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1973 Hornet manual disc master?

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phast1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 5:28pm
Doing a scarebird front disc conversion on a 1973 hornet that came factory with 4 wheel manual drums. Still going to be manual brakes, but even after bleeding almost an entire quart of brake fluid through the front reservoir the pedal feel is mushy and does not seem to be improving after continued bleeding. I'm thinking the bore on the stock master could be worn, so might as well switch to a proper disc/drum master instead. Even if turns out not to be the problem, it would nice to know that it's been replaced and eliminate a variable. I believe the master cylinder i'm looking for is a Cardone 10-1492, but I just want to make sure it would work in a manual brake application. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 5:49pm
Yes, you should switch to a disc/drum master. At minimum you must remove the check valve from the chamber for the front brakes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/14/2018 at 7:07pm
I used the 74 Hornet disc/drum mc on my 62 Rambler Scarebird conversion.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phast1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/27/2018 at 6:02pm
Bumping this thread. I ordered 10-1492 master cylinder, and realized pretty quick that's not going to work. The larger reservoir is pointed towards the front, which goes to the rear drums and wouldn't work. Size wise it's also a good bit larger than stock, with the stock brake lines being far off.  

I was wondering what is the part number of a stock replacement disc master cylinder? This looks close, and it claimed to fit, but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask. 

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/28/2018 at 8:23am
The brake lines are easy to swap. There are adapters for different size lines, but if the newer MC take standard brake line nuts just remove the line from the MC to the junction block and get a new one. Don't have to flare the ends -- parts stores sell lines in 6" increments. You may need a 13" line and would have to use an 18", but can find a place to bend that extra 5" instead of cutting. You should be able to use adapters and bend the lines you have to swap reservoirs. The link for the MC you posted from Summit should work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phast1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2018 at 11:27pm
Wanted to bump this thread yet again. Considering that the disc master I got is still not an exact match for the existing brake lines, I thought It might be worthwhile to convert to power brakes considering lines will have to be made regardless. I've read that a booster and master cylinder setup from an eagle will work, and was just curious if anyone can confirm this. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phast1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 12:05am
Bump
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 6:37am
Pretty much the same as late model Concord.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 8:08am
phast - Farna is giving you correct advice - use the proper master cylinder for the car, and move the brake lines to match.  SFAIK, all 70s-80s AMCs with disc/drum factory setups had the larger disc reservoir in front of the smaller drum res.
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