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1971 Javelin SST

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DaemonForce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2016 at 1:48pm
I have done a straight across L6 to L6 swap in an Eagle wagon complete with discrepancies on engine mounting brackets, oil pickup and pan clearances, crossmember clearances, varying distributor models and just completed a swap where I went from a 3spd torqueflite to a Borg Warner 5spd. I can tell you about expensive and hidden costs. I'm not going to find a 304 that I can just drop in. It will require a teardown and possibly more attention because of the Jeep to AMC dimensioning and clearance fiasco. I am not here for that. I am here to gather information from those that have done a L4 to V8 swap, which is most likely going to be from someone here with a 79 Spirit or an 81 CJ since those two specifically had the entire breadth of L4, both L6s and the V8 currently eating my attention. If someone here has information on bracketry to use on a V8 to L4 swap, that helps. If there's any note of cutting or welding involved, I'm moving on to an expensive straight forward V8 swap.
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ccowx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ccowx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2016 at 2:15pm
Sounds like the voice of experience! Good luck and I will look forward to seeing what comes of it.

Chris 
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DaemonForce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2016 at 6:21pm
So here's an update, I just did a compression test and here are the results. It tends to jump all over the place at idle but slowly leaks down from peak pressure after being revved some. I don't understand how this runs at all:

#1: 75-175PSI 

FIRE 

#3: 85-125PSI 

COLD 

#5: 70-125PSI 

COLD 

#7: 90-125PSI 

COLD 

 

#2: 80-145PSI 

FIRE 

#4: 85-140PSI 

FIRE 

#6: 90-155PSI 

FIRE 

#8: 90-145PSI 

FIRE


Should I pull the valve covers off? Ermm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2016 at 6:25pm
Pulling valve covers are not going to do much for firing the cold plugs.

I suggest swapping hot plugs with cold. See if the issues with firing follow the troubled plugs.

If not, swap plug wires if long enough.

Check under the distributor cap for deposites at the rotor tip and plug contacts.


71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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DaemonForce View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2016 at 7:27pm
The contacts are fine. Distributor cap is clean on inside and outside but starting to gain powder on the outside from reusing the OEM plug wires. Distributor shaft has about 1/8" of vertical play. Not fond of that at all.

The longer I looked at this today the more I wondered if I wiped out a cam lobe. I guess the compression test ruled that out. Still, I can't help but wonder why it's all over the place. Maybe it just needs to be gone through. It's been sitting for 20+ years anyway. A lot has changed since then, most of it for the better.
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