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Speedo Issue

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 12:48pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

As a note... my 71 had a cracked speedo head. Plastic push on. It did not effect connection, but it allowed me to remove the head and pull out the spring wire from the speedo head end.

Yes it was squared off and probably made it the only way to be removed, from the head side of the cable. Since the speedo is enclosed at the receiving end, it keeps the cable from being pushed up. I would expect if the tranny speedo gear is inclosed, both head and bottom cannot go anywhere, if loose and free to be pulled through the sheath. Though I don't know how easy it is to remove the speedo head from the screw on types.


That was in part not to keep it from escaping, but to keep the cable from moving at all. It more or less trapped the cable so it couldn't screw itself up or down. It's not a matter of it being "enclosed that the receiving end"
You must have some end play in the cable to allow for shrinkage and expansion and slight differences in tolerances, but the shoulder prevents almost all end-play, etc. It keeps it quieter as well as the top end is trapped via that shoulder so it can't SLAP in the housing. 

The screw-on types are SIMPLE - IF IF IF you can get TO them. I like either, it's not the fact it's screw-on or clip-on, it's can you even touch the cable?
I have found Javelins to be hundreds of times easier to deal with dash-wise than say, Eagle, Spirit, etc. 
Eagle dash work SUCKS - and that's only because I can't use words to say how I REALLY feel about accessing the back of the cluster on Eagle. I'm dead serious in that if Ken (pit crew) doesn't like Javelin dash work I will honestly do five of his if he'll deal with my Eagle dash for me.
You can't even touch the cable on an Eagle - at least like mine - until you half-way remove the cluster and pull it forward and to do that you remove the package tray, and several other parts, then PRY brittle plastic out of the clips and lean the cluster forward and pray things don't break and crack. This is why I have several clusters and boxes of dash parts for Eagle. 

Now, you want to hear something funny??
I tried to pull the cable out of my 73 so I cold clean and lube it?! - and it's STUCK SOLID. But the speedometer WORKED - yes it worked and was smooth (not accurate because of different gears, different tire sizes, etc. but it worked)
So now I have to figure out why the @#$%# I can't pull the cable out of the housing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 1:11pm
Ah, i do remember you mentioning about not wanting to pull an instrument panel from an eagle or like dash. My first AMC was your 73, and found the only trouble with pulling an instrument panel was getting the feel of how that connector functions, before obtaining a TSM.

I did obtain a TSM within a year, brand new from AMC parts and service counter.

I think the 71 and earlier may have no solid hold near the speedo gear. Thus easy to pill out. Mine all i had to do is straighten and let the speedo gear side point to the ground. The sheath had very little friction.

I assume the speedo gear side is probably your issue, or the plastic connector has to be pulled carefully from the sheath. Like I stated in my reply, mine cracked along the side, so it did not take much force to pull the head off.

I can do a test on my theory by reassembling my cable, and head, and try to remove the spring wire by the square pin, while keeping the head in place. I assume the head has a narrow fitting to keep the pin in place.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmaher94087 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 6:58pm
When one lubes the speedo cable and afterwards finds that the needle still jumps around; it's time to go to plan B. There is a brass bushing inside the speedo head that will need to be replaced. Pull the speedo and take it to a speedo shop. It's only a few bucks if the speedo head is out of the dash.
Mike
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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/27/2018 at 7:32pm
I've never had one that needed to be replaced (cars with hundreds of thousands on them included) but I have had them where the head needed to be cleaned and lubed - and I did that.
The kit I mentioned also had the provisions to lube the head, etc.
I'm not suggesting or saying a bushing never needs to be replaced, but of all the cars I've dealt with, I've never had to have one replaced, nor have I ever sent one in to have any bushing replaced.
Clean and lube only.......... (they spin with no real load so that sort of wear should be rare)

Before I sent one to anyone, I'd also check the cable for physical damage, kink, too close to heat like exhaust/headers, dirt between the magnetic plate, etc.
Once you thoroughly check the cable, lube it, and lube the head and make sure it's clean around the plates, then go from there.......

My Eagle has over 191,000 miles and original speedometer, smooth as silk. 
But then I cleaned and lubed it......about 30,000 miles ago.
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