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What will fit in a 62 American?

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2016 at 7:00am
Bear in mind that fuel injected four puts out about the same power as a stock 304 2V. Not quite the torque at low rpm, and driving characteristics are different, but matched with the proper trans and rear axle ratio you won't notice. Biggest thing is the 2.5L Ranger engine will have more power than the 196. It's rated at 117 hp, but that's a NET rating. The 196 with 125 hp GROSS (2V version) is about 90-95 hp NET.  In mid 2001 a new 2.3L was introduced with 143 hp and a five speed auto trans. That 2001-2011 2.3L with 5 speed auto might be the better choice, but I haven't seen one to know if it will fit.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2016 at 6:27pm
At face value comparing an inline four of 2.5L or 153 Cu to a V8 of 304 cu in by saying they are rated at the same HP and calling it even is a bit like comparing apples to oranges.
The 153 cu in 4 cylinder engine is rated (depending on the year) at 119Hp at 5000 rpm, while the V8 of 304 cu in is rated at 125HP at 3200 rpm a significant difference in rpm will affect final gearing choices and transmissions.
For example, the V8 rated a 125HP at 3200 rpm will also develop according to the math involved, 205 Lb Ft of torque at that rpm.
The 4 cylinder engine rated at 119HP @5000 rpm will develop about half the Torque or 125Lb Ft at 5000 rpm.

Now while to some that is gobbledygook, it means that depending on whether you need grunt to move things or HP to get something down the road the curves are developed differently between the two engines and that is going to significantly alter drive ratio and transmission choices.
Frankly I build and think in terms of HP and have built and run 4 and 6 cylinder engines along with V8's. And about 1HP/Cu in is usually fairly easily obtainable using standard over the counter parts.
My 6's will easily pull 2.53:1 rear axle ratio's found OEM in the last of the AMC I-6 cars as standard issue and I use either a 5 speed or an automatic with a 2200 rpm stall and a lock up feature.
But to expect to drop in a 4 cylinder engine that needs 5000 rpm to develop it's comparable to V8 HP And have it pull a tall final drive is expecting a bit much.
It is not going to be easy to drop in a different engine in an early AMC car and one has to expect a compromise some where in doing so.
My preference other than staying with OEM and making it work, is to use a V8 and deal with changing out the front suspension to something like a FATMAN front end which gets things up to date and parts availability and putting sheet metal in the engine compartment to make room for a V8 after the spring humps are removed because the springs are no longer there.
And frankly for ease of updating the drive train? A SBC has all kinds of transmission options that an older AMC V8 does not have at all.
I have a 350 Cu In GM V8 with a 700 R4 installed in a Hornet running and drivable for under $1000.00 doing most of the work myself.
That was picked largely because of the options available for the package.
And it was selected over using a 232 with a 4bbl and a 5 speed or a 904 or a 360 with a 5 speed or a 904 both of which I also had. I do not regret installing it, the versatility has paid for itself at the present and the cost benefit is still way higher.
I dunno for each their own I guess, when I get the Sportabout painted and finished, the 360 will go in a hatch back. The rest? Will get sold. I guess.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMCnoob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/03/2016 at 5:00pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:


2. You could use a Mustang II crossmember made for a narrow 1930s car frame. I think Fat Man's at least used to advertise a 1950 Nash Rambler crossmember. There is still some cutting and welding to do -- I'd stick with the stock suspension and cut the humps. You can use a universal engine mount crossmember made for a narrow 30s car frame to mount the engine - weld or bolt in.


Surprisingly enough, the frame rails on that thing are around 29 inches apart once you get down under the inner fender aprons.  My 69 mustang is has close to the same spacing.  So far I am leaning towards putting a mustang II front end under it.  I am going to rip the 196 out this coming weekend and will take measurements before and after taking the motor out for spindle location and such.  I need to verify the wheel track and see how that compares to the mustang II cross members wheel track.  Thus far 302 is leading candidate.  I'd have no moral issues with a Chevy 350. Only issue with those would be a tad wider, but once I am done that's not an issue.  The fact the distributor is in the back and the firewall will be close is a bigger factor not to use a 350.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/03/2016 at 5:26pm
Agreed on the 302  vs. 350 being an easier install. You can still use the stock suspension with new springs, about 14% stiffer than stock. I used 12% stiffer for better handling with the 196 and found that to be pretty much ideal. I'd go only one or two percent more with the V-8, as it's only 40 pounds or so heavier than the old 196. 

Wouldn't be hard to use the original suspension, quick and easy to just disassemble, clean, make a couple simple mods for better lubrication, assemble, and off you go. Lots more work to cut it up and weld in the MII, and would cost a bit more. 

Either way works, whichever way you go keep us posted! Will advise where I can...
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMCnoob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/03/2016 at 5:57pm
I am still deciding on the mustang II.  Once the motor is out I am gonna remove the fenders and look everything over.  The car from the outside is rust free.  The front frame has some bubbles and I looked up under the fender.  The spring tower looks pretty rough.  Or well feels pretty rough.  Once the fenders are off I will figure out which path I am going.  I am pretty much set on a 302. 
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