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TF 727 question

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PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2018 at 2:24pm
Trying to remember some 727 "things"....
Does not "pump" in Park, better to start engine in Neutral, Pump runs in Neutral
Sometimes, start in park, go strait to reverse, and sudden pressure can snap a band, iirc...
Easy on 1st burnouts, start off burnout gently in 1st, go to 2nd "quickly", then do thorough burnout, iirc
One of the Drums spins in opposite direction at like 2x engine speed in one of the gears and be
brought to a full stop when going to the next gear, which has caused failures with holes in car floor, iirc
Upgrade to a Bolt-In Sprag...  Does any or all of those sound "accurate" to you all ?
"Abused" a 727 ~20 years, maybe 400 HP Gross 343/367, 3k Stall 10" B&M, 3.73's, 26x8.5 Slicks, 300+ 13.xx to 12.xx passes, 1.8x 60 ft
As seen in my Avatar and YouTube Burnout videos, and maybe 40k street miles 1989-ish to 2011-ish


Edited by PHAT69AMX - Jun/10/2018 at 2:28pm
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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2018 at 2:50am
The issue with the exploding 727s relates mostly to low band apply. My understanding is that with a stock valve body in manual low, both the low band and sprag are engaged. In an effort to improve shifting in racing situations, some aftermarket valve bodies do not apply the low band in first gear and rely only on the sprag, if this fails then things can go boom. In this situation, it is advisable to start the burnout in 2nd gear, then you eliminate the risk of failure. These days a lot of aftermarket valve bodies include the low band apply feature for additional safety, probably still a good idea to start your burnout in 2nd gear.

A 727 that is "built" for 800 HP reliability will no doubt incorporate some good quality parts to reduce the risk of failures.
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2018 at 5:49am
You can also use a TH400 with a GM case and an adapter from one of the AMC vendors, Novak, or Advance Adapters. Then you can use a built 700R4 and keep overdrive. 
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DragRacingSpirit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2018 at 3:49pm
A 400 turbo can be built to handle close to 800 hp with an aftermarket sprag ($75) and heavy duty stock GM parts if you know what you are doing.

In other words a lot cheaper.
Best 1/4 mile 8.99, 1/8 mile 5.71, 60 foot 1.27, no power adders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2018 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

You can also use a TH400 with a GM case and an adapter from one of the AMC vendors, Novak, or Advance Adapters. Then you can use a built 700R4 and keep overdrive. 



If you decide to go this route, the Novak product is better IMHO. I’ve used both. Ran a couple of TH350s and a 2004R in the Javelin with one. Had a TH350 and NP205 in a Wagoneer with the AA kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2018 at 5:42am
The important thing is that if you're going to have over 400 hp almost ANY transmission needs to be modified to handle the power. If this is to be a street/strip car I'd use a four speed (or more) auto. A later model GM auto with five or six speeds would be better for a street car, but a plain old three speed should be a bit stronger if more strip than street.
Frank Swygert
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