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LED headlights 5.75 inch |
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billd 
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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 Posted: Dec/09/2017 at 9:53pm |
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Like I said earlier - once I added the two relays, new wiring and sockets and new lamps - (bulbs) - my headlights put out nice bright near-white light and actually aren't that far off from lighting things up like my 2011 Chevy truck does.
I have to keep them aimed as they are so bright now I get flashed if I don't have just the right air in the shocks and the headlights aimed with that specific amount. It was - hahahaha - night and day difference. They went from yellow to much more white and more than double the output. My system regulates at about 14v (the Jeep PDC controls the alternator on the 4.0) and with engine running I was getting around 11 volts at the headlights when accounting for the voltage drop in the ground and feed. I figured in total it was a good three volt drop and that's a lot - and the chart I posted earlier shows it's down to under HALF the output at full voltage - LESS THAN HALF the luminosity - that's a huge drop. I don't feel any need to change 'em now that I've got new, good wires and sockets and the relays. And I live out in the sticks, by the river and reserve areas where the trees come up tot he roads, it's all hills and curves and you must have good lights. The deer work in pairs to get you - one will stand out ahead in the road and distract you while their buddy waits at the edge, hidden by trees and tall grass, just waiting to jump out and attack you. If you aren't lighting up the road AND the side of the road a bit you are doomed in our neighborhood. In fact it's so bad I've nearly been nailed before I even get past the boundary of my own property! New halogen factory type lamps, new sockets, new ground, new feed from relays - it's totally amazing the difference it made. My 73 Javelin will get the same update when I finally get it back on the road. I figure if it's that simple and cheap to get really nice light out of these cars, I'm doing it. the 70 will likely be left alone as I'm trying to keep it all stock and I rarely ever drive it at night. Heck, I rarely ever drive it anyway.
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990V8
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Oct/07/2016 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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Posted: Dec/16/2017 at 10:17am |
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Another thing that surprised me, was the wiring colours. No tracers.
See here http://www.speedycables.com/greengauges/wiringcolours.html are the UK standard colours for 60s-on classic cars, mostly. See how there's a base colour and a tracer, so you know what every wire does. Or at least, what it did assuming that someone didn't alter the wiring with whatever he had to hand or even wiring stripped out of the house. Never having owned a US car before it hadn't occurred to me that AMC would use white wire for the main beam and also for the sidelights. Or was it for the indicators. Anyway, that they would use solid colour wire for two different purposes. Certainly need to be sure what you're dingdangdoing, before you start snipping away at the loom. And moreover, the same gauge. Just that on the heads, it was doubled up. Even the earths. Why double up the earths? Which reminds me, I never did find where the earths went and clean them up. Might be a bit more voltage lurking there. Ivor |
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63 Canadian Ambo 990 V8 327
74 LandRover Lightweight V8 SIII Shopping Trolley |
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tomj
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7539 |
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Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 3:13am |
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oh, i never knew there were agreed upon standards for auto wiring! or is that some british conspiracy? maybe i've got AMC Stockholm Syndrome, because i just assumed the colors were randomly chosen. WHAT AMC SEZ IS TRUTH!
knowing AMC, they may have simply had a large quantity of that color wire out in the warehouse. doubled wires?! wow, i hadn't noticed that, but in my case i set the factory wiring aside and ran my own, relays etc. now THAT would be AMC foolish frugality. like using the T96 transmission. at all, ever. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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DaemonForce
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jul/05/2012 Location: Olympia, WA Status: Offline Points: 1070 |
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Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 4:15am |
Pretty sure there is a load balancing theory in here if not for redundant continuity for chosen body grounds that were poor in the first place. It's reason enough for me to double the ground connections even after I finished rewiring my harness as I prefer to link ALL of the external grounds in the engine bay with a redundant 14AWG black wire and stainless eyeloops. Requires nothing but cutting, stripping and crimping to make it 100% and if there were any problems with the grounds before, there won't be anymore. |
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1971 Javelin SST
American 304 2v | FMX | AM20-3.31 1983 American Limited Jeep 4(.7)L S-MPFI | 1982 NWC T-5M (4.03/.76) | Dana30IFS/35-2.72 |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 5:39pm |
Do you mean two wires from each lamp to the same earth connection, or an earth wire for each side of lamps? You may wish to check European laws - it's amazing what I've found related to lighting, headlamps, etc. studying the laws of the USA. Europe had some really strong laws related to lighting - I wish the USA had kept up but we were always a bit behind (meaning too many whiners and lobbies here) (On the other hand, we didn't have to deal with Lucas electric components here! LOL) I always figure the expected load, add a tad more for just in case, look up the required gauge wire based on LENGTH and LOAD, then crimp AND solder (you can't possibly crimp like the factory and the solder ensures that simple oxidation won't creep in during your lifetime) I crimp as tight as possible, use good solder, and where it would be helpful, heat-shrink tube. In some cases I use a sealant as well. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675 |
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Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 9:11pm |
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Different regulations between Europe and US, as Billd mentioned. That's why the Renault Ramblers built in Belgium were only sold in a few European countries, and production only lasted a few years -- regulations and taxes on engine size eventually made it unprofitable.
Electricity actually flows from negative to positive -- through the body then back to the battery! Regardless of direction of flow, if one side is smaller than the other current will be limited to what the smaller wire will carry, so if you double (or enlarge) one side, have to do the same to the other. |
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Frank Swygert
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Dec/17/2017 at 9:19pm |
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Now Frank, are you talking the electron theory or hole theory? It could flow either way depending on the theory you subscribe to.
 In any case, it's easy to look at it as a chain - it's only as strong as the weakest link or the thinnest wire end to end.
But like you say - it's a fact, doesn't matter if you have 000 gauge going in if you only have 18 gauge on the ground or earth side. Or the flip - a 12 gauge ground means nothing if the supply side is only 18 gauge. And on AMC cars, with passing time that 18 gauge factory wire used for ground (earth for Brits) stinks. |
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990V8 wrote: