Stalling engine

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   Help!!!  I have a 1959 Rambler Six. It runs and idles fine but when I put it into drive or reverse it stalls out. The revs seem to be high enough. This is really annoying when I get to a traffic light and the car stalls out. It starts right back up though. What is the problem? Thanks for any suggestions.

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apollotaki Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: May/25/2017 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 91	Post Options Post Reply Quote apollotaki Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Stalling engine Posted: Nov/13/2017 at 7:57am
	Help!!! I have a 1959 Rambler Six. It runs and idles fine but when I put it into drive or reverse it stalls out. The revs seem to be high enough. This is really annoying when I get to a traffic light and the car stalls out. It starts right back up though. What is the problem? Thanks for any suggestions.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/13/2017 at 8:52am
	Try raising the idle speed just a little. Today's gasoline is different from 1960s gasoline! You might need to adjust the timing up a little also. If you pull up a hill and hear a rattle, turn it back down just a little. The factory timing spec is just a good place to start now...
	Frank Swygert

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 9057	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/13/2017 at 10:25am
	With it properly timed at spec, 5 to 8 degrees BTDC or so, try setting the hot idle with a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. True hot idle is only achieved when the engine is thoroughly warmed like after a drive or 10 minutes or more. You will adjust the idle mixture to get a smooth idle with peak vacuum for your engine, which should be about 17 or 18 inches. Disconnect the gauge. Then let the engine cool down and set your cold fast idle with a tach if you have one, or just do it by ear. Make sure the choke valve is closed to about the specification when you do this. A sticky (too far open) choke can create a too lean mixture when the engine is cold. Lean mixtures can make the engine run on the ragged edge and don't produce much power. Even dropping the transmission into gear can kill the engine. Also, if you have a vacuum leak, can be masked by a two rich choke setting with the engine cold. Check to see that the carb nuts are snug on the studs, there are no open vacuum ports, and that there are no loose fasteners (like between the throttle valve and the fuel bowl on a Carter carb). Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/14/2017 at 6:56am
	With the advent of fuel injection adjusting a carb and choke are fast becoming a lost art... adjusting timing as well!
	Frank Swygert

Pdok Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Apr/03/2011 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1025	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pdok Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/14/2017 at 7:57am
	Before timing, set the points gap and dwell. Before that, make sure the points are in good shape! Condenser also? Coil? Good ground? Then set the timing. Then adjust the carb. I always think of dwell as the foundation on which everything rests. You can chase carb for hours if the spark isn't going into the cylinder at the right time!
	76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.

andyleonard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/10/2016 Location: 90290 Status: Offline Points: 138	Post Options Post Reply Quote andyleonard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/14/2017 at 11:50am
	I had the same issue with a 59 American flathead. I had to replace the carb and also the modulator on the FlashOmatic, which I'm assuming you have. I rebuilt the carb twice and it would idle and run fine but stalled on takeoff. Must have been something stuck or worn in the carb body. The modulator had a leaky diaphragm (small vacuum leak) and was adjusted to hit too hard on takeoff. It would spin the wheels in gravel and then stall. Once that was sorted, all is good.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/15/2017 at 6:52am
	Most of the time you don't worry much about dwell. Just set the points at the gap specified and go. To adjust dwell you need a meter. IF you're going to keep the points I'd get one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-AT2150B-Digital-Tachometer-meter-TACH-DWELL-Tester-Multimeter-Ship-US/161718732166?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dfeceb8f2274f400d92c1e76c5959614e%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D21%26sd%3D302425256936&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598 It not only checks dwell, but has a tach and a multimeter for doing any electric work you might want to do on a car. Handy item and low cost! But you might want to ditch the points. They work well when cared for, but you will need to check/set the points at least once a year due to wear. About every oil change. You can forego messing with the points at all if you install a Pertronix electronic ignition module. Easy to do, fits right in place of the points. Makes an old car require a little less maintenance. You can keep a set of points and condensor in the glove box along with a screwdriver and be back running in minutes in the unlikely event the Pertronix fails also. They are about $100, but well worth it!
	Frank Swygert

vinny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837	Post Options Post Reply Quote vinny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/15/2017 at 9:37am
	Did you check that the accelerator pump on the carb is giving a good shot of fuel every time you open the throttle.

apollotaki Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: May/25/2017 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 91	Post Options Post Reply Quote apollotaki Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 7:42am
	Thank you to everyone who gave me feedback on my stalling problem. Carb., vacuum, dwell and timing suggestions were great. Great job