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respect for the 195.6 OHV...

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2016 at 7:11pm
About the same performance I got from mine over 14 years of driving. Drive it hard and it will use some oil, but not much. A quart in 1000 hard miles wasn't bad back then. If you'd only known about retorquing the head you'd have been okay on the return trip...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2016 at 7:59pm
I had that head off while I was in Utah, to mill it,  and do some modifications in the intake trough,  but evidently I made a error when I reinstalled it.  That trip back was only about 6 months after I put the head back on.

  It was showing slight signs of a problem before I took off, but I ignored them.  Live and learn.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2016 at 6:14pm
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

I grew up driving V8's. My Wagoneer has a 360 and my parents' Ambassador a 327. Those were my standard for power.

I looked down on six cylinder engines for a long time. I thought they were weak and underpowered. Unable to get out of their own way.

Then I bought one and realized I was wrong the whole time. My 232 just finished another 1200 mile road trip at 80 MPH with the A/C on the whole way. Never had to raise the hood. Wonderful engines. I love six cylinders now.

But most people are obsessed with muscle cars, and that means V8's. That's all they care about, and it's sadder than heck.

that pretty much parallels my experiences. sixes were something to get rid of ASAP!

...then the store-bought high-power V8 happened. power in the 60's, 70's, was mysterious, took real knowledge to make (i was definitely not skilled enough). now with 1000 hp crate motors, and 40 years of computers applied to them, massive power is no big deal. annoyingly, you can simply go out and buy any computer-tuned exhaust note you want. my next muffler will be quiet! lol

so ekeing out power, reliability, and plain old PHUN from an ancient six is all the fun -- for me -- of the past, plus some. i got 22 mpg on that 2000 mile rally, if my gearing was better (working on that) performance-wise it would have been modestly impressive. to some of us, anyhoo :-)

but some people just plain like tire-spinning torque and are happy to just buy it. to each their own poison! lol

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2016 at 6:19pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

I can see an oil heating issue though. It's a thick, heavy block. Coupled with the head getting pretty hot the oil has too. Certainly won't hurt to run an oil cooler. You have a remote filter -- easy to put a cooler in the return line. You're running yours harder than what most would consider normal -- at least for the time period the car was designed for. Probably close to normal for a car made over the last 20 years though.

i think it's as you say. just got tqo more temperature sensors, one for the block one for the oil. will report back when i have data and results.


Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Good news on the ARP studs. They should in theory be the solution and not require retorquing ever, but I just wouldn't risk it. You still have to adjust valves, and the bolts are right there. Quick and easy to stick a torque wrench on and pull until it clicks.

oh, agreed! i usually do -- didn't this last valve adjustment. which, by the way, it didn't need. which is also probably related to head cooling, headbolt torque, and general cooling issues. i checked each one, no change.

annual check is all it seems to need. it shouldn't be rocket science, and no longer seems to. i've never heard of another post-war engine with that weird need to retorque.


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2016 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

About the same performance I got from mine over 14 years of driving. Drive it hard and it will use some oil, but not much. A quart in 1000 hard miles wasn't bad back then. If you'd only known about retorquing the head you'd have been okay on the return trip...

oil chemistry and quality is much better today, too.

mine stopped using any oil at all after i replumbed the PCV system. i moved the PCV to the top of the valve cover, welded a (thin) baffle under it, sealed the vents at the ends of the valve cover. my half-fast theory is that ventilating the crankcase via the head pulls air through the many drainback holes, front to rear, instead of the wide open side cover area where the draft tube was. i just sealed that off. it's not sucking oil into the valve. the head lubrication is sourced off the main gallery directly, like the old motors, not the camshaft-intermittent source. lots of oil and full pressure in the main gallery, measured from the hole closest to the head supply line.

i changed the oil the night before the rally, and when i got back it was precisely the same level on the stick. Mobil 1 15W-50, the high-zinc stuff. which is possibly a waste, but oil's cheaper than engines. overkill is my new minimum standard! lol

eventually ring wear etc will kick in if i don't refresh the motor before then i assume. i can't think of any way that overlubricating an engine has a downside! (other than froth, splash, etc)


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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