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Javelin Door Hinges

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 7:01pm
Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

If I can get to it just by removing the cluster, that wouldn't be so bad.
With A/C your still not in the clear. The driver side vent duct is still in the way. The TSM claims you can reach the driver side upper bolts with a 10 inch extension with out pulling anything but I have no clue what the author was smoking that day. You will be forced to pull the dash pad to get to the passenger side upper bolts anyway. Plan ahead, pull the dash pad, the cluster, and the A/C duct then get everything done all at the same time. Get some help. You would not believe how heavy those doors are. I also suggest you invest in a magnetic socket to get the bolts back in or you may wind up fishing them out of the A pillar with a magnet several times. Ask me how I know.

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 7:14pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

If I can get to it just by removing the cluster, that wouldn't be so bad.
With A/C your still not in the clear. The driver side vent duct is still in the way. The TSM claims you can reach the driver side upper bolts with a 10 inch extension with out pulling anything but I have no clue what the author was smoking that day. You will be forced to pull the dash pad to get to the passenger side upper bolts anyway. Plan ahead, pull the dash pad, the cluster, and the A/C duct then get everything done all at the same time. Get some help. You would not believe how heavy those doors are. I also suggest you invest in a magnetic socket to get the bolts back in or you may wind up fishing them out of the A pillar with a magnet several times. Ask me how I know.


this is the truth about those bolts.  ask me how "I" know?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:



Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

If I can get to it just by removing the cluster, that wouldn't be so bad.
With A/C your still not in the clear. The driver side vent duct is still in the way. The TSM claims you can reach the driver side upper bolts with a 10 inch extension with out pulling anything but I have no clue what the author was smoking that day. You will be forced to pull the dash pad to get to the passenger side upper bolts anyway. Plan ahead, pull the dash pad, the cluster, and the A/C duct then get everything done all at the same time. Get some help. You would not believe how heavy those doors are. I also suggest you invest in a magnetic socket to get the bolts back in or you may wind up fishing them out of the A pillar with a magnet several times. Ask me how I know.



I knew better on the difficulty, just by how little room is in the upper area. CamJam would have to be a true expert are removal and installation of door hinges, let alone to do a full hinge restoration on the car. Just to create a true rebore of the elongated holes, for pressing new bushings, would be a requirement, else uneven wear and back to redoing things all over again.

Of all things, door hinges are one item I find I rather not do on my own from all the stuff I have done in stripping down my car. Fortunately lithium grease has proven its self well over the years, by the original owner on the original hinges. No sign of wear in function and level door hang.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 8:20pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:

Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:

If I can get to it just by removing the cluster, that wouldn't be so bad.
With A/C your still not in the clear. The driver side vent duct is still in the way. The TSM claims you can reach the driver side upper bolts with a 10 inch extension with out pulling anything but I have no clue what the author was smoking that day. You will be forced to pull the dash pad to get to the passenger side upper bolts anyway. Plan ahead, pull the dash pad, the cluster, and the A/C duct then get everything done all at the same time. Get some help. You would not believe how heavy those doors are. I also suggest you invest in a magnetic socket to get the bolts back in or you may wind up fishing them out of the A pillar with a magnet several times. Ask me how I know.


He's 100% correct. I know because I just pulled a set off of a junk car I'm sending to Dave for a rebuild. Then I'm going to do the roller upgrade to them before putting them on my car.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 9:54pm

Ok , my car has A/C, so I'm back to thinking I can possibly change just pins and bushings by removing the doors.  Make sense? Obviously if the holes are egged out I'll eventually have to have them rebuilt (the next time the dash is out) but that could buy me some time perhaps?

Strangely, my passenger side door is much worse than my driver's side. Maybe the driver's side has been replaced before? 
'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2017 at 4:25am
Originally posted by CamJam CamJam wrote:





Ok , my car has A/C, so I'm back to thinking I can possibly change just pins and bushings by removing the doors.  Make sense? Obviously if the holes are egged out I'll eventually have to have them rebuilt (the next time the dash is out) but that could buy me some time perhaps?

Strangely, my passenger side door is much worse than my driver's side. Maybe the driver's side has been replaced before? 



Take a good look at the hinges, and see if there is a difference in how they are greased.

The original owner put over 120K on his daily driver for years until i purchased it in 2002. Well maintained, as ball joints still had some life in them when I popped the rivets. Everything was greased to the hilt. I was surprised to find good grease in the doors for the locks, and window channels. Nothing has been left to harden or cake up with dirt.

You couldn't say it was left untouched but, at least put back together better than most through the years.

I bet the passenger side Is dry like the desert it lived in.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/13/2017 at 9:51pm

Took the passenger's door off today and replaced the hinge pins and bushings.  The holes in my hinges were still in good shape, but the bushings were shot and the pins a little worn too.  Tried to find replacements pins at NAPA, but no luck.  Found them for $12.95 per door at O'Reilly's though, in the "Help!" section... Dorman part #38688, pins and bushings both.  The pins were the perfect size, but the o.d. of the bushings was just a hair too large.  I  reamed the holes for the bushings out with a 3/8" drill bit and that made for a perfect fit. I was then able to tap them in with a small hammer.

Really not a hard job if the pins come out easily like mine did.  Hardest part was realigning the door afterwards.  Not difficult, just takes a lot of trial and error to get the door gaps just right. 

I'll do the driver's side tomorrow.


'73 Javelin 360 (current project)
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX (2018 Teague Heritage Award) SOLD

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