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Torque Links

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matty 401 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2018 at 12:31pm
do they also limit the travel of the rear axle ? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2018 at 2:02pm
Torque links limit spring wrap up and reduce wheel hop dramatically.

Here's another thread on torque links


more  of same


another one


another


another


There are more threads on torque links on the forum too. I typed in
The AMC forum torque links in a Google search and found a bunch of interesting threads.



Edited by White70JavelinSST - Jun/08/2018 at 2:13pm
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2018 at 7:21pm
Originally posted by matty 401 matty 401 wrote:

could you use the outer mount for a pattern for the inside on the frame ? 


That's what I'm doing. The plates I'm having made will just be flat though, not with the rounded edges like the factory ones do.

Only issue I'm having thus far is finding a nut big enough for the torque-link bolt.  The bolt is HUGE and fine thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/08/2018 at 10:18pm
Fastenal.

McMaster-Carr.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2018 at 5:15am
Correct me if wrong but the frame bolt looks to be a step bolt. Just guessing from the pictures but 5/8" bolt and stepped to a 1/2" NF thread for the frame plate. Would make sense to not want to crush the link bracket or squeeze the link. 
You could make a sleeve insert with a standard bolt.
There are step wheel bolts for lawn equipment but I don't know if they would come that size?
The other option would be to cut a long bolt of the larger OD, drill, tap the end and insert a smaller diameter stud. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/09/2018 at 9:21am
The bushings are sleeved... and if I remember correctly, the ends of the sleeves are knurled to lock them in place when the large through-bolts are torqued tight (no, they are not stepped bolts)

Concerning a template, to accurately locate the front mounting parts, I can't say I've ever seen one but it does seem logical there would have been a paper template included with the hardware kit.

However, as we can see from Build's pictures, there's not much wiggle room to move the forward mount up or down because the angle of the frame there; once the unit is 'dummied together' (having the rear link end mounted midway in the adjusting slot) all the front holes that'll need to be drilled become obvious.

What is not obvious are the measurements stated in the AM TSMs:





------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Side notes:

Prior to AM's AMX, at least three 'other make' famous sports cars came with similar 'anti-tramp' bars on their rear leaf spring suspension; 1) early Corvettes 2) Studebaker Avanti 3) Shelby Mustangs.

Of these cars, AM's Torque Link design is arguably the best because the way they 'angle in' to help prevent side to side movement of the axle... and the AM Torque Links were probably on that list of items which helped to solidify SAE's decision to give '69 and '70 AM AMX their "Best Engineered Car of the Year Award".

-the AM Torque Links are primarily thought of as being for traction during acceleration but they also control axle spring wrap during braking as well


 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/11/2018 at 5:22pm
I'd feel more comfortable finding an original template.  It's not as obvious as you might think because you have to take ride height into consideration.  If the links are supposed to sit level at normal ride height, how does one mark the area to drill when the car is on the ground with a tire in the way?

There must be some documentation out there on how to mount these to cars not originally equipped.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2018 at 6:44am
Yes, the instructions that come with the factory kit. I haven't seen anything but the link here, but sounds pretty straight forward. Take rear seat out and cut slot above rear sill ("frame rail") and insert plate after drilling holes through side of sill. There has to be some kind of measurement template/instructions for cutting the slot in the floor though. Easy to use the outer bracket to make a template for the plate. You can use 3/8" plate and drill and tap instead of welding on nuts. 1/4" plate and replace bolts with fine thread would be all you really need, but I think I'd use 3/8" plate and fine thread bolts.

The torque link RUBBER bushings are the real key to their success. The rubber bushings offer resistance to movement, which makes them act a lot like a sway bar as well as controlling spring wrap. Most replacement bushings are poly, which don't act the same as the rubber bushings.
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