power master starter solenoid wiring ?

Basically the yellow wire will put 12v bypassing the resistor wire if your oem ignition has a resistance wire for the coil.

You can put the yellow wire to an automotive relay connected to switch with 12v from the battery. Reason is if ignition draws a high enough current, it may disable the starter solenoid from allowing the starter to run. Usually most relays and solenoids have a difficult time switching when the input to switch has to split power to another source. This is because the length and gauge of the wire limiting how much can flow through the path. Look at it as a double sink vs a single sink with a spray nozzle just able to fill both double sinks. The single sink will fill faster because flow is not shared.

It may work without the relay, but best practices tell me to add it and have it work dependably and function like the original solenoid.

Technically it would, but the difference is the original solenoid uses an internal connection from starter side of the output. Since the starter power is so far away with the new setup. It would be safer by connecting a relay from the battery and have it switched by a jumper to the starter solenoid start wire, which will keep e ignition from loading down the input to the solenoids activation. A solenoid does not take much current, but if the voltage drops by ignition activation from the post, it may cause a weak contact to provide voltage to the starter. It may not show up instantly noticable, but after time, you could make the solenoid faulty, by either burning up the contact plate, by arcing from slow or weak contact.

It's all electronic theory, but I am looking at long term reliability. After all who knows a few years you may replace the solenoid and not know why or how things interact.

The reason the GM type starter does not have an ignition feed, is because HEI does not require the ignition resistance wire bypass to start reliably. If electronic ignition, or changing to a performance coil, that ignition circuit is not needed, and would be removed, as the resistance wire would be replaced by a switched battery feed from the ignition switch.

Thanks for the help.

I understand starting Is easier. Mainly the solenoid being on the starter. The extra run of cable can act like a resistor when the starter is hot and able to draw more current than what the cable can provide. Cutting the middle man is a good thing. Considering the starter myself, but I think by moving the stock solenoid near the firewall and Shortening the starter cable by 1/2 should be a good improvement with starting issues with existing parts on hot engines.

I completely re-wired the engine compartment and integrated everything. Before it had been converted from 6 to 8 and extra wires run, then MSD, fans etc added. Wiring was a real mess. Used a fusible link from the starter to power everything for safety, and as able to take a huge amount of wires out with some thought. The only thing I could not arrange was the stock fusible link for the horn (69 Rambler) so I used an inline fuse for that. Put the circuit breaker for the electric fan in a location I can use it for timing light power. Even have back-up lights for the first time ever.