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Spirit clutch T.O. bearing

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mikouj View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/25/2016 at 6:27am
The factory built my 79 Spirit with an auto trans; I don't suffer auto transmissions. I swapped it for an SR4.  All 4 cyl AMCs 79-83 and 6 cyl Eagles come with hydraulic clutch linkage while 6 cyl Spirits & Concord use mechanical linkage.  Rather than finding all the parts necessary to use the mechanical setup for my 6 cyl Spirit, I went with the hydraulic.  2 issues with the conversion: mounting the clutch master cylinder in the firewall was a female canine and the fork was too far back in the side slot of the bellhousing to allow the clutch to disengage.  I modified the fork pedestal and ball by making it longer by a half inch, essentially moving the ball closer toward the flywheel.

The TSM shows that all models use the same throwout bearing, a unit with 2 spring steel clips which hold it to the clutch fork.  The hydraulic linkage has no provision for adjustment, so the T.O. is always in contact with the pressure plate fingers,  in other words, no free pedal is available.

When I was putting it all together with a new 10" clutch, I thought that the new bearing was a little loose, not a tight bearing and unlikely to hold up for a lot of miles when in constant mesh.  How right I was.  A week or so ago while driving at 30 - 50 mph I heard chirping, squeaking noises. Yesterday while idling I heard the same. From under the driver's sill, I can see and hear the T.O. bearing is gone in only about 8000 miles from new.

How does the factory hydraulic setup get a long service life from that chintsy bearing when in constant contact?  Can anybody suggest a more robust replacement?
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tyrodtom View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2016 at 9:44am
I had a similar problem with the hydraulic clutch on a Nissan, the throwout bearing stayed in contact with the pressure plate fingers.

I drilled a small hole in the clutch arm and installed a small spring that pulled the clutch arm forward and pulled the throwout bearing back enough that it cleared the pressure plate fingers.
The spring had no noticeable effect on clutch effort.

There has to be something wrong with any clutch system that allows constant contact between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers,  something has to be out of tolerance, or air in the fluid not allowing the piston in the slave cylinder to retract enough.

I didn't take the time to figure out what the exact cause was, but my fix has worked for years.




Edited by tyrodtom - Sep/25/2016 at 10:20am
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2016 at 5:00pm
Originally posted by tyrodtom tyrodtom wrote:

I drilled a small hole in the clutch arm and installed a small spring that pulled the clutch arm forward and pulled the throwout bearing back enough that it cleared the pressure plate fingers.

the older manual linkage systems have that spring, at least. it does seem like an obvious need. with the Z-bar type linkage there's obviously a lot of play to take up. there's two springs on the fork; one to the lever that the pushrod is bolted to (keeps the pushrod in it's socket) and another to pull the whole thing away, by default, from the TO bearing, for precisely your reason.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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