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Hydro-boost on a Javelin

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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/03/2017 at 6:25pm
Here is another thread on a GM hydroboost on an American.

Unlike using a 1 ton pickup hydroboost, this uses an astro van unit.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/rambler-american-hydroboost_topic42719.html

Here is another link to an eagle hydroboost setup, with working photos and a full how to.

After looking at his mod to cut and weld the old booster bracket... i think my way of removing the mounting plate and modifying it to mount to 3 of the 4 firewall studs is easier and requires no welding, nor a booster bracket. Easily clears suspension hump.

http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43869.0

Edited by 304-dude - Dec/03/2017 at 6:51pm
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2018 at 2:23pm
While I took a bit of time to help billd out with a stock console shifter installation template, i thought about giving a try with my hydroboost setup on the firewall.

Since most know i test fit on my stripped down car before making any final adjustments, so when I am done and the body comes out of the shop, i just bolt in all my mods without any fitment issues in between.

So here are the pix!





No body mods needed, once you remove the mounting plate, as the stock hole is just large enough for the threads to slide through, and the locking support nut will hold the unit from inside on the firewall. The actuating rod is about 2 inches short, as expected. I did not realise the mounting bolts to the steering support and master cylinder that pass through the firewall were swedged into flat metal bar stock. So all you need to do is remove the left side retaining stud pair, and replace with shorter bolts. They will be fastened from inside the cabin.

Will do this install as shown instead of using a mounting plate. Will be replacing the reservoir with a Ranger / Explorer version. As this install has no tilt, like the Mustang. Also, I will make a threaded coupling to extend the actuating rod out and for adjustments.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Mopar_guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2020 at 5:13pm
I found this old thread and I see I never posted what I did. I used a Chevy truck unit that I got for $45 off of a 30k mile wrecked truck. It works great. I ditched the stock GM mounting plate and made one to fit where the booster would bolt to. I never even had to adjust the pedal rod because the length was perfect.
Be sure NOT to tee the return into your power steering return hose! I know a lot of people do but if there should ever be any back pressure in that return line, you'll lose your power assist and the pedal can get hard. There are quite of people that have experienced this that I found out on the web so it's a very real issue. You can find power steering reservoirs now that have a separate return connection just for this. I choose to use a standalone reservoir that has a filter in it.

Just a note to those who use one of these, make sure the booster is full of oil when you try to bleed your brakes. I fought with my brakes trying to get a good pedal but I didn't have the hydraulic hoses yet and the booster was dry. When I got the hoses and got the system bled out, the brakes were perfect. It drove me crazy for days trying to figure it out.
One other thing, my brakes were to touchy for my liking so I started increasing the master cylinder bore size. 1 1/4" worked out nice for me. I started off with 1". Hope all this helps.



"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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motorhead_1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote motorhead_1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2020 at 6:24pm
working on hydroboost for my rebel. i need a different master cylinder reservoir.
what reservoir did you use?
i got my hydroboost and MC from Elliot at Custom Power Brake LLC
i believe this is a '10 Camaro master
that weird nipple off the driver side needs to not be there. 




69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/10/2020 at 8:05pm
I used a Dodge truck master cylinder. The original masters reservoir was HUGE and looked out of place so I had to change the whole master to get what I wanted.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote motorhead_1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/11/2020 at 6:56am
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

I used a Dodge truck master cylinder. The original masters reservoir was HUGE and looked out of place so I had to change the whole master to get what I wanted.

THX! i'll look into dodge truck masters
69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
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