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brake booster adjustment rod

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johnsjavelin View Drop Down
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    Posted: Dec/27/2016 at 8:50am
Hi I have 72 Javelin AMX with front discs and drum rears.In my restoration replaced all  brake lines ,brake proportioning valve, booster , master cylinder ,rotors , calibers  wheel cylinders and all brakes.   I have the 73/4 booster  . I adjusted the push  rod  to tsm specs 1.200 and when  adjusting the rod it pulled out of the booster socket then I pushed it back  in.  I bleed the master cylinder on the car ( I bent the old  lines to make  bleeder lines into the master)  I do not get any air  bubbles for the rear brakes . Do I need to lenghthen the  rod ? Tell me what I did wrong . No motor in car  putting it in this week  TSmilehanks 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/27/2016 at 9:01am
Probably bad lines or the tee block. You can reset the pressure at the distribution block, by having someone hit the brakes when you pull up on the pin. The pin can be accessed by removing the brake warning wire.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/27/2016 at 11:14am
Originally posted by johnsjavelin johnsjavelin wrote:

..... I bleed the master cylinder on the car ( I bent the old  lines to make  bleeder lines into the master)  I do not get any air  bubbles for the rear brakes . Do I need to lenghthen the  rod ? Tell me what I did wrong ......


Your bleeder lines, did you run them directly from the master cylinder ports back into the reservoirs?  Did you follow the bleeding instructions that came with the new master cylinder to the letter?  If so you may not have a problem.  Just because you have no bubbles doesn't necessarily mean it isn't bled.  Have someone run the brakes and look at the reservoir carefully, usually you can tell if you have flow out of the bleeder tubes by looking for 'ripples' in the reservoir.  And that's really what you are trying to achieve, flow.
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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johnsjavelin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnsjavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/28/2016 at 6:18am
 Ok I did Use the old brake lines and put the bent tubes in the master and  fluid did flow a little  bit in the rear  brake reservoir. I will  be
bleeding the system this weekend. Put the 401 in yesterday tranny 727 today    Thanks
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53w View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 53w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/28/2016 at 11:40am
Years ago i changed master cylinder on my 74 javelin had no bubbles that we saw and everything worked fine. I Changed booster and installed new master this fall had lots of bubbles to deal with. Some times you get lucky and it goes better then normal?

After rereading original post, with that much work done you should of had bubbles. Just may need to keep bleeding until they show up. We alway bleed shortest line first on each set until bubbles stop then go to other side. Start with front set then rear set.

Edited by 53w - Dec/30/2016 at 9:32am
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White70JavelinSST View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/04/2017 at 9:23am
The master bleeds a lot better on the bench. Most instructions mention the master needs to be level. It's possible to get that in the car, however, if the master is not level, tiny bubbles will stay trapped in the master bore.

The last time I dealt with bleeding brakes I used a syringe (rather large one) I purchased for mixing two cycle oil/gas in small quantities for a chainsaw. (cheap method, vacuum bleeding tools are available) I put a round or two of teflon thread tape on each bleeder thread to seal it best.  You may get good results without putting teflon on the threads, but when I tried it the bubbles never stopped until I put teflon on the threads.  I used a long vinyl tube from the syringe to the bleeder. I looped the tube above the bleeder with the syringe below the bleeder.  I could watch as bubbles went up into the loop. When the bubbles stopped appearing I called it good. I got a very solid pedal as a result.
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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