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Temp gauge issue |
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BlackAMXPC
AMC Fan Joined: Apr/30/2018 Location: Goose Creek, S. Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: May/10/2018 at 12:28pm |
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This is a two part issue. I have a temp gauge not showing nothing when my javelin is running. Have tried in several ways to get it to work. What reading am I supposed to have when a volt meter is connected to the temp sensor? Volts, ohms what? And what reading? Second, is there a way to fix the gauge or are there replacements?
Edited by BlackAMXPC - May/10/2018 at 1:12pm |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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If fuel is functional, then there is a good chance that the temp sender is bad just warm up the engine for a few minutes and measure the sender terminal to ground. The reading will probably be between 50 and 30 ohms, if It is good. If bad it will stay between 82 to 74 ohms.
If thé sender is good, it is possible the trace on the gauges is broken or bad contact at the posts. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Sending unit - or wire.
KEY OFF - Ground the wire that goes to the temp sending unit.
Once you have the lead grounded, go into the car and turn the key on and watch the gauge. It should go up - to max. CAREFUL, you'll peg the gauge if it's working and the circuit is complete. If the gauge does nothing after grounding the lead that goes to the sending unit and turning the key on - you have a wire broken, bad connection or bad gauge. |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5458 |
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With the key on and the temperature sender connected, use a test light to measure if you have voltage from the sender terminal to ground. If your instrument voltage regulator is working, the test light will flash on and off. If you don't either your instrument voltage regulator has failed or you have a wiring problem.
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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But if the fuel gauge works properly............ and I don't see where we know that as of yet.
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rodhhrod
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2010 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1041 |
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It is only 5-5.5 pulsing DC volts, so a test light is not effective. In my past experience.
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mmaher94087
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690 |
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Also, make sure that the sending unit in the manifold isn't insulated from ground with Teflon tape or sealant such as Permatex or Silicon seal.
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Mike
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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It's actually not so much a voltage regulator as a current regulator. Flashing and ultimate voltage will depend on the load going through it. Unless one of us has upgraded with an electronic regulator then it will read a constant voltage with no flashing.. regardless of load. The gauges will be SLOW to read upward if that's the case but they will get there. I always do the easiest first, working from the point furthest out until I locate the fault. That's why I ground the lead at the sender to see what happens. it's simple, fast, and will tell a lot. If the gauge goes up, you know the gauge and wire are ok. Basic troubleshooting - do what will test the most components to start with, then based on what does or does not happen, branch from there. If the fuel gauge works and is reasonably accurate - right there you have said a lot about that current limiter/regulator. You have shown that it is working at least in basic form or the fuel gauge would not work. So if the fuel gauge is ok, or even reads but is off a little, but the temp gauge doesn't move - there's really no need to blame the regulator because the temp gauge doesn't move at all.
If the regulator was so bad that the temp gauge never moved, the fuel gauge would not function or would read WAAAAAY off. So if the fuel gauge works, the instrument panel regulator is basically working. For me the next test is the next most simple - ground the wire to the temp sender. if the gauge still doesn't move, you have shown a wiring, connection or gauge issue. If it DOES move, you have proven a sender issue - and proven the regulator works. Simple first. And all you need is a piece of wire. |
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bigbad69
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: Ottawa, Ont. Status: Offline Points: 6685 |
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69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5458 |
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As a point of reference, using a test light is the test procedure from a Dodge factory service manual that uses the same circuitry as the AMC version. With the stock electromechanical instrument voltage regulator, the output when energized is 12 volts with the AVERAGE being about five volts when you average the time on and time off periods. |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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