AMX/Javelin Brake Booster Bracket

On mine which is a 69 AMX there was about a half inch to three quarter inch spacer between the brake booster and the bracket which would change location of the pedal but if you'd like it where it's at that's fine I would think. And everything seems to work well. I'm still trying to get the pivot pin unseized I have to take it to a friend that has a press and we'll put some heat on it and see if that works. If not I'll be looking for one online here

6PakBee wrote: White70JavelinSST wrote: 6PakBee wrote: It's more than just the booster spacers.  The linkage is different between the drum and disc boosters.  Disc top, drum bottom.  At least in '70. I successfully converted the White70JavelinSST from drum to disc brake booster and brakes using only the parts from the drum brake bracket and linkage including the pushrod that came with the disc booster. It does put the pedal in a bit different spot., but its still a completely workable situation. I like the brake pedal closer to the same plane as the throttle, I can side foot the throttle and brake simultaneously for downshifting and braking together. The brake pedal does not bottom out on the floor of the car dead engine or engine live. Of course I cannot remember all the details as I did this over ten years ago. So that in itself says it works, I put about 1500 to 2000 miles a year on the car. I absolutely agree that it is not necessary to used the disc brake brackets for a drum/disc conversion.  I just didn't want the OP to assume that the brackets were the same for both a stock drum and a stock disc applications.

Well 6PakBee, I for one am happy that the information the OP  is getting is based on the photo evidence you presented. Now this info is archived as the two systems had different brackets and linkages. Good info. Thanks for posting the pics !

The main purpose of the bracket is to lift the booster higher to clear the engine. The disc booster back in those days as a larger diameter than the drum booster. There is some difference in the lever ratio, but that is part of what made those power discs so touchy back in the day. I use a drum booster bracket on my car. It requires a bit more pedal effort, but I like that -- not as touchy as the old power brakes used to be.

As long as the bracket lifts the booster enough to clear you can use one form any car or the Jeep bracket. Ford and Chevy used similar brackets in some of their cars and trucks. You might have to "adjust" the hole in the firewall and the length of the pushrod from pedal to bracket if you use something other than a small car (Javelin/AMX/American) bracket of around the same year. If you use a Ford/Checy/Jeep bracket you may have to drill new firewall mounting holes. I've done a couple with modified brackets. I'm currently running a 65 Classic bracket with a Ford Ranger booster and master on my 63 Classic. Took modifying the bracket and booster rod to make that work.

Do note that you may need both feet on the pedal to stop the car without the booster -- takes a lot more leg effort due to a different pedal ratio than manual brakes.