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Control Freak subframe connectors?

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mstrcrftr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 10:04am
bill, weld thru primer is made specifically for that purpose.  it is the final corrosion protection for the weld and surrounding area. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 12:09pm
Weld-through primers are generally a zinc-based product that is applied to the mating surfaces prior to welding. When the weld is performed, the zinc liquefies and flows into the weld-pool, protecting the weld from corrosion. ... It is important to note that weld-through primer should not be used on aluminum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 3:50pm
Originally posted by White70JavelinSST White70JavelinSST wrote:

Weld-through primers are generally a zinc-based product that is applied to the mating surfaces prior to welding. When the weld is performed, the zinc liquefies and flows into the weld-pool, protecting the weld from corrosion. ... It is important to note that weld-through primer should not be used on aluminum.


Very true.  also note that absolutely nothing that is used on steel be used on aluminum..  such as grinders, sandpapers etc.  cross contamination will cause structural problems with the welds and the finishing..   Our shop was one of the first in the USA to repair the all aluminum audi A8's when they first came out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 4:50pm
Tell that to the welds I've seen with surface rust shortly after. The theory is fine but in reality, some of that zinc burns away - remember the warnings about welding and cutting metals coated with zinc......  There's not enough zinc in a layer of primer to totally protect, plus, the zinc itself will oxidize very fast - it's why zinc MUST be treated after you plate something with it otherwise it becomes white and spotty with zinc oxide. 
I must work fast when plating - once I pull something out of the plating tank the zinc will begin to oxidize very quickly - you'll see a yellowish-tan color start to appear, so I have to dip it in bright dip and then passivate it quickly.
Once the passivate is gone with time and atmosphere years down the road, the zinc once again oxidizes.
Yes, it is indeed rather self-healing in that the zinc, as long as ANY is there, will protect the steel.
But you can't rely on that long term because the zinc will eventually disappear. 
I can show some welds done using the weld-through high-zinc primer that did show some signs of surface rust. 
I can also take some pictures of the horrible appearance of zinc I left on my tool box - how white and spotted and almost hairy it looks after about a year. Pure zinc, certified 99.99% pure. 

At any rate, I would never personally rely on the zinc primer for protection without doing more as well because I would never be sure that primer got to every single nano-bit of that weld. It would definitely depend on the weld, the heat, the metal being welded and so on. 
I fixed a couple of pin holes after doing the patch welding in a floor recently and you can bet no zinc got to that. 

But hey, I agree, I have pictures to show that I used the primer suggested! So I do believe in it and believe that it does help so I also advocate using it. I just won't stop with that......  ;-)
Call me anal, paranoid, whatever, I want to know that in 20 years it's still good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2018 at 5:37pm
OR...you could avoid all the rust and ground clearance issues and install your subframe connectors inside the car like I did.  For a track car, or a car like a 2-seat AMX or Gremlin, the loss of the rear footwell is inconsequential. And yes, it does work.

73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2018 at 11:04am
I wouldn't rely on weld thru primer as the only rust preventative coating either., unfortunately I didn't state that either in my last post. That post was a copy from an explanation of what weld thru primer is.
But it should protect the weld for a long enough time to prep it for a better primer or a sealer.

The only "primer" I know of that has any life to it at all is a two part epoxy based primer.
I've used "cold" galvanizing coatings (basically paint) which appears to work pretty good.

Even then there's no guarantee that it will remain unscathed, but the chances are better


Edited by White70JavelinSST - Jul/24/2018 at 11:11am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2018 at 11:49am
Thanks for clarifying that, white - it makes me feel better! Seriously, I found it hard to imagine that we were that far off, or I was reading you totally wrong or my head wasn't able to convey to my fingers what I was really meaning either. 
In other words, well said, I agree, good points, etc.  ;-)

(Not that I'm a welding expert by any stretch of any imagination, even my own, but I try to study and learn)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2018 at 12:15pm
Got your back Bill,
I haven't experienced everything in my 64 years of life, but I know when a guy knows what he's talking about and that Sir is you.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2018 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by 73Gremlin401 73Gremlin401 wrote:

OR...you could avoid all the rust and ground clearance issues and install your subframe connectors inside the car like I did.  For a track car, or a car like a 2-seat AMX or Gremlin, the loss of the rear footwell is inconsequential. And yes, it does work.


Gremlins had a rear footwell?  Oh, that was a seat back there?
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