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Rod knocking 196

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/16/2017 at 8:26am
Pre 63 big cars have four corner engine mounts. So any engine you put in other than a 196 will need some mount fabrication. A 64-71 199/232 will bolt to your trans, but you need the flywheel/flexplate as well. At least the 232 flexplate is slightly larger than the 196 (but fits in the bell).

Then you have the issue of engine length. The radiator brackets can be swapped side to side to move the radiator forward about an inch. Then you need a Jeep CJ-5 (NOT CJ-7!) water pump and pulley. The 196 pulley might work, not sure. That is a much shorter water pump than others (it was also used in 65 Americans with 232).

The front motor mounts might not be too much of an issue. You may be able to adapt the 196 plate (between timing cover and engine) to the 199/232 and move the crossmember or make adapter plates.  Another alternative is to make perches for a newer engine and weld or bolt to the 59 crossmember -- it's plenty strong enough to support an engine. The problem with that is you would have to use a newer transmission and lose or adapt the torque tube. See the 56-66 trans swap sticky for info on that.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 2:38am

Quote Tom I think I have caused some confusion with the way I worded that I would rather not swap a motor I would prefer to stick with the original..


hahaha oops, my bad. got it. i my brain was expecting a comma in there.

well that all sounds good and reasonable. i agree on that Portland shortblock. if it's been bored or honed and re-ringed and all that it's worth $100 plus $100 or more shipping just for the parts. if you get it id' tear it all down, wash out the inevitable dust and probably-old lube.

every engine builder i talk to tells me to use the absolute best quality breakin and assembly lubes you can get. Joe Gibbs break-in lube paste, break in oil, etc. some here will say it's a waste of money, but it's a poor place indeed to save pennies. tho that engine is hardly high-performance the tappet system is lousy and puts a lot of wiping force on those tiny lifters. in 1964 no one cared everything was cheap and expectations were low. today this stuff is expensive metal.

what farna sez on head checking. cracked heads on 195.6 ohv are COMMON. it's a good idea to check on 232's, but cracks there are fairly rare (though increasingly likely with age opportunity window). i've had 5? heads on four engines plus a yard pull and three of them were cracked. COMMON.  hope yours is good and dont have to ship one. 

hone bearings rings and if your oil pump isnt like-new, buy one. found a NEW! not rebuilt pump last year for $80. check gear-to-body cavity clearance. with wear the volume drops. 

BEWARE re-surfaced lifters. the ones i had bought in 2010? and ran for 6 years upon disassembly had horrible pitting damage to all 12. i ran 15w-50 Mobil 1 on frequent changes. i was very concerned, bought an NOS set for not a lot more than the regrinds, and measured them all, found the regrinds were .015" shorter -- too much metal taken off, surface hardness removed. the interesting thing is that the cam lobes were fine, though the lifters had severe, terrible, pitting. 

the other area that needs particular attention is the block deck and head sealing surface. basically you cannot cheap out on a shop that uses a big belt abrasive resurfacer. maybe a careful shop can do it right. mine didn't. it left ripples. the engine ran fine for 7 years, upon diassembly some evidence of leaking in the thin area between the siamese pairs; but the new builder uses a big fly cutter, he took an initial .005" pass off, which revealed the ripples. he got it FLAT flat. this engines most severe engineering shortcoming is head sealing, and related head cooling, and this area needs to be DONE RIGHT. all it needs is quality, careful work. tolerances are not tight, but it's gotta be flat!

i think all of my experience is written up at http://195.6ohv.com.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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