinion seal for this? Car is a '64 American Wagon. OR anything that would work? Just need to stop it from marking it's territory. Thanks in advance.
Perk

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graewolf Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/25/2012 Location: Richmond Va. Status: Offline Points: 135	Post Options Post Reply Quote graewolf Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Big Nut Axle Posted: Sep/06/2018 at 10:03am
	Hi! Anybody got a idea where to find a pinion seal for this? Car is a '64 American Wagon. OR anything that would work? Just need to stop it from marking it's territory. Thanks in advance. Perk
	Americans, 65 Convertible, 64-65 Wagons, 64 220 2Dr, 66 2Dr Hardtop..... They follow me home!!!

RebelRay Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Dec/14/2012 Location: St. Louis, Mo Status: Offline Points: 1504	Post Options Post Reply Quote RebelRay Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/07/2018 at 2:10am
	Apparently available at Kennedy American, but pricey. Nobody makes them anymore. See the bottom of page 1 of this discussion for part numbers. Good luck! http://theamcforum.com/forum/model15-twin-grip-pinion-seal_topic72648.html
	Click here to check out my 65 Classic Wagon build thread!

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/07/2018 at 9:07pm
	The only other thing to do is get creative. If the dust shield is still on the nut take it off. It's just crimped on lightly, and most of the time missing. Then it gets fun. You would need to find a seal that will fit good over the pinion shaft, then get a piece of tubing to fit the outside diameter. Another piece of tubing will be needed to fit the ID of the diff, or OD of the old seal. Then you need to fill in the gap. You also need to make sure the seal clears the pinion nut, it sticks out a bit from the housing. Nothing any machine shop couldn't do, but in the end I bet the same cost (or more) as the seal from Kennedy (last reported as $65). If that is an NOS seal, spray it good with silicone (not WD-40 or something like that, make sure it is just silicone), or wipe well with a liquid silicone lube. That should rejuvenate it enough to last a while. The good things about making an adapter are you get a newly manufactured seal, not a 10-20+ year old one, and if it ever needs replacing again (it really shouldn't...) you can get a cheap new seal.
	Frank Swygert

graewolf Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/25/2012 Location: Richmond Va. Status: Offline Points: 135	Post Options Post Reply Quote graewolf Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/08/2018 at 10:05am
	Thanks guys! Guess I'll get in touch with Kennedy, while I try to design something along the lines of Franks suggestions. I wonder if after I get all the measurements my buddy at the exhaust shop could build something. I think I can come up with something Thanks again..... Perk
	Americans, 65 Convertible, 64-65 Wagons, 64 220 2Dr, 66 2Dr Hardtop..... They follow me home!!!

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/08/2018 at 10:15am
	I think I'd start with exhaust tubing, then go to thin wall DOM if nothing fits snug. The real issue is the seal must be exactly centered. Too much run-out and it will always leak a little.
	Frank Swygert

graewolf Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/25/2012 Location: Richmond Va. Status: Offline Points: 135	Post Options Post Reply Quote graewolf Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/08/2018 at 10:40am
	Thought with that pipe expander machine we could adjust the pipe to fit. Start with finding a seal that will work and go backwards from there to the housing. I have two of these so once I get one right I'll try building a couple extras for future use..... But need to keep this one mobile, though NO POWER, (Flat head), I still use it to haul small items..... Perk
	Americans, 65 Convertible, 64-65 Wagons, 64 220 2Dr, 66 2Dr Hardtop..... They follow me home!!!

Trader Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881	Post Options Post Reply Quote Trader Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/09/2018 at 7:43am
	Silicone is good but there are some formulations that will deteriorate some seal materials. If you use it, read the label and ensure that it states rubber, plastics ... compatible. For older seals I find Vaseline the a good assembly lube. It's already petroleum based. Just my preference if the seal material is unknown.

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/11/2018 at 11:20pm
	i was lucky enough that mine never leaked, when i pulled it out and replaced with a Mustang axle. though i haven't done this, my plan was to find a seal that fit the shaft and not worry about the housing portion. then pull the old bushing and not damage the press-in part. chop the protruding part off. cut a disc of thin steel (20 ga) to overlap the chopped insert, but plenty of clearance of the shaft. just tack weld the disc to the insert. slip the new seal over this. will seal but not be attached to the steel you've placed over the insert. using Permatex High Strength Ultra Gray (ONLY!) to attach the seal to the steel crap. it doesn't require a lot of strength there. as long as the seal is concentric on the shaft (slipped on and assembled in place, it will be) square enough (it will likely be) there's simply not a lot of rotational force on it. and that very particular silicone is very strong. BRAND NAME ONLY!
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com