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Torque Tube Parts Needed

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62ramb View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/01/2017 at 7:58pm
Hello everyone! I have a 62 AMC Rambler Ambassador that's giving me a heck of a time. Now it's the driveshaft/torque tube. I'm leaking oil where I shouldn't leaking oil and there's way too much play in the driveshaft. Looking like I need to replace seals and retainer clips - all need to be replaced. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find such replacement parts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/01/2017 at 9:55pm
#1) Get an AMC Technical Service Manual on your car.
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Not 100% sure, but I think all '57 Rambler Rebel, '58-'62 Rambler Rebel/Classic/Ambassador chassis cars use the same 'T-bone' torgue tube set up (...whereas the Ambassador wheelbase from '58-'62 is made longer by extending the distance between the firewall and the front suspension)

Contact your nearest AMC club and you may find your angel there? (SoCal AMC Club? -see American Motors Owner's association (aka 'AMO') on the web also...

Contact Galvin's AMC Rambler Parts (on web) = call Doug or Benjamin on phone -both very kind polite people to become acquainted with... they love to'talk AMC' and sure know their AMC's backwards and forwards wow

...and while their website does not show it, Galvin's began business way back when Doug was able to purchase an all AMC junkyard (back in '80?) -they should have many new and used parts for your car.
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So... it's about that time to rebuild your unit... good part is how long it lasted... 56 years wow

Not 100% sure but I think the pinion seal itself is same for all AMC 8 7/8" rear axles (aka 'Model 20' axle but that name is nowhere to be found in any AMC TSM or Chilton's Repair Manual... = wrong name actually)

On some models there's a carrier bearing located midway inside the tube hopefully yours is not bad  but if so I bet Doug Galvin has or knows where to get a replacement.

The 'bad' part of this job is most likely the whole problem is caused by a worn out double u-joint (aka 'cardan joint') located right behind/inside the transmission tailshaft housing flange area.

-the double u-joint can be a toughie to overhaul if it uses the 'Dodge style' u-joints (those that have the inside C-clips to retain the u-joint cups in the yoke)

-not 100% sure about yours but some of the later mid-sixties models ('65 Marlin V8) came with an easier to rebuild double u-joint though, having the 'Ford style' outside cup retainer clips.

THIS JOB IS DIFFICULT, I DON'T WANT TO LIE TO YOU = it's not for wimps!

If you are not physically fit ~and~ mechanically inclined (more than average?) this may not be a true DIY type job... the pinion seal is kinda tricky to 'do it right' -must use sealer on the splines so axle lube does not seep through around the nut & must be super careful not to overtighten the crush sleeve or it will foul up the backlash on the ring and pinion gears...

...when you have it all apart, the transmission slip yoke bushing needs to be checked to make sure it's ok (they can be replaced without removing the transmission)

...seems unreasonable there is no experienced AMC angel in Los Angeles area who knows how to do this job... hopefully the AMC club can point you in the right direction

If you begin to find shops who might consider doing this job, be picky and don't just jump on the first shop who says they'll do it ...go with the people who seem like they actually like your car, otherwise they might be careless and damage something else on the car and/or you could get seriously gouged for labor charges and/or waiting for them forever while they wait forever to get the parts etc etc! -sorry to say it but the auto repair business is notorious for this kinda thing... proceed cautiously?

If you are optimistic and convinced you can DIY, ask that question next like 'DIY tips to overhaul '62  Ambassador torque tube?'

-hopefully this will help you get started on the path to getting your Rambler back in good working order, and hopefully you won't have to pay an arm and a leg (maybe just a finger and a toe?) -D.T.








Edited by amcenthusiast - Nov/01/2017 at 9:59pm
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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amcenthusiast View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/01/2017 at 10:10pm
...in the meantime, try parking the car with the 'nose up' on a driveway/something like that -this'll help keeping the rear axle fluid where it' supposed to be -in the axle housing...
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/02/2017 at 7:08am
There is no oil in the toque tube normally, it's dry. That means you most likely have a rear transmission seal leak. The seal is in the output shaft housing/torque tube adapter. Drop the rear axle to pull the tube and adapter off, don't try to pull/pry the axle back! That just damages the panhard rod, shocks, and strains the rubber brake line. Disconnect all those, put jack stands under the body in front of the axle, then take tires off and lower axle on floor jack from the rear of the car. Springs will fall out, and axle can be rolled back on the floor jack. Don't forget to disconnect park brake cable (from front of car). Now would be a good time to replace that old rubber brake line!

The play in the tube is probably from a disintegrated cushion in the front. Get a new one for yours from www.NashRamblerRubber.com. That is if you have the type that connects the tube to the trans with a big bolt/spring assembly on each side. The newer type has a square flange between tube and trans with four bolts. That uses a different type of rubber end.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/02/2017 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

There is no oil in the toque tube normally, it's dry. That means you most likely have a rear transmission seal leak. The seal is in the output shaft housing/torque tube adapter. Drop the rear axle to pull the tube and adapter off, don't try to pull/pry the axle back! That just damages the panhard rod, shocks, and strains the rubber brake line. Disconnect all those, put jack stands under the body in front of the axle, then take tires off and lower axle on floor jack from the rear of the car. Springs will fall out, and axle can be rolled back on the floor jack. Don't forget to disconnect park brake cable (from front of car). Now would be a good time to replace that old rubber brake line!

The play in the tube is probably from a disintegrated cushion in the front. Get a new one for yours from www.NashRamblerRubber.com. That is if you have the type that connects the tube to the trans with a big bolt/spring assembly on each side. The newer type has a square flange between tube and trans with four bolts. That uses a different type of rubber end.
I helped a friend of mine put his 1962 running gear back in. Was the first time I'd ever worked on a TT car. That big cushion is NOT cheap. But you need it....so what you going to do...
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