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327 - bad cold idle |
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mixed up 
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Joined: Jun/16/2015 Location: Monroe mich Status: Offline Points: 2178 |
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 Posted: Dec/23/2017 at 7:27am |
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might want to back out the idle mixture screws about a 1/4 turn see if that helps
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69 amx 290 auto
65 220 290 4spd 80 ford fairmont |
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Posted: Dec/26/2017 at 11:47am |
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Enough time has to be allowed for the oil to get to all the lubricated surfaces!
You can burn a bearing or worse by running it hard while dead cold. That said I feel it is best to warm it up under a light load rather than sitting at idle. IMO if you have an automatic trans it needs a warm up as much or more than the motor. |
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Gremlin Dreams
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Dec/26/2017 at 9:25pm |
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Never run a cold engine hard. It should take long at all for oil to get to things, but cold steel and aluminum is not as strong, clearances are greater in the bore, etc. and you are asking for trouble to put a heavy load on a cold engine. (cold not meaning a fresh start at 70 (F) but cold..............)
Like I said before - watch the oil pressure, make sure the lifters have settled down, and proceed to drive it. Light load, light on the gas for a short time. Automatics are indeed more in need of being warmed before fully loading. You can drive but if it's an automatic I take a bit more care because the seals are stiff, the oil thicker and valves and spools more sluggish. I'd be more concerned about an automatic transmission than the engine, in either case I advocate warming by careful driving (don't jump onto the highway and hit full speed)
I tend to take it easy for the first mile and go from there. Of course - it helps to define COLD. For those in Florida they are wondering why all the concern about a cold engine (at a cold sixty degrees for them) when I think of cold, I think of today - high of four degrees (F) Fifty is cool. Do be aware that automatics with some age and miles on them (like a virgin 1970 or older) has hard seals anyway, but then drop the temperature down, and consider thicker colder fluid, etc. and you want to warm that transmission up a bit before applying a full load to it. |
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Posted: Dec/27/2017 at 5:55am |
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-2 F here right now, and my 2000 merc sable wagon will get 5+ minutes idle in gear before driving.
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Gremlin Dreams
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FSJunkie
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Joined: Jan/09/2011 Location: Flagstaff, AZ Status: Offline Points: 4742 |
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Posted: Dec/27/2017 at 12:25pm |
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I start them, let the idle for 10-20 seconds, then put them in gear and drive carefully until the temperature needle reaches about 150 degrees. Idling mine never got the intake manifolds and carburetors very warm because there was insufficient exhaust flow through the heat riser. The engine would get warm, but those parts were cold and it would drive awful. Actually driving did a much better job of warming up the carbs and manifolds so they'd drive better. The biggest thing about having a cold engine run well is to match the choke opening to the heating of the intake manifold. The colder the manifold, the more choke it will need. You won't have a fun time if the choke opens faster than the manifold heats. Hot air chokes are really good at matching the choke opening to manifold heat. Electric chokes suck at it. They tend to open way too quickly, which is why I put a resistor in series with the electric choke to slow its opening rate.
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1955 Packard
1966 Marlin 1972 Wagoneer 1973 Ambassador 1977 Hornet 1982 Concord D/L 1984 Eagle Limited |
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990V8
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Joined: Oct/07/2016 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 789 |
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Posted: Jan/23/2018 at 9:16am |
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It got worse. The bad idle.
Went on a 75 mile trip for our wedding anniversary, by the time we got there and started the car up again the next day, after the first minute of running it pretty much wouldn't idle at all until it was really hot. Kept cutting out. And when you're in traffic and it has to be in Park to start - yes, I should fix that - it's not much fun. Next day was about the same. I randomly richened the idle mixture, increased the idle speed so it was thump! into gear, just so it would keep going. Then, on the way home, we filled up. And after that, the idle was and is perfect. So, what I think, water in the fuel. At home, I usually fill up from the same pump in the same garage, I reckon there was water in the last two lots of fuel. Or perhaps condensation? It had been standing a week or three. But I never had that with any car. So that's my guess - bad fuel. For the first minute from cold the water is at the bottom of the float chamber, after that the float chamber warms up and the water is into the engine. Now I need to retune the idle as it needed an awful lot of churning to catch from cold today. Ivor |
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63 Canadian Ambo 990 V8 327
74 LandRover Lightweight V8 SIII Shopping Trolley |
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