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1963 Rambler American L-Head Tick |
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hydeparkrambler
AMC Fan Joined: May/08/2018 Location: Hyde Park Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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There is a sound when I bring the clutch up while driving and parked, but while driving at a decent speed when the clutch pedal is pressed completely it stops all noises.
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purple72Gremlin
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Online Points: 16611 |
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Sure makes me think throw out bearing. And I wonder about the input bearing retainer?
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hydeparkrambler
AMC Fan Joined: May/08/2018 Location: Hyde Park Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Yeah the throw out bearing is the name lots of people are saying and does anyone have any details on the best way to check/ replace it?
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tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Online Points: 6213 |
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The transmission has to come out, or at least back enough to get the old throw out bearing off the front of the input shaft, and the new one on.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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hydeparkrambler
AMC Fan Joined: May/08/2018 Location: Hyde Park Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Yeah I saw that but are there any good steps for doing that? I have the service manual but it’s not very good with explaining it. Lol
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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i'm not usually one to 'drive away' a noise, but since it sat for so long, and driving on a bad throw-out bearing won't hurt anything, you might as well just drive it for 100 or so miles and see what (literally) shakes out. could be a mouse nest in there, it'll fling out into the dust cover, which you can drop later and see what's inside.
if they bearing is completely dried out it might get really noisy, then you will know for sure! but surface rust and other crud might be the cause. not much in the clutch is super close tolerance, but pedal fully depressed the pressure plate releases only 50 - 100 thousandths of an inch, and grit'n'stuff might jsut buzz away. then again it could get noisy and start slipping and need replacement or service, but it is unlikely you'll have an on-road failure. might be 15 minutes of cautious, low-speed driving helps resolve or identify things. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Online Points: 6213 |
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Driveshaft out, that probably means either taking the big nut off the differential input, or taking the rear u-joint apart, slide the driveshaft out of the transmission .
Take the shift linkage off the transmission, speedometer cable off, 4 bolts holds the trans to the bell housing. Easier if you got a lift, and transmission jack. But can be done with big jack stands, or if you've got a trailer with a open center, like me, that's a excellent low lift for working under the car. The transmission you've got is a T-96 no doubt, is cast iron. But not that heavy, maybe 60-70 lbs. I've done them with muscle, but it's no fun. It much easier with a transmission jack.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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oh right, big nut rear. you can pull it back enough to get the yoke to fall out of the transmission without taking the driveshaft apart. i jacked the rear of the car up high on tall jackstands, disconnect both front and rear leaf spring mounts on the chassis, un-bolt the bracket that holds the steel brake line to the chassis (NOTE BELOW); that gives you a few more inches of slack.
you can leave the wheels and tires on, and roll it back. it's awkward, but all you gotta do is get it back 6 inches to pull the yoke out. NOTE: i had replaced all my steel brake lines so they were flexible. i didn't bend them enough to worry. but if they're old they will likely crack and leak -- they should be replaced anyway. i thought i would be able to just roll it forward to re-install, but it was far too awkward, and i needed to be in the middle and rear of the car at the same time. i ended up using a ratchet strap around a rear axle tube and the rear engine crossmember to jack it into place. that worked out fine. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Dropping the rear axle is the factory way to remove the driveshaft. DO NOT take the yoke off the rear axle unless you have to -- it needs 300 ft/lbs on that nut and it's hard to do.
Easiest way to remove the driveshaft is to disassemble the rear u-joint (I suppose you could do the front...) on the car. It's a bit of a PITA, and you have to have weight on the car (support axle with jack stands or drive-on lift) or you don't have enough room. Axle swings forward enough to bind driveshaft with axle hanging free on springs. If on a drive-on lift or ramp you still need to jack one tire off the ground so you can turn the shaft. Take the clips out from the axle (or trans) yoke, knock the driveshaft to one side to get the cap out. I use a wood block and hammer, but be careful to put the block (and hammer blows) near the end so you don't dent the driveshaft. Once one cap is out carefully align the joint and make sure it's in the other, rotate and repeat. Put back in the same way, only use a punch to make sure the C clips are seated all around. Not that hard, just tight spaces. I think you already checked the throw-out bearing. If it's noisy with the clutch out, slowly press the clutch (with engine running) and note when the noise stops. If it stops as soon as the slack is out of the pedal then it's the bearing, as that means pressure is starting on the bearing. It may still make some noise with the bearing under pressure... then it's REALLY bad! I'd follow Tom's advice on this one. You might want to start looking for a bearing, but since it sat so long it might just need loosening up by driving. Not a long drive, but in town where you use the clutch a lot and work the bearing. It doesn't do anything with the clutch out. |
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Frank Swygert
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hydeparkrambler
AMC Fan Joined: May/08/2018 Location: Hyde Park Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Thanks again for the great advice! I agree I thought maybe I should drive it for a hundred miles or so to see what kinks work out and get things really moving! It kind of sounds like a pain to get the trans out so I am hoping the sound goes away with driving it. I have put about 6 miles on it so far but thats not very much!
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