amc 20 twingrip tore down

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   The trouble with master kits from companies like Yukon and US Gear is that they use GM size pinion shims that go between the pinion and pinion bearing, instead of under the pinion race.  They don't have the correct diameter shims for under the race.  That makes every shim adjustment a press removal/install of the pinion bearing.  I've done it, but I don't like it.  Maybe someone in the US can receive the Ratech set and send it on to you?

Bob
tufcj

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tufcj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Watkins, CO Status: Online Points: 4086	Post Options Post Reply Quote tufcj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/07/2018 at 7:21pm
	The trouble with master kits from companies like Yukon and US Gear is that they use GM size pinion shims that go between the pinion and pinion bearing, instead of under the pinion race. They don't have the correct diameter shims for under the race. That makes every shim adjustment a press removal/install of the pinion bearing. I've done it, but I don't like it. Maybe someone in the US can receive the Ratech set and send it on to you? Bob tufcj
	69 AMX 74 Javelin AMX 67 Rogue If you need a tool and don't buy it... you'll eventually pay for it... and not have it. Henry Ford

jeanbonjeanbon1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Quebec Status: Offline Points: 194	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeanbonjeanbon1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/08/2018 at 8:09am
	hi, tuf cj you convinced me so well that i used two days to buy ratech parts and even got a sister and a nephew to help me with shipping but companies that don't ship Canada usually use paypal wich i also use but for canadians paypal won't accept to ship to a different adress than ours. After looking so many sites i finally found an ebay site that sells ratech kit and Ebay accepts to change the shipping adress. I finaly ordered today what i was ready to order last friday. That story is just to let you see what we face here. thank you for your help
	Regards,Jean BBBQ Big Bad Blue Quebec Amx 1969 F150 2013 crv 2016 roadstar 2003

jeanbonjeanbon1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Quebec Status: Offline Points: 194	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeanbonjeanbon1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/11/2018 at 6:27am
	Seems an eternity but finally i get back to my twin grip. Summer work, bike, pontoon fixing and enjoying, all bearings pressed (timkens) and ready to check and adjust tolerances. I don't intend to change gears 13/41 as 3.15 is ok for me and they're nice. I think i will remove the carrier gear to check the preload adjustement and fit my gear pattern, is it necessary? I think the results should be very close to what i removed since same gears and pinion shims only new bearings and seals am i right? I'll install pinion with new bearings and same shim thickness .097(multiple shims ). I'm not an expert on rear ends so i'd like to know if i need a case spreader (i could built my own one). I removed the carrier with a pry bar quite easily. Will beat the shims in at the end will be easy with brass hammer or punch? I got the tsm and will try to follow the book as far as possible Edited by jeanbonjeanbon1 - Aug/11/2018 at 6:30am
	Regards,Jean BBBQ Big Bad Blue Quebec Amx 1969 F150 2013 crv 2016 roadstar 2003

Airdrie AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Aug/08/2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 329	Post Options Post Reply Quote Airdrie AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 10:30pm
	Install the pinion with the new bearings and crush sleeve and set the pinion preload, you will need an inch pound dial torque wrench for this. Since you are using the same gears and shims you shouldn't have to adjust shims but I always check the pattern anyway, especially with multiple stack pinion shims I prefer a solid shim but you use what's available. Be certain you have the correct one piece carrier shims on the side they came off originally and don't try to hammer them in after the carrier is in place. I place the carrier shims in the bearing saddles then put the bearing cups on the carrier bearings and as it is lowered in position, tip the cups in to get them started between the shims. A few taps with a dead blow hammer will seat the bearings as the cups slide down and seat on the bearing cones. With a new gear set install I will set carrier bearing preload also but since you are not changing the gears and are using the original carrier shims I would be comfortable skipping this step, just my opinion.
	72 amx javelin 401 4spd

ccowx Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510	Post Options Post Reply Quote ccowx Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 11:06pm
	You asked way back about the left hand thread bolts to hold the twin grip unit together. I had a twin grip unit that was missing those and they were the largest nightmare to find! I could not find them anywhere and no one seems to make them. My final solution was to buy the left hand thread tap and then get some long shank grade 8 bolts and have a machine shop cut them down and then rethread them. The originals had the threads rolled in rather than tapped, which is about 5% stronger, apparently. Only the 390 twin grips had the left hand thread bolts and I have no idea why. Mine has lasted with no problems at all for thousands of miles and several trips to the drag strip, so they seem ok. Chris

