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Old School Ansen Style Mags

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pacerman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Old School Ansen Style Mags
    Posted: Jun/19/2017 at 8:49pm
I have a set of these that I am trying to install as rollers while I get my rally wheels sandblasted and powdercoated, ready for refinishing.

What is the secret to installing the lugnuts?  They are straight shank, barely fit through the wheel lug openings and have captive washers.  It appears that they would be easy to crossthread on my lugs which are in very good condition.  Are the shanks supposed to be greased?  anti-seize used?  I must have missed the whole aluminum wheel craze in my youth.  

Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/19/2017 at 8:57pm
A wee trick with blind threading any screw or nut.

Bottom lightly while turning counter clockwise. You should feel a small give as it bottoms in position to be threaded. Then rotate clockwise to thread. Never cross threaded doing that procedure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 12:41am
i dont care about conventional wisdom -- i lubricate all wheel studs and nuts. i use that silver stuff that turns you into the Tin Man from WIZARD OF OZ no matter how careful you are with it. very little needed.

304-dude's trick is indeed the dung, as the kids say today. or did say, some years ago. ok i'm old.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 6:55am
Silver anti-seize... I use it also, have for years!!  Doesn't matter is you use the silver or copper colored anti-seize...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 9:00am
Okay,  the main problem is that some of the lug openings in the mags are galled and the correct lug nuts do not fit easily down in to the openings.  I understand that the clearances are supposed to be small, but if the lugs don't easily fit they are impossible to thread onto the studs.  At any rate, the wheels are only being used to support the car while the rallies are off being refinished.  So I am making do with two or three lug nuts on each wheel and not sweating the missing nuts.  I have learned that I would never want this type of wheel on any of my cars.  I am wondering though about the correct way to lightly clean the holes so the next guy could use the wheels if someone wants them.  Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyleonard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 10:15am
Unless you've got the wrong parts or the wrong bolt pattern, just tape 3-4" of emery cloth to a drill bit and hone out the holes in the wheels. If the lugs are cranked down too hard they will distort the wheel holes and gum things up. Racecar does it all the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2017 at 5:48pm
I got the wheels on the car.  Thanks for the tips.  I also learned that it helps to measure the diameter of the shanks of the lug nuts.  There was about three thousandths of an inch difference in the diameters between the short shank lug nuts and the long shank nuts that I have.  I used the long shank nuts which engage more of the threads on the lugs anyway and tossed the oversize short shank nuts because I don't want to go through this again.   Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote one bad rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2017 at 8:31pm
I glad you got them on ...the key is extended wheel studs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 990V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/22/2017 at 5:11pm
One problem with anti-seize, indeed about the only problem, is that to an extent it acts as a lube. This throws out the torque reading if one is using a torque wrench. And that of course can lead to things being overtightened.

Main problem I had with alloys back in the day is that if not removed for a long time they can weld themselves to the brake drum. Recall with our Peugeot 205 having to take a sledge and a block of wood to get the rears off. After that I always greased the back of the wheels.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2017 at 10:02am
Originally posted by 990V8 990V8 wrote:

.....Main problem I had with alloys back in the day is that if not removed for a long time they can weld themselves to the brake drum. Recall with our Peugeot 205 having to take a sledge and a block of wood to get the rears off. After that I always greased the back of the wheels.

Ivor


I'm a big fan of anti-seize too.  I paint the register portion of an alloy wheel with anti-seize to prevent that corrosion attachment.

Just an FYI, got problems with corrosion on a battery terminal?  Anti-seize is your friend here also.
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