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68 amx wiper motor |
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spoilergt
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/03/2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Posted: Aug/03/2018 at 7:17am |
Ok i need help again with my install, as i mentioned before when i bought my 68 amx it came in boxes with parts mixed from other 69,70,71-74 AMX's and javelins parts, i'm trying to install a wiper motor problem is i have 2 vacuum motors and 1 electric, my wiper arm transmission is for vacuum motors, i would like to convert to electric wipers and i have the wiring harness from APD installed already, the wiper switch i have turns clockwise and moves a cable in and out also in a box and not the dash, my question here is how to know if its for vacuum wiper or electric and how does it connect to the wiper motor, i'm know that i'm going to need the proper transmission wiper arms to connect to the electric wiper because the shaft is a different size, if i stay with vacuum wipers then i need to change the fuel pump to the type with the vacuum port, i prefer electric set up. can somebody take a close up picture of the wiper switch from firewall to wiper motor if possible. also if you have what i need to complete it i would buy it. Thanks
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ramblinrev
Moderator Group Joined: Dec/28/2008 Location: Wisconsin Status: Online Points: 11473 |
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Sounds like you have a vacuum 'switch' which won't work at all with the electric set-up. The electric switch hooks up directly to the wiper motor wire harness which comes through a hole in the firewall. So, sounds like you need the electric switch, and wiper transmission, and arms. Put a WANTED ad below, and someone will chime in! Good luck. Paul
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74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384 70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981) |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6614 |
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Ron, I'm pretty sure I have a 68 (small post) wiper transmission in my collection. I'm just not sure if it's for vacuum or electric - yes they are different. I had a quick look in the garage and can't find them at the moment, but they are there. I'll have a more thorough look. I also have a couple of electric motor cores that need will need to be rebuilt. I had one rebuilt by Dave Bass and it is a work of art. billd also rebuilds them, but I have no personal experience with his work. The motor comes with the electrical harness - it's not part of the main harness- and feeds through the firewall plate. The switches are either for the vacuum system, which is a mechanical device, or electrical, which is an electrical device. I don't have any spares. If you have a complete vacuum system, you can get the "motor" rebuilt by Peter Stathes. I also have a vacuum wiper fuel pump core if you need one. It's for a 69, which is different from 68, but will work. It depends upon how close to correct you want the car to be. Any parts you need, you can have, just drop by. Let me know, you have my email. |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6614 |
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I found the wiper transmissions. One is the small post type, but it is for vacuum wipers - the posts have the return spring on them.
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Check with Rich C or a few others here - Bill F., Kevin S., etc.
GOOD cores can be restored for $180.00 - if you need a plate, or other hard parts, that's extra. The price is dependent on the core being complete and not pitted and having a mounting plate. If you need the eccentric parts, that's extra as well....... (washers, clips, spring, nylon cam, etc.) NO sandblasting! I don't sandblast the parts because you can't get back to the original type plated finish once you sandblast. You can't sandblast these and get a proper finish, it totally changes the surface of the substrate. (Some other people blast the parts.) Blasting leaves tiny little pits that reflect the light differently once the parts are plated. Even glass beads can change the look of the aluminum gear housing. All screws and fasteners are plated (unless pitted, then they are replaced) Motor frames are cleaned and prepped inside as well so they plate inside the motor frame. I also plate the pole shoes so they won't rust inside the motor. Each motor is tested for proper operation and park angle set to AMC/Prestolite specs. Zinc used for anodes is certified 99.99% pure, all chemicals come from an international supplier of plating chemicals. Anodes are bagged to prevent rough plating, plating solution is run through two filters 24/7 to help prevent roughness in the final result. Current for plating is controlled to the hundredth of an amp by a programmable plating rectifier. Nothing is shipped out so the parts can't get lost in shipping or in a shop out there somewhere. If your motor frame is restoreable, you get the SAME motor frame back with the correct date code and model number. Edited by billd - Aug/07/2018 at 10:34pm |
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Steve_P
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Status: Offline Points: 3760 |
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I bead blast just about everything. Then wire wheel, vibratory polish, etc- and it plates beautifully. I have pictures that look like the above.