401MATCOUPE Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367	Post Options Post Reply Quote 401MATCOUPE Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/13/2018 at 6:16am
	You do NOT need a case spreader....
	Ross K. Peterson 68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT

jeanbonjeanbon1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Quebec Status: Offline Points: 194	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeanbonjeanbon1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/13/2018 at 8:57pm
	this forum is so helpfull i couldn't imagine i could find as many answers here . yesterday and today were two thirty degrees days so i got my bike riidng 1300km but tomorrow i'll work in the morning on the carrier and pinion bearings replacement, i'll probaly work as Airdrie stated and might check a last time if i can get a one piece .0097 pinion shim. ccowx you're right the lefties where a pain and i finally got 8 grade 8 bolts left threaded by an experienced machinist and i used only three. I checked all of them closely and only three needed to be replaced so i got five left. I asked two machinists to do the job and paid twice but one of the sets didn't meet my expectation thanks Mat coupe i'll try to slide the shims in first as airdrie said to avoid building a tool that i'll probably never use after my job is done (That what i hope anyway)
	Regards,Jean BBBQ Big Bad Blue Quebec Amx 1969 F150 2013 crv 2016 roadstar 2003

jeanbonjeanbon1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Quebec Status: Offline Points: 194	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeanbonjeanbon1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 6:37pm
	well as evtg seems to be trouble some i finally got evtg in place but lot of surprises happened like the carrier bearings were replaced with new (exact same replacement timkens) i checked for the side play and finaly ended up with thw same amt of shims but found out that there was no preload so i had to find different shims to get the exact .008'' preload in the carrier. Had to move the shims in the kit to get the correct backlash .008'' backklash very hard to me to get parts fast the shim on the pinion was made by a machinist here and worked out nice and the pattern turned out centered. The pinion preload is 22 inch pound as desired My rear end is really fine painted and i went back on it today to fit the axles and found that after pressing the bearings and throwing my axles in that the left one is aqlmost flush with the axle tube and does not protube from the tube as supposed is this normal?????. I palced a .010 shim and get a .004'' shaft end play(tighter limit in the tsm) so i was wondering if i could use 1976jeep axle shims that i'll probably find easier here in.003 increment or if it is correct to make my own out of shim stock? In resume this particular axle had .080 axle shims on the left side originally and i can't see why. I end up needing a .013'' to thre right clearance. This could explain the rotational play i found when dismantling, didn't check the axle end play before so !!!!!!. I'll see if it still there when i'm finished but for now it seems to be gone. there was also no backlash and no carrier preload so I'm happy i jumped in. Thanks for your time reading that long story ihhihihih
	Regards,Jean BBBQ Big Bad Blue Quebec Amx 1969 F150 2013 crv 2016 roadstar 2003

tufcj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Watkins, CO Status: Online Points: 4086	Post Options Post Reply Quote tufcj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/29/2018 at 7:50pm
	AMC20 bearings and seals for a Jeep CJ all the way through 1985 will fit. I found that out after the local Auto Zone special ordered outer axle bearings and seals. None of it fit because their book showed AMC15 parts, even for an AMX. Being a Jeep guy, when I returned the wrong parts, I took the old seals and bearings, and asked them to look up Jeep CJ. They were all the correct parts, and they had them on the shelf. So much for waiting a week for special orders that are wrong. .004" is the tight side of end play. The TSM calls for .004-.008, since you have new bearings, I wouldn't worry about being on the tight side. The clearance will increase a bit as the bearings seat in. Glad you're getting it together.
	69 AMX 74 Javelin AMX 67 Rogue If you need a tool and don't buy it... you'll eventually pay for it... and not have it. Henry Ford

jeanbonjeanbon1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/26/2014 Location: Quebec Status: Offline Points: 194	Post Options Post Reply Quote jeanbonjeanbon1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/30/2018 at 12:33am
	i have noticed that the the outer seal exceeds inside the backing plate a few thousands so as i hammer blow the shafts to seat the bearings they will contact the inside seal lip instead of the back plate. I figure that it's done on purpose but it's kind of surprising to me that it's not the metal that locks the cup bearings movement. could somebody explain to me why???? I could put a shim outside the back plate and before the outer seal to get the seals really flush but not shure if it 's a good thing The back plates are from an Arizona car and are not rusted or altered in any ways so?????? confused cause if i check the end play with the rubber seal i got to be shure i don't put to much or enough pressure as a matter not to disturb the seal?????
	Regards,Jean BBBQ Big Bad Blue Quebec Amx 1969 F150 2013 crv 2016 roadstar 2003