'64 Ambassador NEED HELP!

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   I have a 1964 Rambler Ambassador 2 door hard top. This car was left to me by my father and he always too very good care of it. Since his passing I have had the 327 engine rebuilt from top to bottom, and also the automatic borg warner transmission. For as far back as I can remember the car has had a very slight shake at 55 or so mph. I never thought much of it as I knew that when the engine and trans were rebuilt I was going to give the car a good once over. 
When the engine was out getting rebuilt I decided I wanted to completely rebuild the front end including new disc brakes. I installed later amc discs and removed everything from the front steering and suspension and detailed it installing again with all new parts. New trunnions, ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, strut rod bushings, ect. The only parts that were not changed in the front was the stock coil springs. Front end is tight and drives great. While I had everything apart I got a new drive shaft from Galvins with the "upgraded" single u-joint, and also had a very good used torque tube I installed (the rubber trunnion looked perfect, thought a slight bend in the torque tube might cause the vibration so I changed it). At the same time I replaced all the shocks with new, and the torque link bushings on the rear end. I also changed both the rims and tires to a later amc style wheel. While the rear end was apart I checked the hubs for on each side for excess play or excess run out and all seemed good. Put everything back together and still the same vibration!!!!!!!!!!! The new rear tires are larger which slightly reduced the vibration but it is still there. 

As a final resort I installed new brake drums with no change. I don't know what else to try. I noticed today the drivers side at the back sits about 5/8" higher than the passenger side. Could that couse any issues? The vibration is not noticed through the brake pedal or the steering wheel, it's in the seats. At 55mph if I put the e brake on slightly the vibration gets much worse.

Sorry for the long write up....... I am totally stuck with this and need an expert on these cars.----Darryl

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darrylrae Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/11/2012 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 35	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrylrae Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: '64 Ambassador NEED HELP! Posted: Jul/17/2016 at 6:43pm
	I have a 1964 Rambler Ambassador 2 door hard top. This car was left to me by my father and he always too very good care of it. Since his passing I have had the 327 engine rebuilt from top to bottom, and also the automatic borg warner transmission. For as far back as I can remember the car has had a very slight shake at 55 or so mph. I never thought much of it as I knew that when the engine and trans were rebuilt I was going to give the car a good once over. When the engine was out getting rebuilt I decided I wanted to completely rebuild the front end including new disc brakes. I installed later amc discs and removed everything from the front steering and suspension and detailed it installing again with all new parts. New trunnions, ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, strut rod bushings, ect. The only parts that were not changed in the front was the stock coil springs. Front end is tight and drives great. While I had everything apart I got a new drive shaft from Galvins with the "upgraded" single u-joint, and also had a very good used torque tube I installed (the rubber trunnion looked perfect, thought a slight bend in the torque tube might cause the vibration so I changed it). At the same time I replaced all the shocks with new, and the torque link bushings on the rear end. I also changed both the rims and tires to a later amc style wheel. While the rear end was apart I checked the hubs for on each side for excess play or excess run out and all seemed good. Put everything back together and still the same vibration!!!!!!!!!!! The new rear tires are larger which slightly reduced the vibration but it is still there. As a final resort I installed new brake drums with no change. I don't know what else to try. I noticed today the drivers side at the back sits about 5/8" higher than the passenger side. Could that couse any issues? The vibration is not noticed through the brake pedal or the steering wheel, it's in the seats. At 55mph if I put the e brake on slightly the vibration gets much worse. Sorry for the long write up....... I am totally stuck with this and need an expert on these cars.----Darryl

rocklandrambler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: Nanuet, NY Status: Offline Points: 3953	Post Options Post Reply Quote rocklandrambler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 12:52am
	While not specifically mentioned did you replace the engine and tranny mounts?
	Past AMC's 1974 Hornet X (new) 1975 Gremlin X (new) 1964 Classic 660 Cross Country 1965 American 440-H

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 6:10am
	The 63-66 big cars have rubber mounts on the trans crossmember ends where ti bolts to the body. Only car I know of like that, and those mounts get overlooked. Check them. The CM should be "floating" between two sides of a steel channel that is there to keep the CM from dropping out or moving too far up should the rubber mount fail. Galvin's has new mounts.
	Frank Swygert

darrylrae Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/11/2012 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 35	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrylrae Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 7:26am
	First thanks for taking the time to try and help. If I recall the trans. has two rubber mounts on the side and also the "thrust" mount I think you are referring to. I replaced the trans mounts with new, but not the thrust mounts. When I removed them they seemed to be in perfect shape. The rubber at the end was not cracked or deteriorated. I seem to recall once at a show I noticed someone selling side trans. mounts that were solid steel. The did not have the rubber in them to keep everything "floating". I wonder if this might help correct the issue. This way you eliminate the ability for the drive line harmonics?? Also the engine mounts are new. Thanks-------------Darryl

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 8:14pm
	The side mounts are what I was talking about. There is also a rubber mount between the trans and crossmember. you might want to check it. The thrust bushings are very thin. I've never seen one of those actually go bad, but I bet they do harden over time. Never had a problem from one though. I can only wonder if your driveshaft might be out of balance. The modified shaft inside the tube. Does it still use the carrier bearing in the center? I'd think that Galvin's would have sent a new bearing if so.
	Frank Swygert

darrylrae Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/11/2012 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 35	Post Options Post Reply Quote darrylrae Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/18/2016 at 10:35pm
	Yes both the torque tube was replaced as well as the drive shaft. The dive shaft also has a new hanger bearing and plastic/rubber retaining housing from Galvins. It came pre installed on the driveshaft. The trans. to cross member mount is new as are the cross member to body mounts. The thrust mounts are not bent or damaged and the rubber still looks and feels like new so I reused them. Is there anything to do with lash in the rear end that might cause this? The rear end is quiet but I wonder about a very slightly bent axle or something like that. From my experience normally a bad bearing will growl as it turns and change with speed, this is quiet. Thanks again for your help....... this one really has me stumped!-------------Darryl
	1975 Hornet

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/19/2016 at 6:33am
	AMC had a kit that had a horizontal shock on the right side for vibration issues. It was only installed by dealer at owner request. Don't know if that would help in your case or not. I've only seen one installed that I can remember. It's not in the TSM, there was a Technical Service Bulletin on it. I don't have a copy, maybe someone on here does. Some modern cars use a similar shock, so replicating it shouldn't be an issue.
	Frank Swygert

vinny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837	Post Options Post Reply Quote vinny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/19/2016 at 8:16am
	What about putting the car on jack stands and getting under it with a bar or stethoscope to isolate the problem?

gtoman_us Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: E. Nebraska Status: Offline Points: 3871	Post Options Post Reply Quote gtoman_us Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/19/2016 at 10:32am
	Boy oh boy a tough one. If me I would remove the rear panhard bar and run a test. No aggressive curved roads get up to speed eliminate that as a potential problem How is the triangulation for the rear trusses? I would verify that the rear wheels are running square. The 64's engine and real end are offset and that is why the truss rods are slotted. More of a vehicle tracking issue but since you need to eliminate good time to do it. Lastly it is time to verify that you don not have a problem in the rear. Are you a a twin-grip rear?
	Moderator - Emeritus Used to collect trophies, now I collect gas receipts and put on miles 1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon 1965 GTO 1931 Model A original survivor "Flat Roofs are Cool"