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1971-1974 Javelin U-Joints |
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2713 |
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Ford 9" has a 9" ring gear. AMC 20 has an 8.875" ring gear. Ford 8.8 has [all together now] an 8.8" ring gear.
The Ford 9" is expensive. The Ford 8.8 is as common as Uncle Bob. The advantage of a 9" is that you can build the hoghead on the bench and then install it. The 8.8, like the AMC 20, doesn't have the removable hoghead. Dollar for dollar, I think the 8.8 will do everything you want unless you're building a dedicated race car...and for less money. |
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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So I replaced the u-joints. The wobble isn't as bad as it was (those were definitely the factory u-joints from 73), but it's still there. I guess I needs to try a few more things.
The NAPA 1310 Proformer u-joints needed some modification. I had to re-use the original retaining clips as they were three thousands of an inch thinner than the new NAPA clips. Additionally, the caps were a tad longer so I had to remove a little material from the top of each cap. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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The wobble could be in the end of the transmission. The front yoke
and/or the bushing in the inside of the transmission output shaft
housing could be worn. If the driveshaft still moves a bit much I'd suspect those. It should have a LITTLE movement, just not much. Have you driven it since changing the u-joint? If it vibrates at high speed (say 55+) a worn yoke or output bushing (or both) could be the culprit(s). I'd try the yoke first, but you may want to just go ahead and get both. I'd take the housing off when I pulled the driveshaft and take the housing to a trans shop. They won't charge much for the bushing and to replace it. You CAN do it at home, but it's a bit hard to get that old bushing out and a new one back in without damaging it. Any driveline shop should be able to get you a new yoke, but if it's hard to come by try just the bushing. I replaced both when I had a driveline vibration I knew wasn't the u-joints. Turned out to be damaged splines inside the yoke! If the yoke doesn't slip on/off easily it will cause vibrations. In my case the shaft had been made about an inch short and the splines eventually twisted due to not being in far enough. Had a new shaft made along with the new yoke and bushing. I had replaced the bushing a couple YEARS before I replaced the yoke, actually. Didn't do any good, but vibration was never bad -- just a little at 65-70 mph. Would have been worse if I had a standard rear axle -- I've got a Jag IRS. Driveshaft only moves about 1/4" total since the IRS mounts only flex a little when driving and hitting bumps and such.
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Frank Swygert
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