Removing Drip Rail Trim

Same as an AMX/Jav.  I use a hardwood block maybe 3-4" long (hardwood flooring works well).  Windows down, work from the inside.  Start at one end.  Place the block against the bottom edge and tap with a light hammer.  Don't try to pop it off in one pass, tap - move, tap - move.  It may take 3-4 passes over the full length to remove it.

When you paint the vehicle, keep the paint VERY light on the rail, or you won't get it back on.  I was able to reinstall with just the palms of my hands while wearing mechanics cloves.  Hitting it with anything WILL dent it.

Bob
tufcj

After removing the drip rail trim from 2 early AMX's for paint, I decided to leave the last one I'm doing alone. Since there was no color change, I carefully masked off the drip rail trim, sanded, primed and blocked as usual, had the car painted, removed the tape and Voila!, unmolested original trim. No dents, no hassle and with a little hand polishing, it looks great. I hand sanded the recess between the drip rail and the top with fine ScotchBrite pads, it took the primer/sealer just fine and the Matador Red paint and clearcoat look as good as the other 2 cars where I went thru the painstaking process of removing and re-installing the trim. The clearcoat thickness on my first AMX was enough to require some sanding before I could get the trim to fit again. My advice, leave well enough alone!

Hey Matt,
Just thought I would pipe in a bit on this. First off, these moldings were never designed to be removed. Technically, they were a one-use item because of the way they pinched the drip rail.. However, sometimes they do need to be removed because we know rust is present, etc. I have taken off more of these over the years than you can imagine. Yep, I learned the hard way many years ago. BUT, you can use a church key and I have found it works great if you are careful. It gives the best control as opposed to hammering them off. You may want to practice on a bad one at first.

If you tape the rounded end of the key with a few layers of tape you will protect the outer surface of the molding. Never use the sharp end. I take the key and put about a 30 degree bend in it folded back (and grind the sharp point back). It helps put the pressure in the correct position and helps to clear other parts of the car for easier removal. If you start at one end at the very tip and carefully ease it off, you just work the key an inch at a time to get it to pull off. When there is about 6 inches pulled off, use your free hand to persuade it off along with the key. It keeps the key from doing all the work and damage is way less likely. When it is off, if you have small marks underneath on the lower edge where you can see it took extra pursuation to get it off at from the hook of the key, just take a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze those few points back flat again on that lower edge.

Considering the paint issue mentioned, I usually paint that area with one coat of paint when painting jambs or other 'firsts' with the paint. Then tape it off during the paint job.

Lastly..Always reinstall them with the palm of your hand, if at all possible. I've had a few stubborn ones over the years that will beat my hand up, so I use a small, soft rubber mallet if really necessary. I've never lost another battle since my first hard lessons dealing with these!

Just my own opinion..
Walt