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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You go ahead and do whatever........... but I'll start by saying your items will NOT look like mine in person. The camera simply cannot capture the differences and in fact my photos don't show the true texture and color.
My wife and I found that out long ago - a photo of her quilts no matter the camera, unless it's a high-end camera, do not capture what the eye does. It's even worse with these plated finishes on steel. The human eye uses light differently - thus the ability to use LED lighting with much lower luminosity than other lights because of the USABLE lumins of the LED. Same for camera. I'd bet yours are more "slick" or smooth than the original factory finish - I'd bet on it. And maybe you didn't notice my wording - look again - I said I do not SANDBLAST (meaning no black media, no sand, no aluminum oxide, etc.) Bead blasting can be done with the right media, right pressures, and right nozzle and not really impact or change the steel (much) - aluminum, that's a different animal. You can't blast and wire brush the aluminum parts and get that exact like-new finish back. Wire wheels burnish the metal - close the pores and actually MOVE material on the surface. The original parts - the wiper motor frame, or shell, was a dull gray, slightly rough to the feel, not at all like it had been sanded or smoothed. Dull gray, no shine, not slick. The original steel mounting plate was stamped steel - imagine a sheet of gray steel being pressed. There may be some spots a bit slick, stretched, etc. but it wasn't really shiny and if you rubbed it, it would not have a slick or totally smooth feel - semi-gray, maybe some areas with some shine, the edges and curves. They would have imperfections due to the processes used to make that shape. (My father worked where they made similar parts, stamped steel parts, huge presses that took sheets of steel and formed them like that) Then the parts were cleaned and plated. Not sanded, polished, taken to a wire wheel, but chemically cleaned and plated using the methods available to them - which was not the same "bright zinc" of today. I can make parts come out with a high-sheen, very bright, very slick, almost like a mirror - they weren't able to do that back then. I have shown that via speaking personally with chemists and people who plated in the 1960s So the steel stampings and motor frames were gray, for the most part, not slick and totally smooth. The plating reflected the texture and smoothness of the substrate for the most part - not as fine-grained as we can do today. Once you change the texture of the substrate - you change the texture of the final product, the look, feel, color effects and so on. I have proven that over the years by prepping parts in different ways - I have plated wiper mounting plates that I bead blasted 1/3 of it, use a wire brush (carefully) on part, and no mechanical means of cleaning on another part, and done them with more aggressive wire wheel treatment, etc. and plated them - so you can see on the exact same piece the exact impact each has. My finishes often mimic the originals more closely than what others do because I prefer to avoid mechanical means of cleaning. Are you removing ALL existing zinc? When I plate, the base metal is pretty much the same finish as it was when it was plated decades ago - the surface of the steel is as close to as it was when new as I can get it. None of these bare steel parts were polished or slick before they were plated. They were DULL, not real slick to the touch. There was a certain texture to the motors, the plates maybe a bit more smooth dueo to the rolling processes involved and the presses. But you do whatever you want - I'd bet when compared in person next to each other, they'd look different to the human eye and FEEL different. I've taken apart many many dozens of used and NOS wiper motors and strive to get as close as possible to the original finish and have worked with plating professionals and chemists. So bottom line, do yours as you wish and I'll follow my methods. but I do NOT want to receive blasted parts, or parts run through a wire wheel, to work on. I want them virgin, please don't send parts that have been blasted or taken to a wire wheel.
I can fix 'em but it's extra work if they have been media blasted other than with MILD glass beads under low pressure. Not sure why you seem to follow all of my plating posts and contradict my methods - they work, I never said you did it wrong but you seem to keep suggesting I am wrong in my preferences and methods. Edited by billd - Aug/08/2018 at 9:11am |
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