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A Different type of oil question |
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6768rogues
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6241 |
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I would put it in squirt cans and use it on drive chains of farm equipment.
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Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.
Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL. |
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401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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I would be more concerned if he mixed the same weight of detergent and NON detergent oil....if so I would not use in engine, but rather like others said in oil bath or chain oil.......
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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akimmet
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/02/2012 Location: Republic OH Status: Offline Points: 428 |
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Modern oil is simply better than the old motor oils. They break down much faster than your average 3000 mile oil change. It along with leaded gas were the two major causes for engines to wear out. Our old engines actually last longer between rebuilds with modern gasoline and motor oil.
Most of the oils from the early 60's actually had less ZDDP than even modern API SM and SN oil. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Modern oils are better -- or rather the additive packages are better. Less foaming, better viscosity consistency (in multi weight oils), etc. But the old oil is still good. The oil itself never wears out, the additives break down. I guess if you got it REALLY hot it might break down, but under normal heat (in the 200-300 degree range) it doesn't. If you could replenish the additives and clean it it would be good as new. Oil "wears out" the additives and collects combustion by products that turn it black. That's why the double filter system AMSOIL sells means you never have to change the oil -- that and the fact that when you change the filters you have to top it off with two quarts... you're changing almost half the oil anyway!
In the 30s and earlier it was common to drain oil, pour into a container through cheese cloth to get any larger particles out, then let it sit for a few days so that most small particles settled to the bottom (non-detergent oil, few if any additives). Then you were ready to put it back in the engine, minus a bit with the sludge in the bottom, and top off with a bit of new! I still remember grand dad doing that for the 1950s model 8N tractor when I was just old enough to remember (6-8?). I guess dad got him to stop doing that about that time. Grand dad was raised in the depression era, he didn't waste anything! I think he was born in 1908... deceased in 1995. |
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Frank Swygert
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401MATCOUPE
AMC Addicted Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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This is exactly what I was saying the difference between Non-Detergent and Detergent Motor Oils. In the early days of the Combustion Engine, all oils were NON-detergent, that includes aircraft oils. This type of oil did not keep the particles suspended in the oil and they dropped to the bottom of the oil pan during service and relatively clean oil was continuously circulated....some may have never seen, but early engines did not have oil filters. Once detergent oils were introduced, oil filters became the norm to filter particles from oil. If this old oil has been cross mixed I think you will find it is not worth the savings in anyway between not letting the oil filter do its job and the poor quality of the additives package. During WW2 and after all large radial engines used Non Detergent oil and had sumps to capture the particles and would allow inspection of the engine condition, via the particles found. Oil was never discarded, it was swapped with "reclaimed" oil. This was oil removed during maintenance and recovered and sent back to Oil Centers that let it sit in large drums. After a period of time the top was siphoned off and tested for its qualities, additives were introduced to bring it back to Military Specifications and then shipped back out.....my father was best friends that worked at such lab from post WW2 until the mid 60's. Only the bottom matter in the tanks was ever discarded as waste.
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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jpnjim
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/25/2007 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 2752 |
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I had also heard of people reclaiming oil out of one engine to use in another,
like change the oil in the car, and into the mower it goes (then the mower oil gets dumped in the yard for weed control but I'll skip that part ) Compare that with our throwaway society where most people keep the same oil in the mower for the 2-3 years it works before they scrap the whole thing and buy a new one. |
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71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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I remember buying oil labeled as "recycled" in the 80s. The cheaper oil at some local gas station/convenience stores. I assumed it was actually run through a filtering process and additives reintroduced, but may have just been in settling tanks. I bet they did both -- let it sit and trash settle for a while, then filter the rest with a fine filter. But maybe no filter...
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Frank Swygert
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