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70 amx clutch adjustment |
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rodhhrod
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/11/2010 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1041 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2017 at 9:58am |
Just curious, is it possible to adjust the clutch so the clutch pedal is the same height as the brake pedal ?
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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The clutch pedal arm has a stopper at the top of the bracket just below the hinge point. You could fabricate a larger stopper and readjust the clutch but that won't give you much.
A better way if everything is working to your satisfaction is to fabricate/buy a longer or shorted brake pedal arm. They are just 1"x 1/4" cold rolled steel with holes in each end. There are some adjustable ones you can purchase also, but I have no experience with them on an AMC. Maybe someone else has one they can recommend. I also like both pedals at the same height even though they were off right from the factory.
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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Yes, it is possible.
The White70JavelinSST has the clutch and brake pedals at the same distance above the floor board. And, Yeah it looks much better when the two pedals are the same height. Both pedals have been adjusted to achieve this. The brake pedal is adjusted such that the big toe side of my foot can be placed on the brake pedal and depress it to produce the amount of braking force that's desired, while simultaneously being able to place the little toe side of my foot on the throttle and blip it for down shifting while approaching a corner. The clutch pedal was brought down to the level of the brake pedal by adjusting the length of the pushrod between the Z bar and the clutch arm in the bell housing. Make sure you have a good spring between the clutch arm and the Z bar to prevent the pushrod from falling out. FYI, I haven't read the TSM on pedal height adjustment, but the rule of thumb I was taught was that the clutch should disengage fully when the pedal is about 3/4 to 1 inch above the floor. Hope this helps Edited by White70JavelinSST - Dec/14/2017 at 4:56pm |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Not to start controversy, but asking.
If the clutch pedal arm stop is not utilized to stop the pedal travel - then isn't the throw out bearing back end now riding on the transmission bearing retainer and the pedal has "free play"? Trying to picture this setup as the linkage spring only holds the linkage from falling out.
The TSM clutch pedal adjustment utilizes the stop as an adjustment point and the 1" or so above the floor is spot on. Am I missing something here? |
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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I thought the clutch pedal was supposed to have a bit of free play and not ride tight up against a stop or anything, which allows the throw out bearing to float on the bearing retainer. The T5 has a steel bearing retainer. I believe, hopefully some one will correct me if wrong, that the 70 and newer Javelins/AMXs didn't get the pedal stop on the pedal arm under the dash. the diagram below is of the 68/69 setup I think. I'll post another diagram of the I6 and V8 setup I believe to be from 70 on up.
Maybe I better read that section in the TSM. ( See next post for that section in the TSM.) Although the T5 has been in the car over ten years with the pedals adjusted like that, probably over 10K miles. No problems yet. I did not install the throw out spring. See the diagram in the next post. I believe this spring will keep the throw out bearing up against the bearing retainer, unless like you stated, the pedal is up against a stop under the dash. The only spring under the car on the clutch linkage I kept was the little one that's not named next to the bell crank to throw out lever. If the pedal rattles or the linkage rattles, I can't hear it, the stereo is always too loud BTW, I replaced the crappy nylon inner idler and outer idler bushings with flanged bronze bushings I bought from Aircraft Spruce for a ridiculously low price. Now I don't have to worry about the bushings wearing out prematurely. Edited by White70JavelinSST - Dec/15/2017 at 4:53pm |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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White70JavelinSST
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Aug/08/2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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As promised here's the other diagram.
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70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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The second diagram above is the one I was referencing with the return spring. If you put enough throw out spring on, I believe, it must offset the return spring to get pedal off the stopper and the throw out bearing would then be floating on the bearing retainer.
This is possible, but I don't know the ramifications to the throw out bearing, if any? The clutch would still work as adjusted from the engagement to the floor. I just adjusted the brake pedal arm length as it has no impact on brake performance and did not effect clutch pedal design. Never even occurred to me to try a mod on the clutch side. |
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