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Temp gauge issue

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BlackAMXPC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BlackAMXPC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Temp gauge issue
    Posted: May/10/2018 at 12:28pm
This is a two part issue. I have a temp gauge not showing nothing when my javelin is running. Have tried in several ways to get it to work. What reading am I supposed to have when a volt meter is connected to the temp sensor? Volts, ohms what? And what reading? Second, is there a way to fix the gauge or are there replacements?

Edited by BlackAMXPC - May/10/2018 at 1:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 12:34pm
If fuel is functional, then there is a good chance that the temp sender is bad just warm up the engine for a few minutes and measure the sender terminal to ground. The reading will probably be between 50 and 30 ohms, if It is good. If bad it will stay between 82 to 74 ohms.

If thé sender is good, it is possible the trace on the gauges is broken or bad contact at the posts.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 12:44pm
Sending unit - or wire.

KEY OFF - Ground the wire that goes to the temp sending unit.
Once you have the lead grounded, go into the car and turn the key on and watch the gauge.
It should go up - to max.
CAREFUL, you'll peg the gauge if it's working and the circuit is complete. 

If the gauge does nothing after grounding the lead that goes to the sending unit and turning the key on - you have a wire broken, bad connection or bad gauge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 1:02pm
With the key on and the temperature sender connected, use a test light to measure if you have voltage from the sender terminal to ground.  If your instrument voltage regulator is working, the test light will flash on and off.  If you don't either your instrument voltage regulator has failed or you have a wiring problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 5:22pm
But if the fuel gauge works properly............ and I don't see where we know that as of yet. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rodhhrod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 9:53pm
It is only 5-5.5 pulsing DC volts, so a test light is not effective. In my past experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmaher94087 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 10:06pm
Also, make sure that the sending unit in the manifold isn't insulated from ground with Teflon tape or sealant such as Permatex or Silicon seal.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/10/2018 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by rodhhrod rodhhrod wrote:

It is only 5-5.5 pulsing DC volts, so a test light is not effective. In my past experience.


It's actually not so much a voltage regulator as a current regulator. 
Flashing and ultimate voltage will depend on the load going through it. 
Unless one of us has upgraded with an electronic regulator then it will read a constant voltage with no flashing.. regardless of load. The gauges will be SLOW to read upward if that's the case but they will get there.

I always do the easiest first, working from the point furthest out until I locate the fault.
That's why I ground the lead at the sender to see what happens. it's simple, fast, and will tell a lot. If the gauge goes up, you know the gauge and wire are ok. Basic troubleshooting - do what will test the most components to start with, then based on what does or does not happen, branch from there.

If the fuel gauge works and is reasonably accurate - right there you have said a lot about that current limiter/regulator. You have shown that it is working at least in basic form or the fuel gauge would not work.
So if the fuel gauge is ok, or even reads but is off a little, but the temp gauge doesn't move - there's really no need to blame the regulator because the temp gauge doesn't move at all.
If the regulator was so bad that the temp gauge never moved, the fuel gauge would not function or would read WAAAAAY off.
So if the fuel gauge works, the instrument panel regulator is basically working. 
For me the next test is the next most simple - ground the wire to the temp sender.
if the gauge still doesn't move, you have shown a wiring, connection or gauge issue.
If it DOES move, you have proven a sender issue - and proven the regulator works.
Simple first. And all you need is a piece of wire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2018 at 8:07am
Originally posted by BlackAMXPC BlackAMXPC wrote:

What reading am I supposed to have when a volt meter is connected to the temp sensor?
The sensor is essentially a variable resistance. You need to test it with an ohmeter both hot and cold. ~10 ohms hot and 75 ohms cold.

Originally posted by mmaher94087 mmaher94087 wrote:

Also, make sure that the sending unit in the manifold isn't insulated from ground with Teflon tape or sealant such as Permatex or Silicon seal.
That too. It's a common mistake that even the best of us have made.
69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/11/2018 at 8:30am
Originally posted by rodhhrod rodhhrod wrote:

It is only 5-5.5 pulsing DC volts, so a test light is not effective. In my past experience.


As a point of reference, using a test light is the test procedure from a Dodge factory service manual that uses the same circuitry as the AMC version.  With the stock electromechanical instrument voltage regulator, the output when energized is 12 volts with the AVERAGE being about five volts when you average the time on and time off periods.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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