Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
Hydro-boost on a Javelin |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | |
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here is another thread on a GM hydroboost on an American.
Unlike using a 1 ton pickup hydroboost, this uses an astro van unit. http://theamcforum.com/forum/rambler-american-hydroboost_topic42719.html Here is another link to an eagle hydroboost setup, with working photos and a full how to. After looking at his mod to cut and weld the old booster bracket... i think my way of removing the mounting plate and modifying it to mount to 3 of the 4 firewall studs is easier and requires no welding, nor a booster bracket. Easily clears suspension hump. http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43869.0 Edited by 304-dude - Dec/03/2017 at 6:51pm |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9081 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
While I took a bit of time to help billd out with a stock console shifter installation template, i thought about giving a try with my hydroboost setup on the firewall.
Since most know i test fit on my stripped down car before making any final adjustments, so when I am done and the body comes out of the shop, i just bolt in all my mods without any fitment issues in between. So here are the pix! No body mods needed, once you remove the mounting plate, as the stock hole is just large enough for the threads to slide through, and the locking support nut will hold the unit from inside on the firewall. The actuating rod is about 2 inches short, as expected. I did not realise the mounting bolts to the steering support and master cylinder that pass through the firewall were swedged into flat metal bar stock. So all you need to do is remove the left side retaining stud pair, and replace with shorter bolts. They will be fastened from inside the cabin. Will do this install as shown instead of using a mounting plate. Will be replacing the reservoir with a Ranger / Explorer version. As this install has no tilt, like the Mustang. Also, I will make a threaded coupling to extend the actuating rod out and for adjustments. |
|
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
|
Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4805 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I found this old thread and I see I never posted what I did. I used a Chevy truck unit that I got for $45 off of a 30k mile wrecked truck. It works great. I ditched the stock GM mounting plate and made one to fit where the booster would bolt to. I never even had to adjust the pedal rod because the length was perfect. Be sure NOT to tee the return into your power steering return hose! I know a lot of people do but if there should ever be any back pressure in that return line, you'll lose your power assist and the pedal can get hard. There are quite of people that have experienced this that I found out on the web so it's a very real issue. You can find power steering reservoirs now that have a separate return connection just for this. I choose to use a standalone reservoir that has a filter in it. Just a note to those who use one of these, make sure the booster is full of oil when you try to bleed your brakes. I fought with my brakes trying to get a good pedal but I didn't have the hydraulic hoses yet and the booster was dry. When I got the hoses and got the system bled out, the brakes were perfect. It drove me crazy for days trying to figure it out. One other thing, my brakes were to touchy for my liking so I started increasing the master cylinder bore size. 1 1/4" worked out nice for me. I started off with 1". Hope all this helps. |
|
"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
|
motorhead_1
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2014 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 1000 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
working on hydroboost for my rebel. i need a different master cylinder reservoir.
what reservoir did you use? i got my hydroboost and MC from Elliot at Custom Power Brake LLC i believe this is a '10 Camaro master that weird nipple off the driver side needs to not be there. |
|
69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
|
|
Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4805 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I used a Dodge truck master cylinder. The original masters reservoir was HUGE and looked out of place so I had to change the whole master to get what I wanted.
|
|
"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
|
motorhead_1
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2014 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 1000 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
THX! i'll look into dodge truck masters
|
|
69 SC/Rambler tribute 401/th400, 68 Rebel SST LSA, 66 F100 460/c6, 88 Merkur Xr4Ti, 71 Jaguar XJ6 LS1, 08 Supercharged Tundra
|
|
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |