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Electric fan on stock generator |
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65American 
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Joined: Jan/27/2017 Location: connecticut Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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 Topic: Electric fan on stock generatorPosted: Aug/23/2017 at 7:51pm |
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When I purchased my 64 American 440 195.6 it had an electric fan on the radiator bought the fan kit with radiator prod wired it up fan works but seems that when it’s been running for a while my voltage drops from 13/13.5 at 2k rpm to 12.5 car runs like crap I do have the points conversion from hot spark with correct coil thinking of putting a mechanical fan back on or finally doing alternator conversion seems the problems start with that electric fan... anyone use an electric fan on their 195.6 with factory generator success I have read that the fan pulls too much draw on generator... |
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andyleonard
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Joined: Dec/10/2016 Location: 90290 Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: Aug/23/2017 at 8:18pm |
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Put an ammeter on it and see what it's really doing. If the volts are going below resting voltage while trying to charge, you're losing ground and you're probably overdriving the 35 amp generator and you'll roast it. Must be a big fan.
Shut the fan off and drive the car. If it runs fine without the fan draw and runs badly with the fan on, you need more juice. One wire alternator is a cheap fix. You really need all that fan?
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/23/2017 at 10:40pm |
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35 amp? more like 20! and only at 2000 or up...
as a diehard fool for old gear, i stuck with a generator in mine for as long as i could stand it, and finally gave in and installed a tiny forklift alternator, good for 35 amps. it's been great. i did run a pair of small electric fans (two 10") with the gennie. here's the catch: * on the highway there's plenty of air and plenty of generator juice, and you don't need to run the fan. not a problem. battery charges up fine. * in town, you need the fan, and the generator doesn't put out diddly squat. the car is running mainly off the battery. if your battery is good, that's OK, assuming you eventually drive it fast enough to charge it back up. you have a thermostat or something i hope? if it's running all the time, that won't work out. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 6:32am |
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Sounds like you're just running the fan all the time, and TomJ explained why that doesn't work well. Get a thermostat controller for it and you should be fine. The cheap adjustable probe type work fine, and easier to install. If you use a screw in set temp probe you will need an adapter that goes in the radiator hose. I'd put it in the bottom hose, and near the bottom outlet is where I put the probes in my car (have two fans on two different controllers, one adjust to come on slightly after the other). Just make sure the probes can't come out. I stick them through the core, don't use the piece that comes with them to mount just outside and almost against the core. Mounted that way they are more susceptible to ambient temperatures and don't seem to work as well as through the core.
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Frank Swygert
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andyleonard
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Joined: Dec/10/2016 Location: 90290 Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 11:53am |
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OP says in original post - although it's hard to read with no punctuation - that he bought the probe kit and installed it. Maybe it's set wrong.
FYI my stock generator makes 35A on the meter when the field is shorted. If anyone wants to know how long a stock generator will make 35A before it melts the armature, I can help with that.
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 11:02pm |
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oopsie. btw, partially unrelated here, i had one of those probe type thermostats, the stupid thing always leaked (snaked under the hose, with that provided foam strip, etc, ugh) and in ended up simply laying in the solder seam of the radiator top tank, and a thin film of silicone to hold it in place. it was AS GOOD AS inserted into the water. its not like .020" of brass is not gonna be thermally coupled! setting it is guess work. mine didn't seem to have hysteresis, (eg. OFF at a lower temperature than ON). i guess set it right when the top tank (hot water from engine) is 5 degrees over thermostat temp.
huh, doing a little science experiment are we? funny, the Corvair i ran the LeMons rally with last week melted commutator bars and flung a a bunch of them around inside. it them became a large and heavy idler pulley. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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65American
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Joined: Jan/27/2017 Location: connecticut Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 2:44pm |
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Ok found out the battery. Is bad. Yes I added the fan kit with probe.
adjusted it to kick off at 190 degrees car runs fine now. Replaced Generator brushes I get close to 13v at idle. It jumps to around 13.5v at 2k rpm..I do have a shutter or miss thinking carb needs tuning timing etc |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 3:53pm |
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glad it worked out!
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 4:01pm |
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A generator will put out a bit more power as the rpm goes up. Those probes work well stuck in the core or on a metal part of the radiator. Rubber hose insulates too much. The little foam and zip tie like mount that comes with them are made to put it outside the core, on the back (engine) side. As I said, ambient temp makes them less than reliable -- mounted that way I had to reset it in summer and winter. Pushed in the core (or mounted as TomJ did) they work real good. I have used a small zip tie on the end to keep it from coming out, if it goes all the way through the radiator. My current setup won't work that way. I just hooked the probe wire behind the lower radiator hose clamp. The probe came out not long after I put it in -- thought I was having an issue with the controller, but saw probe dangling when I popped the hood... no wonder fan hadn't come on!
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Frank Swygert
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andyleonard wrote: