Clutch disc for 63 Classic

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i've done a lot of research on clutch discs this summer and fall. there are a number of possibilities, but resolving it may take someone willing to spend $50 to find out. for example:
1980 (and other years) Mustang 3.3L (200 ci) six manual trans, uses a clutch with the same dimensions as the Rambler part; 8" or 8.5", 10 spline x 1" shaft, sprung hub. 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1980,mustang,3.3l+200cid+l6,1133299,transmission-manual,clutch+friction+disc,10605?a=Ad+Code+avl1976470c1133299

this will definitely slide onto the transmission shaft, fit under the pressure plate and all that. diameter and spline dimensions can be found online easily enough. but there's one dimension that needs measuring: the positioning of the splined hub relative to the clutch surface, i'll call this hub depth.

so i bought sight-unseen a Buick application clutch disc that is 9" diameter, 10 spline 1-1/16" shaft. this is the common AMC six cyl clutch (and in my case SR4/T4/T5 transmission with an AMC pressure plate on the 195.6 OHV).

below are pics of a used AMC 9" and the Buick app disc, not the 8" 10x1 American clutch. however the alternate selection issues i describe apply directly.

here are the two discs side by side. the used one is the AMC part.

here is the used AMC clutch hub, both sides:

and here is the Buick app clutch, both sides:

in this, my, case i think i can mock it all up, using the T14 i have as stand-in, and see how this disc works out. the portion towards the crankshaft extends only 1/8" further than the AMC part, but the transmission side is shorter, the effect is that the clutch disc rides more towards the tip of the transmission input shaft. if its fully engaged with all splines that will be fine. 

someone should gamble wit hthat Mustang part above, you can always return it, and be out only shipping cost. heck i'd split the cost with you to get the information. 

Edited by tomj - Sep/17/2016 at 11:43am

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tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/17/2016 at 11:40am
	i've done a lot of research on clutch discs this summer and fall. there are a number of possibilities, but resolving it may take someone willing to spend $50 to find out. for example: 1980 (and other years) Mustang 3.3L (200 ci) six manual trans, uses a clutch with the same dimensions as the Rambler part; 8" or 8.5", 10 spline x 1" shaft, sprung hub. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1980,mustang,3.3l+200cid+l6,1133299,transmission-manual,clutch+friction+disc,10605?a=Ad+Code+avl1976470c1133299 this will definitely slide onto the transmission shaft, fit under the pressure plate and all that. diameter and spline dimensions can be found online easily enough. but there's one dimension that needs measuring: the positioning of the splined hub relative to the clutch surface, i'll call this hub depth. so i bought sight-unseen a Buick application clutch disc that is 9" diameter, 10 spline 1-1/16" shaft. this is the common AMC six cyl clutch (and in my case SR4/T4/T5 transmission with an AMC pressure plate on the 195.6 OHV). below are pics of a used AMC 9" and the Buick app disc, not the 8" 10x1 American clutch. however the alternate selection issues i describe apply directly. here are the two discs side by side. the used one is the AMC part. here is the used AMC clutch hub, both sides: and here is the Buick app clutch, both sides: in this, my, case i think i can mock it all up, using the T14 i have as stand-in, and see how this disc works out. the portion towards the crankshaft extends only 1/8" further than the AMC part, but the transmission side is shorter, the effect is that the clutch disc rides more towards the tip of the transmission input shaft. if its fully engaged with all splines that will be fine. someone should gamble wit hthat Mustang part above, you can always return it, and be out only shipping cost. heck i'd split the cost with you to get the information. Edited by tomj - Sep/17/2016 at 11:43am
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

dlezama Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2016 Location: Mexico Status: Offline Points: 49	Post Options Post Reply Quote dlezama Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/23/2016 at 9:57am
	Guys, any pointers on getting the rear axle out of the way? The TSM is pretty straightforward but I dont see the diff clearing the muffer easily, or how much the torque tube has to pull out of the trans. I plan on changing all engine and trans mounts but sont know at what point should gthese be removed/ moved out of the way. The TSM says something about unbolting brake lines? Pointers from anyone who has done this? a step by step guide? I plan the clutch service to be as simple and direct as possible. Thanks in advance!

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/23/2016 at 10:26am
	You just need to pull the torque tube back enough for the splined end of the shaft to clear the rear of the transmission. Not far, maybe 8 inches or so. I have replaced the clutch on my 64 Classic so I know what you are facing. One person can do it alone. Get good jack stands. Get the car high enough that you can handle the transmission when you are removing and replace it. You won't need a transmission jack, but one can help if you get the car high enough. You can either remove the rear wheels and roll the drive train back on the wheels of your jack or leave the wheels on if you have the car high enough. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/24/2016 at 5:28pm
	i've done it too. what pacerman says. the TSM helps. you wanna take the rear brake line bracket off so that the line can bend down to increase range. gotta get the car up HIGH so you can roll it out with tires, or some other means (skateboard under each brake drum -- im not kidding). up high enough and it'll clear the gas tank etc. oh, it's a PITA. :-) if you need some yankin', nylon ratchet cargo straps work great. you can operate them with one hand under the car, low profile, infinitely adjustable, a fair amount of force, and it applies force gently, eg. it ain't a chain or hook on a comealong. the pre-64 Americans, with the "big nut" rear have a similar problem, it all comes out as an annoying piece. the ratchet straps made it possible, at all.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

dlezama Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2016 Location: Mexico Status: Offline Points: 49	Post Options Post Reply Quote dlezama Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/27/2016 at 10:32am
	Thanks for all the great advice! I still have some doubts, the TSM says the rear shocks and the brake lines should be detached, but nothing is said of the panhard bar and the springs. I assume you disconnect the bar at the body mount, but can the springs hold on if the rear axle is moved back eight inches? Also, the side mounts of the trans are supposed to pivot down for the axle to clear? Thanks!!

tomj Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555	Post Options Post Reply Quote tomj Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/28/2016 at 2:54pm
	oh, panhard and springs need to come out. the panhard only, really as the coil springs will simply fall out when you remove shocks and panhard, and jack it high enough. front coils are a dangerous PITA, rears, simple! the panhard will be "hard" only because the bolt probably hasn't been loosened since assembled new.
	1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto 1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com

dlezama Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2016 Location: Mexico Status: Offline Points: 49	Post Options Post Reply Quote dlezama Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/29/2016 at 10:13am
	Ok folks! Will tell how it all comes together in the next few weeks! Thanks!

dlezama Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2016 Location: Mexico Status: Offline Points: 49	Post Options Post Reply Quote dlezama Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Nov/06/2016 at 8:33pm
	Clutch work came out fantastic. I am very grateful to you guys. What a fine driving car the 63 Classic is.