1964 Classic 660 voltage reg.

If it comes to it - I can rebuild or restore the alternator or for that matter run it on my bench and test and adjust the regulator with the alternator.

I'll grab the specs for that setup, I believe I have it in PDF already, if not, I have it in the huge Prestolite book I have that shows that setup - out in my shop. 

Gee, I was just in BC - Vancouver. Beautiful (but HUGE) city.  And I live only about 6 hours from Chicago.

HOWEVER, one thing you can do is a quick, simple test to see where things stand "basically".

With a decent volt meter (even a $20 meter from Walmart, etc. would do) you can start the car, let it warm up a bit under the hood, and check the voltage at the battery with the engine running a fast idle - to about 1500 or 1800 RPM.
For simple voltage drop checks, test the voltage at the battery terminal of the regulator, the output terminal of the alternator, and at the battery. They should all ready almost the same, may vary a fraction but very very little.
Ground the negative lead of the volt meter and leave it grounded and move only the positive lead of the volt meter to the battery +, alternator output (large orange wire) and to the battery connection on the regulator (the one by itself, I suspect), that way you are using the same ground point for each test and not varying the readings by moving the negative lead to different grounds.

Always have all things connected properly when running it and don't disconnect things with the engine running (you can move the volt meter lead with it running as that's not part of the car wiring)

I believe Prestolite of that era was rated at 34 amps at 14.2 volts so it should be regulated really close to the 14.2
with a mechanical regulator don't be alarmed if it's showing 14.0 or even say 13.8 under various conditions and speeds.
But you don't want lower and really higher isn't good either.
Depending on speed and load, the regulator will either be on the upper contacts and regulating, or down and using the built-in resistor to feed minimal field current so it won't be rock-solid like an electronic regulator would be.

Clean the contacts but be careful to not bend or distort things inside. CAREFUL cleaning.

the contacts closes to the battery connection on the regulator is the circuit breaker-  engine off, it literally breaks connection between alternator and battery and protects the alternator from transients.
The windings and contact points on the other end (the diagram I posted I believe shows CP for circuit breaker and REG or similar for the regulator portion) is the regulator part - again, clean but don't bend or distort.

Once cleaned, the contact point gap on the REGULATOR portion should be .010 to .012"
The contact point gap on the circuit breaker portion should be .017 - .022"
(above directly from the Prestolite service manual - ya really think I'm going to remember those? LOL )

More available as needed IF needed, but it may overwhelm - not knocking ability, but unless you have done a number of them, it can confuse many - even myself - if I've not done one for a while.

Thanks for the instruction. 

I have done a few drop tests and I am only getting just above 12v 12.08... at the battery terminal at 1500 and no spike at all when increasing RPM's. I had the battery tested and it was functioning properly. 

rest well.

wes

Wes